Valve stem seals, can they be changed with the head on?

[dx92beater]

Hi,

I was wondering if the valve stem seals (provided that they are bad) can be changed on the car as opposed to having the head removed?

Thanks

[Identity_X]

I am certain that you need the head out to replace the valve seals. When I replaced mine, I was in the middle of my engine swap so the head was already apart.

This could be helpful to you:

http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10394&page=1&pp=20

[Maz1.8T]

Hi,

I was wondering if the valve stem seals (provided that they are bad) can be changed on the car as opposed to having the head removed?

Thanks

Yes but you need a tool that screws in the spark plug hole to plug in compressed air so that when you unlock the valves, they don't fall down the combustion chamber. There must some tool also to compress the springs so that you can put back the retainers... cause most tools are made to compress with the head off but now it's a different story.

[Identity_X]

Yes but you need a tool that screws in the spark plug hole to plug in compressed air so that when you unlock the valves, they don't fall down the combustion chamber. There must some tool also to compress the springs so that you can put back the retainers... cause most tools are made to compress with the head off but now it's a different story.

True. I had to make my own tools for this and it wasn't fun. It's all covered in the link I posted above

[dx92beater]

Thanks guys, I am going to run a compression test soon. Could you guys tell me if you think that my problem is valve stem seals or rings in the meantime?

The car starts to smoke blue a few seconds after startup then goes away. (Became alot worse after popping bardahal in)

BUT.....it also smokes after running it for a long time (BUT only when the car starts to overheat as it has an overheating problem)

The person at the inspections place seems to think that the rings are shot, but that I would probably pass if I got rid of the overheating problem as he believes that while the car is overheating the rings just cannot bear it and become overwhelmed and the car starts smoking again. The smell is always oil and never coolant.

I just got a radiator to try and stop the overheating.

What do you think about this?

Thank you

[SgtRauksauff]

Identity_X, do you have a picture of your custom tools? I'll have to be digging into my own system soon, and I'd rather do it myself than have some stupid shop do it. (last time I took my head in to have just a valve job and new seals put in, they completely lost my head. d'oh!!!!)

The head I'm going to be using now doesn't need a valve job, but I might throw on new seals and the Eiibach springs just for fun. And even with the head off, my valve spring compressor won't work (made for V8's, not DOHC heads where you can barely get to the top of the valves because the HLA bore is in the way...)


--sarge

[Identity_X]

Haven't seen the tools since I did the job, but I'll look around the garage and snap some pictures if I do find them.

[Jho]

Could you guys tell me if you think that my problem is valve stem seals or rings in the meantime?

The car starts to smoke blue a few seconds after startup then goes away. (Became alot worse after popping bardahal in)

BUT.....it also smokes after running it for a long time (BUT only when the car starts to overheat as it has an overheating problem)

The person at the inspections place seems to think that the rings are shot, but that I would probably pass if I got rid of the overheating problem as he believes that while the car is overheating the rings just cannot bear it and become overwhelmed and the car starts smoking again. The smell is always oil and never coolant.

I just got a radiator to try and stop the overheating.

What do you think about this?

Thank you

My car does the same thing minus the overheating. Sounds like valve guide seals to me. And if you are overheating, chances are, your head is warped. This is could be why it smokes when it gets too hot.

[Protoss]

i am in the process of rebuilding a BP head.

You NEED to remove the head to PROPERLY remove the valve so you can change the valve seals. you remove to valve you need to drop the valve into the combustion chamber, and it is easier to do that if you just pull the head. you have the cams off, What is 8 more bolts. HONESTLY.. 8 more bolts.

I compressed the spring with a sliding bar clamp, a o2 socket, and a 1" piece of 1/2" roundbar. (round bar on the valve, and socket on the spring

dont have a clamp, flip the head upsidedown so that the wanted spring rests on the socket.. have a buddy pressdown on the head, thus compressing the spring. using a ***SOFT*** hammer strike the lifted valve. if the valve falls into the head the retainer had been dropped. it is a GGOD idea to have 4-5 cloths stacked under the head so the retainers dont go bouncing.

and that is how to remove a valve without a compressor.


as for those who are interested. i am doing a valve job and intalling 1mm larger exaust valves, .5mm larger intake.

a custom intake/turbo manifold also in the works to match the custom machined ports

[Jho]

Cool, put some pics up so we can see the rebuild, and final result.

[Protoss]

i'll try to get a digi cam for x-mas, so i can do that

[92dx]

I heard another way of keeping the valves from falling into the combustion chamber. Thread some nylon rope in the spark plug hole and keep feeding it in the cylinder until its full with the rope, leaving sone hang out so it can be taken out, lol. Thats the ghetto-est **** Ive heard, but works if youre stuck or too broke/lazy for a head gasket.

[Protoss]

but you still need to put pressue on on the other side of the valve to compress the vavle. if you use the top of the piston you are just going to bend the vavle.

and the rope trick is mostly used to lock the crank by not allowing the piston to reach TDC, so you can undo the crank pulley.