as much whp as i can get, na, on a budget

[southerncross]

i keep reading threads and posts about na whp on a budget. i want to see what i can do without opening the block or head. . . just bolt ons. i think it ought to be kinda fun.

right now my car is a really good candidate for this. the only performance mods i have are a k&n drop in filter and intake hard piping, and a 2.25 exhaust with straight through mufflers. i figure that worth 2 or 3hp over stock. ought to be a fairly good baseline. we used to have two dynos local, but i dont know if either of them are open anymore. i guess i'll have to see before i can make any promises on dyno runs, but i do have access to a Gtech Pro, so i can at least have some sort performance numbers to post after i buy/install something.

i'll gtech the car first and post a baseline when i get it back on the road after the timing belt install, which should be in the next week or so.

here's what im going to try to accomplish:

(in no certain order)
timing advance
clutch/superlight flywheel
header
ignition system (msd or something similar)
underdrive pulleys
intake manifold change
throttle body if i can find one
fuel pressure regulator
gut the car (its free!)
remove a/c (also free!)
piggyback fuel/ignition controller


as far as the underdrive pulleys are concerned, im going to try them just to see how much difference they make. i plan on turboing the car later, but its going to be a while, and the pulleys will probably come off for that. ive seen a lot of debate about em screwing up your engine, but mine is old anyway so who gives a **** if i blow it up. . . just gives me a reason to build it for boost. the final steps will probably be a set of cams, cam gears, dyno tuning. i may do the exhintake trick depending on how hp crazy i get, but to be honest id rather just pony up the $900 or so for cams/ti retainers/springs and all that jazz. ive seen what it can do on a honda motor, and id really like to think it will do the same for my pro.

ok, suggestions, comments, flaming. . . lets hear it.

[1967cutlass]

Probably 130-135whp with the mods you listed and a good dyno tune.. I don't think you'll get much higher than that without building the head and getting cams.

In my opinion.. don't strip the car, don't yank the AC. It's just going to make the car more ****ty to drive and not significantly faster. With 130whp the car should do 0-60 around 7 seconds, which is pretty quick.

[dave0r]

My Budget N/A build

BA/BH Block (33kms) on it
BP02 single counter weight crank
BP22 pistons (9.8:1 CR)
ExhaustINT mod BP05 extint, BP05 ex (2 sets) or BP06 extint/bp06 ex, 197.5 degree camgear hax

293cc injectors
DIY ported/Match/polished head
OEM exhaust mani (port matched)
2.5" exhaust

99 valves (Int & ext) has less of a "concave dip" so more compression again
N/A rods or B6t, unsure yet

4age-20V silver top ITB's on a custom DIY plate
still havent got the runner lengths sorted yet, pending power band calcutions OR 2nd Gen Inlet mani with TB (just scored)

Link G3, running wasted spark and possibly Vics (MOST EXPENSIVE BIT) carried over from my turbo setup

Easy 150whp on NZ dyno


Everything is in bits again as i just remeber that the engine bend a conrod.so i want to get the crank checked out

[southerncross]

i dont care what i come out with as long as its more than stock. the whole point is to see how much of a difference all the bolt ons make. i know its not going to be fast. . . thats why im hoping it will nuke itself and i can justify doing a full build, oil pan to valve cover, for boost.

the reason im going to gut the car is because its going to be a hpde/track day car. my a/c quit working and im not going to pay someone (or try to do it myself) to convert it to 134a from r12 for an arm and two legs. . . id rather just ride in my wife's car if i want to have a/c. not to mention that every 100lbs is like 10hp.

[1967cutlass]

i dont care what i come out with as long as its more than stock. the whole point is to see how much of a difference all the bolt ons make. i know its not going to be fast. . . thats why im hoping it will nuke itself and i can justify doing a full build, oil pan to valve cover, for boost.

the reason im going to gut the car is because its going to be a hpde/track day car. my a/c quit working and im not going to pay someone (or try to do it myself) to convert it to 134a from r12 for an arm and two legs. . . id rather just ride in my wife's car if i want to have a/c. not to mention that every 100lbs is like 10hp.

