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Transmision bounce???

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    #1

    Transmision bounce???

    I'm used to RWD cars, please bear with me.

    I'm driving a 1993 Protege DOHC five speed. Just installed an ACT clutch kit and it's made the car extremely enjoyable to drive. The problem is that the car bucks when I shift gears or when I transition from coasting to accelerating - I've never been in a car that did this so much...

    I'm wondering where the slop is coming from. This happens in all gears, but is only uncomfortable in 1st and 2nd, for example if I coast down a hill them stomp on it the car just lurches and bounces. I'm thinking the backlash in the differential is out of whack or the engine mounting system just plain sucks???

    I have polyurethane inserts on the lower engine mounts as well, all of the fasteners are torqued to spec from the clutch rebuild, and still it lurches when going from coasting to accelerating!!! The CV shafts are both new and in great shape.

    Please advise. I hope this is something I can take care of without a transmission rebuild or making my own engine mounts
    Last edited by coleman; 03-17-2006, 02:06 AM.
    .
    Tags: None
    #2
    i have the same problem.... i wish i had the answer...
    ClubProtege

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      #3
      same issue here....I believe its diff backlash as well.
      hello 4g63 nice to meet you

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        #4
        to determin if your motor mounts are good have someone put the car into gear while you watch from the side or apply power with the clutch slowly fom 1st to reverse and see if the motor moves alot. i dont reccomend you stand infront of the car while this happens. you can also chain the motor down to the frame. kinda the same idea of a sway bar for your motor.
        93 protege lx 190k, stick, girlie green

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          #5
          Mounts are fine, I have polyurethane inserts on the lower engine mounts and I inspected them all when I did the clutch swap just recently.

          Sounds like backlash then, since it happens in all gears and varies in intensity with gear ratio and the mounts are good.

          Now does anyone know any tricks to adjusting the backlash, preferentially without removing the transaxle from the car? I'll probably get a junkyard transaxle and completely rebuild it if removal is required, so I can swap them out quickly.

          I'm thiniking of machining some dogbone mounts between the engine head and the radiator support, like many V6 FWD cars have. This will hold the engine still even if the differential backlash is out of whack. Anyone done this for the Protege?
          .

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            #6
            I'm thiniking of machining some dogbone mounts between the engine head and the radiator support, like many V6 FWD cars have. This will hold the engine still even if the differential backlash is out of whack. Anyone done this for the Protege?[/QUOTE]


            first, some ideas i know i have seen some GM cars, older ones, that had a sor of mini shock absorber instead of a dog bone. make sure you find a really strong part to attach it to.

            second you could go to a rigid style link like the kind you see on a four link rear suspension with a solid axle that has a turn buckle and two aircraft style bolt through ball pivots. i have actually seen these for the v-8 engines on a mustang 86 and up just adapt that to work. would be kind harsh but the engine would really be stiffened a lot.

            personally i would go with the shock absorber type not as harsh.

            next where did you find these inserts for your mounts?
            This is our quest; as the tail lights fade into the distance let it not be the jeers of others that say we can not do what others have, but to let the whistle of the bov the whine of our turbo and the roar of our exhaust announce to those who may say it can not be done that we will not go quietly into the night we will not bow to mainstream but rather blow by them doing mach speed laughing our asses off and giving them the one sure sign( ) so that they will understand their place in life when it comes to doubting a driven individual who owns a Mazda BG with a boosted BP

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              #7
              Originally posted by benchracer01
              I'm thiniking of machining some dogbone mounts between the engine head and the radiator support, like many V6 FWD cars have. This will hold the engine still even if the differential backlash is out of whack. Anyone done this for the Protege?


              first, some ideas i know i have seen some GM cars, older ones, that had a sor of mini shock absorber instead of a dog bone. make sure you find a really strong part to attach it to.

              second you could go to a rigid style link like the kind you see on a four link rear suspension with a solid axle that has a turn buckle and two aircraft style bolt through ball pivots. i have actually seen these for the v-8 engines on a mustang 86 and up just adapt that to work. would be kind harsh but the engine would really be stiffened a lot.

              personally i would go with the shock absorber type not as harsh.

              next where did you find these inserts for your mounts?

              you would probably bend the radiator support. The firewall would be a better choice IMO.

              On eBay there are plenty of the engine dampners for Miatas... you could probably get one to work with your car with minimal modification.

              I made my own poly mounts b/c I wanted the stiffest urethane possible.
              The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by D323
                you would probably bend the radiator support. The firewall would be a better choice IMO.
                Beat me to it...
                You would definately bend it. They're easy to bend by hand. Firewall is the way to go. Just find a spot you can get to from under the dash and put a support plate there to bolt to.
                Current-'08 MZ3 Hatch auto, '04 MZ3 Hatch 5-spd, '03 Pro-Lx 5 spd,
                '56 VW Cal Ragtop
                www.cardomain.com/ride/2285117/1

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                  #9
                  If it is diff backlash puttin a dog bone or dampner isn't going to make any difference. The only way to fix that is to open up the trans and re-shim the diff or replace spider gears.
                  hello 4g63 nice to meet you

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                    #10
                    how is the rear motor mount (you know, the pain in the ass to get to one)?


                    i had the same problem on the escort, when i put window weld in the mounts it disappeared.

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                      #11
                      Mounts are fine, I have polyurethane inserts on the lower engine mounts and I inspected them all when I did the clutch swap just recently.

                      I'll have to rebuild a factory transmission to spec then, this is driving me crazy. Good time to change out 5th gear as well. I can get that from any Probe/MX-6 transmission, right?

                      Thanks for all of the advice guys, I do appreciate it
                      .

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by coleman
                        Mounts are fine, I have polyurethane inserts on the lower engine mounts and I inspected them all when I did the clutch swap just recently.

                        I'll have to rebuild a factory transmission to spec then, this is driving me crazy. Good time to change out 5th gear as well. I can get that from any Probe/MX-6 transmission, right?

                        Thanks for all of the advice guys, I do appreciate it
                        if your looking for lower revs, use the 5th gear from a DX protege, as the 3.8 final drive is lower and will result in less RPM's on the highway.
                        The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          this may sound totally off but i have hade the same simptoms an several customers cars when the maf boot was torn or they had an air leak inbetween the tb and vaf.
                          the engine moving under torque opens the air leak causing the engine to bog and jump
                          it may sound silly but check your maf boot

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