Why does this sound like the Disty is almost 180* out? I know its not really possible, but it almost sounds like a Cam issue, or timing, almost as if the disty isn't clocked right in the cam?
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Originally posted by farcryNZ View Post........what If the cam belt slipped so the missing tooth is not in the correct place? (I really don't know anything, just trying to think outside the box....
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Originally posted by FamiliaGT View PostWhy does this sound like the Disty is almost 180* out? I know its not really possible, but it almost sounds like a Cam issue, or timing, almost as if the disty isn't clocked right in the cam?
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care to take a picture of the inside of the disty showing the rotor placement while the motor is at TDC (#1 piston) and then your spark plug wire orientation---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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Originally posted by FE3-323 View Postcare to take a picture of the inside of the disty showing the rotor placement while the motor is at TDC (#1 piston) and then your spark plug wire orientation
Sent from my m8wl using TapatalkLast edited by Dixie94Pro; 12-14-2015, 10:34 PM.ClubProtege
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Reading the hole thing again, is anyone else of the opinion that if it worked, then it didn't, and none of your dizzys solve the problem that it may not be that?
Do you have any way of testing the ecu? Perhaps someone can plug it into their car to prove it works? I kinda wonder was the deal too good to be true...?
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He said he tried the BP10 ECU with no change.
One thing about the VAF is that adjusting it so that your idle is at around 14 AFR will not necessarily make the WOT correct.
When I was running my N/A BP setup with the U/K hybrid VAF if I adjusted the A/F ratio till I had my WOT AFR where I wanted and it had good power, then it did not want to idle and would almost always stall or have hiccups. To fix this problem, I had to adjust the idle screw in the VAF to get the idle mixture correct or at least get the car where it would behave while idling and no longer stall out. Adjusting the idle mixture will not affect the WOT mixture.
I dont know if it will fix your issue but its something that might be worth looking into.92 Mazda MX3 GS> For sale, $1750 OBO
94 Escort wagon--BP swap coming, VF10 Turbo, COP, EVO ECU, 03 ZX2 front end conversion
"Hold yourself accountable before you are held accountable"
EV14 330cc@3Bar injector kits available.
EV14 GT500 injector kits available for the BP. 610cc@3Bar.
EV14 925cc@3Bar injector kits available
BP Forged H beam rods available now
KL Forged H beam rods available now
K8/KF Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
FS Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
F2 Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
FE3 Forged H beam rods coming soon
Mitsubishi 3.8 MIVEC rods coming soon
Aluminum CAS/Distributor caps
BP oil jet eliminators
EV14 fuel rail spacers
More stuff coming soon.......
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Originally posted by farcryNZ View PostReading the hole thing again, is anyone else of the opinion that if it worked, then it didn't, and none of your dizzys solve the problem that it may not be that?
Do you have any way of testing the ecu? Perhaps someone can plug it into their car to prove it works? I kinda wonder was the deal too good to be true...?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Originally posted by 300zxrb26dett View PostHe said he tried the BP10 ECU with no change.
One thing about the VAF is that adjusting it so that your idle is at around 14 AFR will not necessarily make the WOT correct.
When I was running my N/A BP setup with the U/K hybrid VAF if I adjusted the A/F ratio till I had my WOT AFR where I wanted and it had good power, then it did not want to idle and would almost always stall or have hiccups. To fix this problem, I had to adjust the idle screw in the VAF to get the idle mixture correct or at least get the car where it would behave while idling and no longer stall out. Adjusting the idle mixture will not affect the WOT mixture.
I dont know if it will fix your issue but its something that might be worth looking into.
I've got some down time while I wait on some parts to get here... So I decided it'd be a good time to fill my mounts.... Looks like it might make a bit of difference... :D
I decided to paint the parts that I pull off for some rust protection (not that it's much to worry about around here) and to make them look better. After I painted one thing I started pulling more things off and painting them (don't worry... nothing that's used as a ground).
Then I noticed not only how grimy the engine bay is, but how nice it looks underneath the grime... I started scrubbing with a brush, some soap, and some water. I've never been one to care how anything looks if it's functional... But dang... This cleaning thing is addicting. Now I want to take everything off and clean it....
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I took my motor mounts off and filled them. Got them put back on last night.
My auto TB with 4 wire TPS came in today (thanks 1st Gen)!!
Got a 110A alternator in the mail today, too.
Ready to put those on tonight.
My exhaust goodies will be here Wednesday. I'm ready to get it plumbed and see how it sounds! [emoji106]
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Originally posted by Pox View PostIs this thing running right yet? I feel like I missed that part. Or still having issues starting?
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Dang. I drove around the block and it's still bucking like I have a leak somewhere. I checked all my piping last night and found none. This is frustrating.
I can kind of ride the clutch... But when there's load on it, it starts bucking (or stuttering) and won't go anywhere
Sent from my m8wl using TapatalkLast edited by Dixie94Pro; 12-23-2015, 07:20 PM.ClubProtege
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