i want to boost

[protouser]

hey everyone i wanted to get a roundabout figure on how much it would cost to boost a lx 93. something streetable not to radical but something fun, mabey 8 to 10 lbs? im talking backyard engineering stuff i have a non existant budget and wanted to know if it were dooable...

[323Foreword]

I've spent $700 so far on my setup.

I'm running 14b turbo off 90' eclispe at 9psi. I got the turbo first with a external wastegate for $200. My manifold is custom made it cost me $180 to get made with 2 1/2 downpipe. Then gauges,oil lines, fuel pump, injectors regulator, intercooler, piping........

Little by little it adds up.

[Marc93lx]

I've said it before, I'll say it again. Don't cheap out on a turbo setup. Sure, you can do it with junkyard and cheap parts, but it won't be very reliable. In the end you will end up spending the same amount of money fixing or replacing parts anyhow. Expect to pay around 2-3k for a good reliable setup. People with non-existant budgets should not boost their cars. I say this for several reasons. First, IT'S NOT CHEAP TO TURBO A CAR! Furthermore, with a cheap forced induction setup, **** BREAKS. If you spend more on good quality products, and come up with a nice setup, you will be less likely to break something. This won't exempt you from breaking **** though. Something can always go wrong even with the most expensive setup and tons of tuning. That's just my opinion on the subject, take it as you will.

I wrote an article for Dave for the full website, which he has yet to utilize, so i'll post it here to further illustrate my point:

BPT Swap - What do I need for a good, reliable setup?
By: Marc Stearman

When considering a BPT swap, most people will ask the question; "What are the minimal requirements to just get the motor in and running"? What these people do not realize is that in the long run, (In my opinion) it's better to spend a little more money and go beyond the minimal. Now this does not mean that you have to spend more money for a better, more reliable setup, it's just HIGHLY reccomended.

The first thing you must realize is that going the forced induction route WILL NOT BE CHEAP! Everybody always overlooks this fact. You should expect to spend some money, so start saving your pennies. The more money you set aside for this swap, the better. I say this for several reasons. For one it allows you to buy better, more reliable parts for the motor. Furthermore you should consider replacing all of the gaskets, seals, belts, etc on the motor before you install it. The history of these imported motors is usually unknown, therefore the replacement of said items is a very, very good idea. You should also have money set aside for dyno tuning once the motor is in. This is a crucial step in assuring that your motor is running in tip top shape and will help you to get the most extended performance from the motor. Plus you can post up bragging rights with your killer numbers. Lastly you need to plan for disaster. With the recent influx of destroyed BPT's, it is a good idea to have some money available to fall back on in the event of a catastrophic failure of your precious motor. That is, of course, unless you like riding a bike everywhere. Im not saying that you will have problems with your motor, it could last forever, but you need to prepare for the possibility that it will happpen.

Now, before I proceed to my suggested BPT swap list, let me first pass along my best advice and reccomended first step to those considering this swap. That is; RESEARCH, RESEARCH, RESEARCH! I can't stress this enough. Read absolutely everything you can about this swap before you attempt it. Find out what problems other people had, what snags you can expect to run into, important steps you need to know, etc. I won't be covering those issues here, so be sure to do your homework. With that said lets move onto my suggested list of items needed to make this swap happen in a beautiful way. If you would like to take a look at the list I compiled for myself for my GTR swap, look at this thread: http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13566 . Most of what I list here will be from that list. Keep in mind that this is just a "reccomended" list. Not all of it is required, just re-read what I said above. I feel it best to buy everything first, then commence on the swap once you have it all rather than "upgrade later down the road".

