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92 DX A/C compressor rattles at idle only

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    #1

    92 DX A/C compressor rattles at idle only

    Hi,

    I just charged up my AC system on my car which has been retrofitted to R-134.

    I do not have a gauge, but the system was evacuated so I put in about 2 cans of freon for a total of about 24 oz.

    The AC cools fine while driving, but at idle the compressor rattles loudly and does not cool at all.

    Yes, the compressor has oil.

    The compressor acts the same way whether or not I have 12 oz of freon or 24.

    I don't know if this is all tied into my other overheating post, but it can't fully be tied to it because it consistently and immediately rattles at idle. Putting the gas up to what feels to be even 200 RPM makes the rattle go away, and the air conditioning blows cool again.

    Yes, I am positive that it is the air conditioning compressor as the rattling starts at idle when the ac switch is pressed.

    Thank you in advance for any input.
    93 EGT 5M, Bimini Blue

    132k miles, DD only

    0w20, EG Fram Oil Filter for Probe 2.5L, Magnetic Drain Plug, ebay cone filter, 03 Protege Rotors, moog sway bar end-links on rear sway bar, mx3 seats, Power Sunroof, Miata Valve Cover Bolts, Gatorback Belts, Timing *14 on 87 Oct, Autolite 3924 @ .043 - 35 mpg at 67 mph (95% highway driving) with A/C and headlights on. Untested for fuel economy: Sylvania EcoBright 9004, .717 5th gear with D6 ATF, NGK wires, 195/65/15 Kumho LRR 4 wire tps

    Former Car: 92 Protege DX 5 spd.
    Tags: None
    #2
    sure did, thanks
    93 EGT 5M, Bimini Blue

    132k miles, DD only

    0w20, EG Fram Oil Filter for Probe 2.5L, Magnetic Drain Plug, ebay cone filter, 03 Protege Rotors, moog sway bar end-links on rear sway bar, mx3 seats, Power Sunroof, Miata Valve Cover Bolts, Gatorback Belts, Timing *14 on 87 Oct, Autolite 3924 @ .043 - 35 mpg at 67 mph (95% highway driving) with A/C and headlights on. Untested for fuel economy: Sylvania EcoBright 9004, .717 5th gear with D6 ATF, NGK wires, 195/65/15 Kumho LRR 4 wire tps

    Former Car: 92 Protege DX 5 spd.

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by TheMAN
      sounds like the compressor is starting to tear itself apart


      maybe it wants another home
      93 EGT 5M, Bimini Blue

      132k miles, DD only

      0w20, EG Fram Oil Filter for Probe 2.5L, Magnetic Drain Plug, ebay cone filter, 03 Protege Rotors, moog sway bar end-links on rear sway bar, mx3 seats, Power Sunroof, Miata Valve Cover Bolts, Gatorback Belts, Timing *14 on 87 Oct, Autolite 3924 @ .043 - 35 mpg at 67 mph (95% highway driving) with A/C and headlights on. Untested for fuel economy: Sylvania EcoBright 9004, .717 5th gear with D6 ATF, NGK wires, 195/65/15 Kumho LRR 4 wire tps

      Former Car: 92 Protege DX 5 spd.

      Comment

        #4
        Maybe we could revisit this thread again as you all have helped me solve my overheating problem. The rattle at idle is still present at idle with the AC on.

        The AC also does not cool at idle.

        Once I raise the rpm even slightly if I am sitting at a light it begins to cool beautiful.

        I don't believe that this is the only protege out there that does this, in fact I saw someone with a first generation LX backing in and out of a parking space the other day and heard the exact same noise. As the person gave it gas, it went away.

        Any thoughts?
        93 EGT 5M, Bimini Blue

        132k miles, DD only

        0w20, EG Fram Oil Filter for Probe 2.5L, Magnetic Drain Plug, ebay cone filter, 03 Protege Rotors, moog sway bar end-links on rear sway bar, mx3 seats, Power Sunroof, Miata Valve Cover Bolts, Gatorback Belts, Timing *14 on 87 Oct, Autolite 3924 @ .043 - 35 mpg at 67 mph (95% highway driving) with A/C and headlights on. Untested for fuel economy: Sylvania EcoBright 9004, .717 5th gear with D6 ATF, NGK wires, 195/65/15 Kumho LRR 4 wire tps

        Former Car: 92 Protege DX 5 spd.

        Comment

          #5
          Mine did the same thing for a little while... I would guess that Ediwn's right about it tearing itself apart. If the bearings or clutch system or whatever goes out then it would slip and not do quite as good a job.

          Comment

            #6
            did you end up changing the compressor out due to this, or did it stop on its' own?

            thanks
            93 EGT 5M, Bimini Blue

            132k miles, DD only

            0w20, EG Fram Oil Filter for Probe 2.5L, Magnetic Drain Plug, ebay cone filter, 03 Protege Rotors, moog sway bar end-links on rear sway bar, mx3 seats, Power Sunroof, Miata Valve Cover Bolts, Gatorback Belts, Timing *14 on 87 Oct, Autolite 3924 @ .043 - 35 mpg at 67 mph (95% highway driving) with A/C and headlights on. Untested for fuel economy: Sylvania EcoBright 9004, .717 5th gear with D6 ATF, NGK wires, 195/65/15 Kumho LRR 4 wire tps

            Former Car: 92 Protege DX 5 spd.

            Comment

              #7
              It seems to have stopped on its own... I was told in another thread that if I haven't used the AC for a long time it would need to be broken in again. I bought the car in the middle of winter. The AC didn't blow very cold when I got it, so I doubt the previous owners had used it much. I got it recharged a few weeks ago, and it has slowly worked its problems out since then, and now it blows very cold and doesn't make noise.