It's not going to blow up with bolt ons dude. It will even run better and get better MPG. You can get 130whp with timing advance, header, good exhaust, cut intake manifold, and air filter.

That's MORE than enough power to get you started for a track car. The suspension, wheels, and aerodynamics are a lot more important than power.

[1967cutlass]

My friend did all of his bolt on mods when the car had 200k miles.. like two years ago.. Not blown up.

[southerncross]

i understand what you're saying, im not an idiot. ive spent a lot of time (years) building race cars with other people and for other people. . . i know what i can and cant get away with. the whole purpose of me buying this car was to have a cheap ride until i could get the time to build a decent autocross/hpde car. . . just so happens pro's are better than i originally thought they were (thanks to clubprotege).

before im done, it'll be stripped, stitch welded, caged, lightened to the extreme, all the suspension done and have a built drivetrain before im finished with it. . . but thats going to be a while, because my wife and i just had our first child about 11 days ago. so, ive still got the performance itch, a good daily driver for my wife and i, and 2 disposable mazdas sitting in my yard. . . so maybe now you see where im coming from.

i dont have a specific goal except to see what mods are worth in real world wheel horsepower and if they adversely affect longevity (mainly the pulleys). im going to beat the living hell out of this motor with the intention that WHEN it dies on me, i will build it along with the rest of the car into what the final plan is. this whole exercise is like an interim sort of thing until i get some money saved to really go to town on it.

i already have the suspension planned, i have the wheels, and who needs aerodynamics in autocross? besides, what am i going to do about it? pros are boxy and flat. . . not going to be a lot of "aero tuning" going on until it can actually reach a speed where that matters.

[jrally]

If you haven't already, check out my buddies endurance car.

http://advanceoffroad.com/roadracing/ita_escort.htm

Very well sorted out track EGT.

-Jon R.

[1967cutlass]

i understand what you're saying, im not an idiot. ive spent a lot of time (years) building race cars with other people and for other people. . . i know what i can and cant get away with. the whole purpose of me buying this car was to have a cheap ride until i could get the time to build a decent autocross/hpde car. . . just so happens pro's are better than i originally thought they were (thanks to clubprotege).

before im done, it'll be stripped, stitch welded, caged, lightened to the extreme, all the suspension done and have a built drivetrain before im finished with it. . . but thats going to be a while, because my wife and i just had our first child about 11 days ago. so, ive still got the performance itch, a good daily driver for my wife and i, and 2 disposable mazdas sitting in my yard. . . so maybe now you see where im coming from.

i dont have a specific goal except to see what mods are worth in real world wheel horsepower and if they adversely affect longevity (mainly the pulleys). im going to beat the living hell out of this motor with the intention that WHEN it dies on me, i will build it along with the rest of the car into what the final plan is. this whole exercise is like an interim sort of thing until i get some money saved to really go to town on it.

i already have the suspension planned, i have the wheels, and who needs aerodynamics in autocross? besides, what am i going to do about it? pros are boxy and flat. . . not going to be a lot of "aero tuning" going on until it can actually reach a speed where that matters.

Na mods won't hurt the longevity of the BP. The pulley MIGHT but the pulley is also a fairly worthless mod.

And as far as aero, you said HPDE not me. I realize it doesn't need aero for autocross (most of the time). And for what it's worth the car can go fast enough on a track with 130hp to use aero aids, trust me.

If you have so much experience building race cars do what you're gonna do.. Just plan on 130-140 whp give or take a few. Since the amount of power you're going to get will be in the same ballpark pretty much no matter what you do, be careful about how you tune the motor in regards to what will happen to the powerband.

[BuiltMazdaTough]

If you haven't already, check out my buddies endurance car.

http://advanceoffroad.com/roadracing/ita_escort.htm

Very well sorted out track EGT.

-Jon R.

wow! amazing EGT.
any chance of any engine bay shots?

[jrally]

It doesn't look like anything too different than most of our cars. No A/C compressor or PS pump. As of a couple weekends ago, the car now has a BPT in it. The car was making just under 130whp with the 10:1 N/A engine, now it's making about 160whp @ 4.5psi (ish), nice safe level for a road raced turbo car.

-Jon R.