I don't remember how I did it... Jammed the -AN hose onto the filter with a clamp and the used -AN stuff for the rest? Sorcery?
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Concealer404's KLZEscort thread
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Originally posted by atomicEGT View PostI don't remember how I did it... Jammed the -AN hose onto the filter with a clamp and the used -AN stuff for the rest? Sorcery?
Originally posted by tehmonkay View PostYou could've gone with a protege fuel tank instead
Originally posted by atomicEGT View Postor, you know, just the sending unit.
Originally posted by tehmonkay View PostIs the protege one locking ring? I thought it used screws.
Originally posted by atomicEGT View Postoh yeah the Protege has a metal tank or something, doesn't it?
Originally posted by 94greenpro View Postya protege sending unit no worky on ford plastic tank
Originally posted by 94greenpro View Postunless you use tones of silicon and only fill up with 20 bucks, ask how i know
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Bolted down catch can. It's now pretty much structural to the car.
Made linkage-y cable-y goodness. No, this stuff isn't the prettiest, but i'll explain what was going on later.
Made a bracket, retained the factory throttle cable with everything on it.
Now this might start to make sense. Yes, i know there's a throttle cam on the front bank, but that was a dumb way to do it, and i can't believe none of the previous 2 owners of this setup didn't figure this out.
Have a fuzzy picture of a 99.9% complete engine bay.
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Alright, the throttle cable/linkage issue.
When i got the throttle bodies, they were set up to pull on the cam on the "forward" bank. See picture.
ITB 1 by concealer404, on Flickr
This may have worked somewhat easily on a RWD car, i don't know. (These are off of "The KLiata.") There's no way this was going to work effectively on a FWD car without making a new throttle cable, and on top of that, the cam is too small, so i'd only have about 2/3rds of my original pedal travel. That, combined with a crazy fast-revving n/a motor making 3x the power of the stock motor, with street manners that are going to be questionable at best in the first place, would end up with something that would be pretty much undriveable on the street.
Starting thinking about math things.
Obviously, putting a bigger cam on the forward bank would have helped things, IF i could have gotten the cable up there easily. (It was doable, but not in a great way.) Then realized i could apply the same theory, but directly to the Kinsler cam sitting on the center post, ASSuming there was enough clearance for a bracket that went out far enough.
Lucked out. Made the bracket as "long" as possible, and it clears the back bank with about 2-3mm to spare, EXACTLY at factory pedal travel, opens and closes the throttles 100%. (Well... slightly past full open, but that can be adjusted out.) Used a "strap" that was sent with the throttles to make the retaining clip portion for the factory cable's rubber bushing/adjustment point. This will also increase rigidity between the two banks and prevent flexing.
Was a long day of stupid fiddly work, but it worked out. It isn't the prettiest thing in the world, but it's 100% functional and in no danger of breaking.
Almost done!!!!
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Originally posted by crazycanadian View PostHave you tested how the peddle feels with that set up?? Looking at it, I would be worried about the resistance in the peddle feeling consistant?
Yep! It's completely linear. That said, i AM going to Fastenal today (have to pick up some bins i ordered, and get a new bolt for one of the endlinks), and i'll see if they have a single spring that would give the appropriate resistance.
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Originally posted by concealer404 View Postcombined with a crazy fast-revving n/a motor making 3x the power of the stock motor~PaTricK~
-Current car's-
~ 92 Probe GT Turbo, 90 FE3 Turbo 626GT hatch, 97 KL mtx 626, 05 Mazda6, 09 Kia Sportage V6~
What are you driving?
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Originally posted by monoxidechild View PostYour claiming your going to make 600hp n/a out of this? I dont see that possible in anyones hands considering the stock KLZE is 200hp.
Give me a little credit, son.
But what's really going to happen is that this motor is going to eat **** on the dyno when it's being tuned and i'll get to start all over again, and revert back to a BP, maybe with a Kraftwerks C38 in a fit of rage.Last edited by concealer404; 12-28-2012, 11:41 AM.
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