-GTX/GTR Motor
-Engine wiring harness appropriate to the engine you have
-ECU appropriate to the engine you have (BP-26 for gtx, BP-C8 for gtr)
-VAF appropriate to the engine you have (The RX7 vaf is a good alternative if you can't find the gtx/gtr units)
-Upgraded fuel pump (most people use the unit made by Walbro for the RX7)
-Front Mount Intercooler
-Intercooler piping and silicone couplers 2.25" - 2.5"
-Performance aftermarket clutch
-Blow off valve
-Boost controller
-Rising rate fuel pressure regulator
-MSD Boost retard unit
-2.5" - 3" Exhaust/Downpipe (2.5 is reccomended gtx and 3 for gtr, but it's really up to you. Id go 3" if you see an upgrade in the future)
-Gauges (Boost and EGT are definates, it's really up to you after that)
-Upgraded radiator
-Upgraded radiator fan
-MSD Blaster coil
-Decent set of spark plug wires

You should go to your local Mazda Dealership and order yourself a headset. It will come with everything you need to refurbish the head including a new headgasket. This will probably cost you somewhere in the neighborhood of $200 +/-, but it will be well worth every penny. Since you will be removing the head and replacing the headgasket, a new set of head studs is needed. I would suggest picking up a set from ARP, their products are very nice. Following is a list of all the other maintenance items that you should consider replacing that are not included in the headset. This is where it can start to get a little costly, but as I said every part listed is well worth every penny.

-Water pump
-Oil pump and pickup tube
-Timing belt
-Timing belt tensioner spring
-Idler pully
-Altenator belt
-Power steering belt
-Front main seal
-Rear main seal
-Distributor cap
-Distributor rotor
-NGK Spark plugs
-Thermostat
-O2 Sensor
-Oil filter (I reccomend either OEM or Mobil1)
-PCV Vlave
-Water temperature sensor
-Upper and Lower radiator hoses

Next are a few items that are by no means required nor are they "highly reccomended" like the other items I listed, however you might consider them. These are strictly reccomended upgrades you can do.

-Standalone Engine Management System such as Haltech or Microtec
-Apexi SAFC II (cheaper alternative to EMS, however it's capeabilities are limited compared to the Haltech or Microtec)
-Greddy E-Manage (More expensive alternative to the Apexi unit, but cheaper than Haltech. The E-Manage gives you more control as compared to the Apexi unit)
Upgraded fuel injectors (what "cc" you get is up to you based on how much boost you want to run)
-Vishnu performance high volume fuel rail
-Lightweight aluminum flywheel
-NA BP head. The NA head flows much nicer than the BPT head. Alot of people swap them out for eachother. Make sure to swap over the cams and lifters if your a gtx person, and for you gtr guru's swap over all of the internals so you keep the sodium filled valves. You might also consider having some port and polish/valve work done to the head, but it's not required.

Now if you feel a bit more eccentric and want to go all out on your setup, there are a few more things you can do. Like the things I listed just above, you in no way have to do this, but it will be way cool. Weisco makes a very nice set of forged turbo pistons. They will require the block to be bored out a little bit so expect machining costs. While the block is there, have them dip it and check the crankshaft and bearing clearances to make sure everything is in tip top shape. You might also consider either having the rods shotpeened or upgrading to a nicer set. You can choose between a couple sets on www.flyinmiata.com. They also sell the Weisco pistons.

That pretty much concludes my reccomended swap list. This guide follows my basic philosophy of "If Im going to do this, Im going to do it good and all at once". I know that my list racks up quite a bill, but I honestly believe you will get the most out of your motor if you follow my suggestions. If anything, at least do everything on the maintenance list. I feel those are the most important.

Hope this helped.

[atomicEGT]

plan out what you want to do from the start... i've gone through about three setups so far and finally found one i liked.

figure out how much power you want to make, from that you can figure out how you want to get there.

[protouser]

wow yeah that would be the way to do it but i dont have that kind of mooolah. so i guess it would be too much to get a mani and a turbo and plumbing , intercooler, and limmit it to about 8 lbs.

[McCorkle]

him talking backyard engineering stuff i have a non existant budget

So lets pretend this jerry-rigged setup might actually work...for a short while. If you have no money how do you plan to repair the car after you **** it up? Sounds like you shouldn't be attempting anything with this car with such a limited/non-existant budget.

[Marc93lx]

So lets pretend this jerry-rigged setup might actually work...for a short while. If you have no money how do you plan to repair the car after you **** it up? Sounds like you shouldn't be attempting anything with this car with such a limited/non-existant budget.

Which brings us back to: http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/show...90&postcount=3

[protouser]

im hard headed by nature

[sohc 1.8t]

im hard headed by nature

well, then good luck you are going to need it.