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by jnorion
                It seems to have stopped on its own... I was told in another thread that if I haven't used the AC for a long time it would need to be broken in again. I bought the car in the middle of winter. The AC didn't blow very cold when I got it, so I doubt the previous owners had used it much. I got it recharged a few weeks ago, and it has slowly worked its problems out since then, and now it blows very cold and doesn't make noise.
                hmmm, well maybe mine will do the same thing, hope it doesn't blow up before then!

                Just weird how there is no noise if you give it any gas at all, but rattles like all heck at idle.

                Thanks for your time.
                93 EGT 5M, Bimini Blue

                132k miles, DD only

                0w20, EG Fram Oil Filter for Probe 2.5L, Magnetic Drain Plug, ebay cone filter, 03 Protege Rotors, moog sway bar end-links on rear sway bar, mx3 seats, Power Sunroof, Miata Valve Cover Bolts, Gatorback Belts, Timing *14 on 87 Oct, Autolite 3924 @ .043 - 35 mpg at 67 mph (95% highway driving) with A/C and headlights on. Untested for fuel economy: Sylvania EcoBright 9004, .717 5th gear with D6 ATF, NGK wires, 195/65/15 Kumho LRR 4 wire tps

                Former Car: 92 Protege DX 5 spd.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Mine took about two weeks, maybe a little more.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    he he mine has been like this for over 2 months
                    93 EGT 5M, Bimini Blue

                    132k miles, DD only

                    0w20, EG Fram Oil Filter for Probe 2.5L, Magnetic Drain Plug, ebay cone filter, 03 Protege Rotors, moog sway bar end-links on rear sway bar, mx3 seats, Power Sunroof, Miata Valve Cover Bolts, Gatorback Belts, Timing *14 on 87 Oct, Autolite 3924 @ .043 - 35 mpg at 67 mph (95% highway driving) with A/C and headlights on. Untested for fuel economy: Sylvania EcoBright 9004, .717 5th gear with D6 ATF, NGK wires, 195/65/15 Kumho LRR 4 wire tps

                    Former Car: 92 Protege DX 5 spd.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      mine did the same thing, i adjusted the idle to make it run higher and it went away, maybe not what is wrong with yours.

                      from previous cars i noticed the a/c wouldn't cool at idle because the refrigerant level was low, on my newest protege the system has a complete charge and it cools nicely at an idle.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        bp18protege I think that you hit the nail on the head as far as idle is concerned. I looked at the throttle stop this morning on my car and if it was to be moved just a little bit, the throttle would rest at a position where the ac would stop rattling and begin cooling. However this looks to be a different adjustment, not the screw at the top of the throttle body. (even when that is fully loosened I cannot get the car to idle high enough to stop that rattle) There is something else down there held by two nuts that looks adjustable to. If I could get that to come up a tiny bit I'll have AC!

                        Any ideas?

                        I might just start a new post on adjusting idle.

                        It looks like the area at the bottom of the actuator rod by the throttle stop could be moved a tiny bit....

                        Maybe this is all tied to the give it some gas and it stops overheating to problem?
                        Last edited by dx92beater; 08-14-2005, 08:09 AM.
                        93 EGT 5M, Bimini Blue

                        132k miles, DD only

                        0w20, EG Fram Oil Filter for Probe 2.5L, Magnetic Drain Plug, ebay cone filter, 03 Protege Rotors, moog sway bar end-links on rear sway bar, mx3 seats, Power Sunroof, Miata Valve Cover Bolts, Gatorback Belts, Timing *14 on 87 Oct, Autolite 3924 @ .043 - 35 mpg at 67 mph (95% highway driving) with A/C and headlights on. Untested for fuel economy: Sylvania EcoBright 9004, .717 5th gear with D6 ATF, NGK wires, 195/65/15 Kumho LRR 4 wire tps

                        Former Car: 92 Protege DX 5 spd.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Adjusting the idle might be a band-aid fix but there's a bigger problem going on somewhere. It's worth doing until you have time or money to do it right, but I wouldn't suggest leaving it that way and ignoring everything else.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by jnorion
                            Adjusting the idle might be a band-aid fix but there's a bigger problem going on somewhere. It's worth doing until you have time or money to do it right, but I wouldn't suggest leaving it that way and ignoring everything else.

                            I agree with you jnorion I was out 4 hrs today and nearly got heat stroke. I raised the idle and while the ac blew cold, the car overheated very quickly.
                            93 EGT 5M, Bimini Blue

                            132k miles, DD only

                            0w20, EG Fram Oil Filter for Probe 2.5L, Magnetic Drain Plug, ebay cone filter, 03 Protege Rotors, moog sway bar end-links on rear sway bar, mx3 seats, Power Sunroof, Miata Valve Cover Bolts, Gatorback Belts, Timing *14 on 87 Oct, Autolite 3924 @ .043 - 35 mpg at 67 mph (95% highway driving) with A/C and headlights on. Untested for fuel economy: Sylvania EcoBright 9004, .717 5th gear with D6 ATF, NGK wires, 195/65/15 Kumho LRR 4 wire tps

                            Former Car: 92 Protege DX 5 spd.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              guess what? your compressor is not in any condition to use 134, its 15 years old and the rattling bearings are telling you to replace it! 134 has a higher head pressure and the old compressors tend to give out when you retrofit them. 134 systems in newer cars are made with better fans to push/pull air across the condenser because the 134 doesn't cool as well at idle. what kind of oil did you put in when you did the retrofit? make sure you use Ester oil and not the Pag stuff for GM cars.

                              Comment

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