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Roadrace EGT Touring Car
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Dan, I need to re-list it for sale---I tryed to find the old adds and they're gone...if you visit www.piercemotorsports.com and go to the roadrace section, you can see it under PTE escort. A lot has been done including the BPT, some underbody work, but it'll give you an idea. PM if your interested further and I'll get you some more info.sigpicwww.piercemotorsports.com www.piercemotorsport.com Like us on facebook http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/p...91292610897146
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Thanks everyone!!! I got that hood from Rob at zxtuner.com in California---I believe he calls it the invader style and it's carbon fiber/fiberglass.sigpicwww.piercemotorsports.com www.piercemotorsport.com Like us on facebook http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/p...91292610897146
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I've got brakes!!! Wilwood calipers with 12 3/4" rotors for the front---not sure about the back yet-also cool upper motor mount by Jon Rood!
sigpicwww.piercemotorsports.com www.piercemotorsport.com Like us on facebook http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/p...91292610897146
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Originally posted by SgtRauksauff View PostIs that motormount a hand-built unit, or pieced together from something else?
I like the fact that it's small and compact and not humungous like the stock ones.
What size rims are you planning on running with the 12.75" rotors?
--sarge
--FerdiIf you can't differentiate between brake and break, you should go back to school
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Miscellaneous Pics of Turbo Protege Build
Big Front Brake Install using Wilwood Calipers
Factory Service Manuals and Familia Brochures - PDF
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Not sure if someone else had some for sale---I bought them from HorsePower Freaks which got them through Revolution Brake. Had a ton of calls with them to get it right (hopefully!!) and took forever. Yeah Jon makes those mounts and has tested them in his rallycar---they're sexy and tough!!
I'm going to run a 17x10 with a 265x45or40x17 Hoosier and a 17x8 with the Nittos for the USTCC races. The big tires and increased HP is why the stock brakes are now inadequate---at the last 12 hour race we cracked rotors bad.sigpicwww.piercemotorsports.com www.piercemotorsport.com Like us on facebook http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/p...91292610897146
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cheebus!! freaken subbin for this ho, great wok thus far...freaken sex w/o wheelsOriginally posted by 90prtegehave you heard a yaris drive by you??? it says immmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmgayyyyyyyyy!!!!Originally posted by TurproFk the family. Drugs and hookers take priority first
bpt323: broom break
CRZbrussian: that sux
CRZbrussian: get swifer wet
CRZbrussian: ****s aluminum
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How long do you think it takes before the rotor's getting hot enough to start cracking? And, what sort of cooling were you doing to the rotors?
I've never quite got cracked rotors yet, but did manage to set my pads on fire once, which boiled my wheel bearings and toasted them but good. This was only after about 20 minutes at Blackhawk farms, AFter the wagon got its GTX turbo engine, but before I started using Hawk pads. And it seems like I'm always fighting boiling fluid and a soft pedal anymore. I'm trying to figure out if I should even bother with trying to make some 28mm thick toyota rotors with big vents work under my 15" rims, or if I should just sell my SSR's, and go bigger right off the bat.
I'm enjoying your experience in building this car for some serious racing, it's the little subtle details that help!
--sarge
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Thanks Sarge...Not sure when they started cracking at the 12 hour---but the turbo making an extra 40hp over the NA motor was the culprit. The event before it rained and the event before that the transfer pump let go only a few hours in so we don't have good data. We don't get brake fade---we run Motul and flush the system every event. I've used hawk blue's for the short-less demanding tracks and the rears actually have more bias when I do that. For the 12/25 hour events we have to run the Porterfield endurance compound (or the Raysbestos which chews up rotors---actually sparked when we bed them in!!!) up front with the Hawk HPS street pads out back. They last 25 hours and not much more---the braking is not as good/fast, but it's better than having to do a pad change (or two)...
We had very little air coming off the bottom of the front diffuser into a ramp throwing it at the caliper. I got big into aero last year and blocked off all the front openings until it started to run hotter, and even then pulled the fan off the thing and started looking for ways to get the underhood air to flow over the car better. This new project will have small brake ducts and a lot of diffuser plates in front of the engine to get the air out efficiently.sigpicwww.piercemotorsports.com www.piercemotorsport.com Like us on facebook http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/p...91292610897146
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We had a couple of our sports car club meetings at Kelly-Moss, the Porsche Race shop, here in Madison a couple times. They had a 911 GT1 up on a lift, and I took a stroll underneath it. Frickin' smooth from front to back, with a little NACA duct for the fuel line where it did a 90° s-bend. For brake cooling, they had little plastic channels attached to the bottom/front side of the LCA's. air would be directed along this channel, right to the center of the rotor, just under the caliper. The cool thing is, it's just plastic, that's probably dirt cheap to extrude, and gets awesome gains in brake cooling. Interesting thing, the same exact pieces were on the road-going GT3 cars. (I've got a friend that works at the porsche dealer in town, and get to examine some sweet cars from time to time). The EVO 8's and 9's also had little detachable plastic bits that clipped onto the front of the LCA for brake cooling, but they tend to break off if the drivers go over curbing and such. Never heard how well the Porsche channels stick, but I'm betting pretty darned good if it's on the GT3, and stays for the GT1.
--sarge
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