BP-05 Turbo install
This is a write up of how I turboed my BP. There has been a few people who wanted to know how to do this, so here you guys go. I claim no responsibility for what you do to your car. This is a guideline; there are many different ways to do this.
Turbo- VJ-20 from Corksport
GTX exhaust manifold from Corksport
gReddy intercooler piping set- This comes with various bends, couplers and clamps.
Intercooler- Ford probe with relocated end tanks, like a FMIC
BOV- TCC works, this was some generic one, it works and sounds pretty cool, vent to the atmosphere.
Management
Apexi SAFC air/fuel controller
GTX injectors (330cc?)
Walbro intake fuel pump from a 89 RX-7
Jacobs boost master timing controller with boost activated retard
Cartech FMU
gReddy turbo timer
Gauges
Auto meter Boost, pyrometer, air/fuel
Other items
Silicon couplers 90 degree and one extra coupler for IC pipes
Bolts, nuts, screws
Tubing for coolant supply and return
Plastic 3/8 inch T for coolant return
OEM Mazda coolant nipple off block from a 1989 323 GTX (USDM)
OEM Mazda banjo bolt for oil supply from a 1989 323 GTX (USDM)
OEM Mazda oil supply pipe and connector from a 1989 323 GTX (USDM)
Oil return flange from eBay
Oil resistant tubing for oil return
Oil sealant for oil pan
Exhaust-Custom welded from the cast down pipe to the cat with a flex pipe between the DP and cat
ACT Clutch part number ZP2-HDSS from Corksport
NGK iridum plugs
STI plug wires
Before you think about turboing your BP, know what you are getting into. A turboed motor requires a lot more attention. If you treat it right and don’t do stupid things to it, it will be a really fun ride.
First make sure your current motor is in good running condition. Do a compression test, check all seals, and replace things that look like they are old or worn. Basically be sure your engine can take the new loads of a turbo. The BP can take a lot of abuse(which I will get to later) but one that is not in good condition will die on you pretty fast. My motor had 179 psi in all cylinders and ran very very well.
First off, get your turbo and manifold. From here it’s pretty easy to get things and get started.
Unbolt your old manifold and remove it form the car. Before you put the turbo on, unbolt the blind plugs off the block for oil and coolant supply. Take a small screwdriver or something and stick it in the hole to remove any gunk that is in there. When I did this, the coolant al drained out of the engine, as did what oil was above the plug. Bolt in the coolant supply nipple.
I tied the exhaust piping off to the side while I was putting in the turbo. Before I put in the turbo and manifold, I painted the manifold with high temp black paint because they tend to rust and look like crap. I also did this to the cast dump pipe that was sent with my turbo. Find some 8mm bolts to bolt the turbo to the manifold. I fount it easiest to bolt up the turbo to the manifold and get it in from the bottom of the car. It is helpful to have another pair of hands, but I did it by myself. Once you have it in bolt the manifold down.
After you have the turbo and manifold on, get some high temp tubing for coolant supply and connect. Make sure you use some kind of a clamp at both ends. I had a few OEM Mazda clamps lying around that I got from the junkyard so I used them, but anything will work.
For coolant return I put a T on a rubber hose that goes into the water pipe return near the throttle body area. I took off the hose, added an inch of tubing to one end, put the T in the middle, connected the other end to the existing tube, and then put the coolant return tube in. Works well and is pretty simple. Make sure you use clamps here as well.
For oil supply, you will need the OEM banjo bolt and a new oil supply pipe and connector to the turbo housing. The one that was sent with mine was bent and leaked, so I bought a new one. Put the banjo bolt in, and start tightening it into the block. Tighten it until it is snug, but not really tight. Now take the other end and connect it to the turbo housing. Tighten this side down; I believe it was a ½ inch wrench that I used. Now tighten the banjo bolt. (DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN OR YOU WILL HAVE A BROKEN BANJO BOLT WITH THE THREADED PART IN THE BLOCK AND THE HEAD IN YOUR HAND!!!!!!) I over tightened mine and did this. After 2 days trying to mess with it, I took it to a shop; cost me 80 bucks to get it out.
