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    Changing auto tranny fluid

    I figure after 140k its time for a fluid change in my pro, I have no idea how long its been but it ive put 50k on it in the last year since I bought it, and its starting to discolor. My qouestions are:

    Do I need to remove the brace running under the tranny pan, to remove it, or cna I wiggle it out without dropping that brace?

    Does the TC have a drain plug, if not how should I get the fluid out of it?

    How many quarts does the tranny hold?
    -Donnie-

    #2
    I need to do the same thing on my car.... all i know is that the ATX holds 6.7 qts of oil.

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      #3
      Originally posted by 94tege View Post
      I figure after 140k its time for a fluid change in my pro, I have no idea how long its been but it ive put 50k on it in the last year since I bought it, and its starting to discolor. My qouestions are:

      Do I need to remove the brace running under the tranny pan, to remove it, or cna I wiggle it out without dropping that brace?

      Does the TC have a drain plug, if not how should I get the fluid out of it?

      How many quarts does the tranny hold?
      50K in one year?

      The capacity is 6.7 qts. of Dexron II or M-III.

      I'm unsure if you need to drop the brace, but it would sure make the job a lot easier.

      I don't think the TC has a drain plug, thus you can't empty it without removing it. Your best bet would be to get the fluid warm before you drain it, that way you get the most out. To get ALL of the fluid changed, you'd need to do a few drain and refills.
      Last edited by Jho; 11-27-2006, 08:32 PM.

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        #4
        what are some good auto tranz fludis to use, i.e. B&M trick shift,lucas.
        someone give me some input,my sisters car is a auto, the first auto bp i worked on,
        and is going to need tranz fluid after motor replacemant.
        thanks ryan
        5 boosted bp cars,why...

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          #5
          I'd reccomend changing the auto tranny filter as well. I changed mine at work the other day in about an hour. All thanks to my buddy starting the car before I put the brace back in, and thus pushing the motor way forward. -sigh- took us a bit, but we were able to push it back in place to connect the brace to the mounts again.

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            #6
            how difficult is it to detach the brace?

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              #7
              if you're talking about the vertical crossmember that hooks your f/r motor mount. its fairly simple.
              Just jack the front of the car up
              stick a jackstand in the center of the brace
              take some pressure off the jack so the jackstand/brace are tight
              unbolt the 2 front bolts (motor mount ones too if you have too)
              and undo the rear 2 bolts (ditto)
              and then jack the car up more....VOILA!

              hope that helps

              JACK.
              -Jack

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                #8
                also, i wouldn't reccomend changing the filter...i'd say it would be absolutely necessary

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                  #9
                  It had 98k on it when I started driving it in april, its now got 141k on it, so 50 is a little exagerated. i frequently drive all over the place. Its been to KY/wv twice ( 1500-2000 mile round trips), Been over into PA, MI, and In as well this year. Also been to cleveland 6 or so times (3hours one way) and about the same number of times to cinci, which is also about 3 hours. Plus back and forth running everyday, and the times i just go driving on the back roads. My oil gets a change atleast once a month, some times more rapid than that, I drive all over the place,

                  I really hate to drop the vertical cross member, when I repalced the core support, the BRAND NEW weld nuts broke off when i tightened the bolts, so its gonan be a pain, guess I need to fix it anyway, may stop the vibe Ive got up front. Didnt realize the engine was hooked to that.
                  -Donnie-

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by 94tege View Post
                    I really hate to drop the vertical cross member, when I repalced the core support, the BRAND NEW weld nuts broke off when i tightened the bolts, so its gonan be a pain, guess I need to fix it anyway, may stop the vibe Ive got up front. Didnt realize the engine was hooked to that.
                    Yeah, you should definitely fix that. LOL, the engine is most certainly mounted there, twice!

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Jho View Post
                      Yeah, you should definitely fix that. LOL, the engine is most certainly mounted there, twice!
                      Yup. And be sure not to commit the same retarded move me and my buddy did. It'll save you a lot of time and energy.

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                        #12
                        Think it could be done with just dropping the front of the brace?
                        -Donnie-

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by 94tege View Post
                          Think it could be done with just dropping the front of the brace?
                          Why not get the thing out of your way and drop it completely?

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                            #14
                            becuase its never that simple when I work on things. most likely I'll get the bolts 1/2 loose and the weld nuts will break off, just like they did up front. Then I'll really be screwed
                            -Donnie-

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by 94tege View Post
                              becuase its never that simple when I work on things. most likely I'll get the bolts 1/2 loose and the weld nuts will break off, just like they did up front. Then I'll really be screwed
                              Smarter not harder.

                              To me, it would be more simple to drop the brace, get it right out of your way, and then get at the tranny pan.

                              Just soak the bolts down with PB Blaster for a while before you try to loosen them. If they feel like they're going to break, STOP! You'll need to heat them up at this point.

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