Anyone interested in prebuilt Megasquirts?

[matt_fulghum]

Looking around to see if anyone's interested in purchasing prebuilt pretested Megasquirt systems, as well as wiring harnesses/mounting plates/etc. I'm broke, and need monies. Somebody pay me!

[D323]

Post that link to the install you did on your MX-3.... that was a clean install d00d. Looked really nice.

[matt_fulghum]

http://www.grmotorsports.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=12749

there's my car.
The mounting plates and wiring harness and such would all be sold separately, so you can get whatever you want however you want. I'm flexible.

Price would be $320 for an MS-II with the latest board, preassembled and pretested. Wiring harness price would depend on what you'd want (relay board or not). Mounting plates would be available as well, not sure of the price for that either.

I can also build the older MSnS-Extra box if you'd like, for $250.

[Silentbob343]

Matt, I was looking at your set up and was wondering why you have that screw terminal next to the relay board? I haven't seen that on any other relay board pictures, was it something you added on your own?

[Lex]

I'm interested in your setup Matt (talked to you about this earlier). I'm just a little skeptical about being able to tune in reliably without many hours and $$ spent at the dyno.

[b-potent]

I'm not too fond of the open electronics, but if you sell a simple kit at a decent price, i'm in. If not then i guess greddy e-manage it is.

[Silentbob343]

well the only part that is "open" is the relay board, but it's not needed. You can just use a wiring harness and go directly to the injectors and various sensors. I like the relay board as it keeps idiots, like me, from burning out an MS

[D323]

well the only part that is "open" is the relay board, but it's not needed. You can just use a wiring harness and go directly to the injectors and various sensors. I like the relay board as it keeps idiots, like me, from burning out an MS

I too like that idea... and if need be, you can always make an enclosure for it.

[matt_fulghum]

Matt, I was looking at your set up and was wondering why you have that screw terminal next to the relay board? I haven't seen that on any other relay board pictures, was it something you added on your own?

I added that little strip so that I could run multiple things off of single terminals more easily... for instance on the fuel pump terminal they recommend you also put the +12V line to the spark coil there, so I just jumpered it over to the terminal block and ran two lines off of it. Also, with the screw terminals I figured it's less easy for wires to just pop out of there (instead of the normal relay board terminal block) so I put 0 load wiring between the relay board and the screw terminals, and put the rest of the wiring harness (for the most part at least) onto the screw terminals.

I'm interested in your setup Matt (talked to you about this earlier). I'm just a little skeptical about being able to tune in reliably without many hours and $$ spent at the dyno.

It's quite easy to get an initial tune, to the point where it runs very well at stable AFRs. Once you get the fuel maps to the point where the AFRs are around optimal (13.5 at the peak torque point and up for a starting point, in general) it should already be running much better than stock. There are many BPT maps out there already that are dyno tuned already, and many people who would be willing to help you out to finish tuning from there. Dyno tuning is only necessary if you're going for absolute maximum power.

I'm not too fond of the open electronics, but if you sell a simple kit at a decent price, i'm in. If not then i guess greddy e-manage it is.

It's not a big deal unless you have acid rain in your area or something nasty like that... water won't do anything to it... the cold is a bigger problem, but to combat both the cold from affecting the board and the water as well, I spray both sides with a layer of silicone conformal coating, so it's pretty much weatherproof.

and if need be, you can always make an enclosure for it.

I can get a top for the case, but it's not really necessary and makes it a little irritating to work with when you want to get at the terminals (the endplates [which would have to be taller to screw into the top] constrict your movement a little and it's an added hassle that is not really necessary)

Basically don't pour saltwater on the thing and you're allright, although the conformal coating should protect it from that too. You can also put a strip of electrical tape over the terminals.

The relay board, as Silentbob said, is not necessary. It makes it a little easier to wire up and you can chuck all of your stock engine harness bits (just about) but you don't need it for a working MS system, and indeed it does make the system more expensive (not much, but it's not super cheap either for me to build a whole wiring harness and a relay box and mounting plates and yada yada yada) It's an option. A NICE option though

[mike_moss]

Can you make one for the KLZE?

[matt_fulghum]

Can you make one for the KLZE?

yep.

[mike_moss]

Ohhhhh wow! Interesting.

So will this be plug 'n' play? I've been wanting to persue the option of MSnS, but I don't know much electronics, so I've been kind of avoiding it. But if there's a ready-made solution out there, that'd be really REALLY tempting.

[D323]

Ohhhhh wow! Interesting.

So will this be plug 'n' play? I've been wanting to persue the option of MSnS, but I don't know much electronics, so I've been kind of avoiding it. But if there's a ready-made solution out there, that'd be really REALLY tempting.

hence why I went with a MF built MS system.

[matt_fulghum]

I can potentially MAKE it plug and play, but that'd involve hacking the connectors out of ECUs from the junkyard and around here there aren't too many to go around. If you REALLY WANTED I could do that though. It'd be easier to just send crimp connectors and have you crimp them onto the stock harness though. That way you could keep your stock connectors for the stock ECU (in case you wanted to run it for emissions checks reasons or somethin, although with a little work I bet you could get better emissions on the MS) but also have the MS harness there for when you wanna run it.

The only pain is that with the coil driver on the MS, you don't need the ignitor that the normal ignition coil has (which is inside the KL series distributor as I recall) and I'm not sure how you'd remove it from the circuit. Gro has a tutorial on converting to an external coil though, that would be really nifty. If you did that, you could hook everything up with spade connectors so that when you were running the stock ECU you could plug into the HEI and when you're running the MS you could bypass it.

http://www.wihandyman.com/wil/howto/hei/index.htm <--- address to the distributor mod

It might be easiest for me to design the system so that I run a couple extra wires into the engine bay just to hook up to an external coil, and you can add the spark plug tower thing onto the distributor and leave the internal coil there. When the Megasquirt is plugged in, the internal coil will not fire and the external will... when the stock ECU is plugged in the internal coil will fire and the external won't.

It's a little messy but worth it imho.

[matt_fulghum]

hence why I went with a MF built MS system.

*flattered*






just kidding... it'll be awesome. Hopefully your stuff will come in before x-mas and I can get it all built for you pretty soon.