Oil return in pretty simple. Take your flange and eye up about where you want it and mark it. Take into consideration you will need to run a tube from the oil return flange on the turbo to the flange on the oil pan. Unbolt the oil pan. There are a lot of little bolts, all 10 or 12 mm I think. There are 4 on the transmission side that also need to be removed which are very long. Once you have it off, clean up the surfaces. Fine your marks and drill holes for the flange. Mine had the nipple, then two bolt holes. Once you have them drilled, clean ANY and ALL fragments of aluminum from the oil pan. Put some high temp sealant around the flange, be generous. Put more sealant around the oil pan and around the ends where the gasket is (or buy a new set) and bolt it back up. Make sure that your oil supply flange is above the oil level in the oil pan so it can flow freely back into the pan. Bolt everything down evenly with a criss-cross pattern to make sure it seats properly. Take the oil resistant tubing and connect the two flanges using clamps.
Put in your injectors. This is pretty easy and straightforward. I adjusted the VAF 3 clicks counterclockwise to let it idle correctly. Also install your Walbro fuel pump. This is also pretty easy and straightforward
Wire in your AFC or put in your FMU. Right now I am only running the AFC without the FMU. No pinging so far. I also have the timing controller that isn’t wired up, but should get to that eventually. Set timing to 8 degrees BTDC.
Intercooler piping has many possibilities. I used a 90 degree aluminum elbow off the compressor housing with a bracket made up by a machine shop. I also got them to tap a hole for my waste gate source. Take the piping to the passenger side, make a 180 degree turn, then connect to the IC. Then I used a 45 degree bend an 90 degree bend, then it goes up with a piece that was from a probe which fit perfect to the throttle body. Get your BOV welded near the throttle body on this pipe. I used a T off a vacuum nipple on the intake manifold then ran a piece of tubing from there to the BOV. For piping from the compressor inlet to the VAF, I used a 90 degree coupler and a 45 degree bend. The 90* went from the compressor inlet to the 45, then a 2-3” reducer was used to connect the VAF and air filter.
As far as I can remember this is what I have done. Tuning is biatch but the Apexi SAFC is pretty easy to work. When I got the car dynoed I was pining like a mo-fo, so we only got it up to 4000 RPM’s. After that I increased the fuel to 50% more at 3000RPM’s and up and it has helped a lot. Get a good clutch in there to hold the power, my factory one only lasted about a week if that.
Hope this helps for all of those that wanted to know how to turbo their BP.
This is a write up of how I turboed my BP. There has been a few people who wanted to know how to do this, so here you guys go. I claim no responsibility for what you do to your car. This is a guideline; there are many different ways to do this.
Turbo- VJ-20 from Corksport
GTX exhaust manifold from Corksport
gReddy intercooler piping set- This comes with various bends, couplers and clamps.
Intercooler- Ford probe with relocated end tanks, like a FMIC
BOV- TCC works, this was some generic one, it works and sounds pretty cool, vent to the atmosphere.
Management
Apexi SAFC air/fuel controller
GTX injectors (330cc?)
Walbro intake fuel pump from a 89 RX-7
Jacobs boost master timing controller with boost activated retard
Cartech FMU
gReddy turbo timer
Gauges
Auto meter Boost, pyrometer, air/fuel
Other items
Silicon couplers 90 degree and one extra coupler for IC pipes
Bolts, nuts, screws
Tubing for coolant supply and return
Plastic 3/8 inch T for coolant return
OEM Mazda coolant nipple off block from a 1989 323 GTX (USDM)
OEM Mazda banjo bolt for oil supply from a 1989 323 GTX (USDM)
OEM Mazda oil supply pipe and connector from a 1989 323 GTX (USDM)
Oil return flange from eBay
Oil resistant tubing for oil return
Oil sealant for oil pan
Exhaust-Custom welded from the cast down pipe to the cat with a flex pipe between the DP and cat
ACT Clutch part number ZP2-HDSS from Corksport
NGK iridum plugs
STI plug wires
Before you think about turboing your BP, know what you are getting into. A turboed motor requires a lot more attention. If you treat it right and don’t do stupid things to it, it will be a really fun ride.
First make sure your current motor is in good running condition. Do a compression test, check all seals, and replace things that look like they are old or worn. Basically be sure your engine can take the new loads of a turbo. The BP can take a lot of abuse(which I will get to later) but one that is not in good condition will die on you pretty fast. My motor had 179 psi in all cylinders and ran very very well.
First off, get your turbo and manifold. From here it’s pretty easy to get things and get started.
Unbolt your old manifold and remove it form the car. Before you put the turbo on, unbolt the blind plugs off the block for oil and coolant supply. Take a small screwdriver or something and stick it in the hole to remove any gunk that is in there. When I did this, the coolant al drained out of the engine, as did what oil was above the plug. Bolt in the coolant supply nipple.
I tied the exhaust piping off to the side while I was putting in the turbo. Before I put in the turbo and manifold, I painted the manifold with high temp black paint because they tend to rust and look like crap. I also did this to the cast dump pipe that was sent with my turbo. Find some 8mm bolts to bolt the turbo to the manifold. I fount it easiest to bolt up the turbo to the manifold and get it in from the bottom of the car. It is helpful to have another pair of hands, but I did it by myself. Once you have it in bolt the manifold down.
After you have the turbo and manifold on, get some high temp tubing for coolant supply and connect. Make sure you use some kind of a clamp at both ends. I had a few OEM Mazda clamps lying around that I got from the junkyard so I used them, but anything will work.
For coolant return I put a T on a rubber hose that goes into the water pipe return near the throttle body area. I took off the hose, added an inch of tubing to one end, put the T in the middle, connected the other end to the existing tube, and then put the coolant return tube in. Works well and is pretty simple. Make sure you use clamps here as well.
For oil supply, you will need the OEM banjo bolt and a new oil supply pipe and connector to the turbo housing. The one that was sent with mine was bent and leaked, so I bought a new one. Put the banjo bolt in, and start tightening it into the block. Tighten it until it is snug, but not really tight. Now take the other end and connect it to the turbo housing. Tighten this side down; I believe it was a ½ inch wrench that I used. Now tighten the banjo bolt. (DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN OR YOU WILL HAVE A BROKEN BANJO BOLT WITH THE THREADED PART IN THE BLOCK AND THE HEAD IN YOUR HAND!!!!!!) I over tightened mine and did this. After 2 days trying to mess with it, I took it to a shop; cost me 80 bucks to get it out.
Oil return in pretty simple. Take your flange and eye up about where you want it and mark it. Take into consideration you will need to run a tube from the oil return flange on the turbo to the flange on the oil pan. Unbolt the oil pan. There are a lot of little bolts, all 10 or 12 mm I think. There are 4 on the transmission side that also need to be removed which are very long. Once you have it off, clean up the surfaces. Fine your marks and drill holes for the flange. Mine had the nipple, then two bolt holes. Once you have them drilled, clean ANY and ALL fragments of aluminum from the oil pan. Put some high temp sealant around the flange, be generous. Put more sealant around the oil pan and around the ends where the gasket is (or buy a new set) and bolt it back up. Make sure that your oil supply flange is above the oil level in the oil pan so it can flow freely back into the pan. Bolt everything down evenly with a criss-cross pattern to make sure it seats properly. Take the oil resistant tubing and connect the two flanges using clamps.
Put in your injectors. This is pretty easy and straightforward. I adjusted the VAF 3 clicks counterclockwise to let it idle correctly. Also install your Walbro fuel pump. This is also pretty easy and straightforward
Wire in your AFC or put in your FMU. Right now I am only running the AFC without the FMU. No pinging so far. I also have the timing controller that isn’t wired up, but should get to that eventually. Set timing to 8 degrees BTDC.
Intercooler piping has many possibilities. I used a 90 degree aluminum elbow off the compressor housing with a bracket made up by a machine shop. I also got them to tap a hole for my waste gate source. Take the piping to the passenger side, make a 180 degree turn, then connect to the IC. Then I used a 45 degree bend an 90 degree bend, then it goes up with a piece that was from a probe which fit perfect to the throttle body. Get your BOV welded near the throttle body on this pipe. I used a T off a vacuum nipple on the intake manifold then ran a piece of tubing from there to the BOV. For piping from the compressor inlet to the VAF, I used a 90 degree coupler and a 45 degree bend. The 90* went from the compressor inlet to the 45, then a 2-3” reducer was used to connect the VAF and air filter.
As far as I can remember this is what I have done. Tuning is biatch but the Apexi SAFC is pretty easy to work. When I got the car dynoed I was pining like a mo-fo, so we only got it up to 4000 RPM’s. After that I increased the fuel to 50% more at 3000RPM’s and up and it has helped a lot. Get a good clutch in there to hold the power, my factory one only lasted about a week if that.
Hope this helps for all of those that wanted to know how to turbo their BP.
I miss the protege.
Comment