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Timing 101 on 1st Gen

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    Timing 101 on 1st Gen

    I just bought a 92 DX with 79k miles on it. I'm trying to go through a checklist to get it to tip top shape. I perfomed a general tune up ( plugs, wires, rotor, cap, injection cleaner ) and moved on to checking the timing. I'm completley lost on the timing markers. I cant really see any markers. On the pulley am I looking for a notch or a dot. If dot what color? I think I see a dot but not sure. Now on to the scale. I can see the notches in it but if there is any writing or numbering on the scale I cant see it. Anyway, how many notches back from the front of the front of the scale ( front of the car ) should the dot/notch be? If advancing it to improve power ho many notches for that?

    Thanks Guys
    Mike
    I've got an idea - an idea so smart that my head would explode if I even began to know what I'm talking about.

    #2
    Its a notch. Take a piece of chalk and mark it.
    1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
    1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
    2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
    2010 VW routon

    Originally posted by jay
    .....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?

    Comment


      #3
      How about the scale? Where shold I put the notch on the scale for OEM setting?
      I've got an idea - an idea so smart that my head would explode if I even began to know what I'm talking about.

      Comment


        #4
        there was a how-to on advancing the timing but cant find it online but i do have it saved on my computer with all the photos

        Comment


          #5
          BP timing.... Notch on the assesory pully lined up with the "T" mark on the plastic cover should have the cams lined up with the marks on the cam gear backer plate. the "T" is = 0*, every notch towards the back is +1. When using a timing light there is a mark for 10* which is stock, best overall is 12* for safety/performance, max is 18* for performance
          "See that car, in the 80's that car was deadly." Random man to his son while passing the GTX in a parking lot

          Originally posted by neuspeedescort
          the proper spelling would be "Launchabilitiness" i do believe.
          -88' Mazda 323 GTX, 1.8t, Modified Magazine May 2012
          -88' Mazda 323 GTX, caged and ready for dirt
          -93' Mazda Miata, half caged
          -09' Mercedes C63 AMG
          -87' Toyota Land Cruiser, 33's with slight lift, safari style!

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks guys. I think I need to get in there with a rag somhow and try to dig out the notch. I'm not trying to sound like a tard here but is there a trick to shooting the light on the area? I cant seem to get a good angle on it. Too much in the way. Do you guys use mirrors or something?
            I've got an idea - an idea so smart that my head would explode if I even began to know what I'm talking about.

            Comment


              #7
              the notch is probaly filled in with crud and i either turn the wheels all the way to the right and pull the plastic inner wheel well cover or try shooting straight down. If you want try adjusting it by hand/sound. IIRC rotate the disty all the way clockwise should be 18* advance, engine will rev higher, back it down just a little and listen, should be a little smoother and thats prob between 10-14
              "See that car, in the 80's that car was deadly." Random man to his son while passing the GTX in a parking lot

              Originally posted by neuspeedescort
              the proper spelling would be "Launchabilitiness" i do believe.
              -88' Mazda 323 GTX, 1.8t, Modified Magazine May 2012
              -88' Mazda 323 GTX, caged and ready for dirt
              -93' Mazda Miata, half caged
              -09' Mercedes C63 AMG
              -87' Toyota Land Cruiser, 33's with slight lift, safari style!

              Comment


                #8
                if you get tire chalk and rub it over the timing marks they will be plain as day with the timing light!
                There are no stupid questions, just stupid people.

                Comment


                  #9
                  It is a task to get that light to hit it right with all the ps and ac **** in the way. I just removed all that unnecessary crap lol. Seriously go grab a Haynes manual from the auto parts store. There's a lot of info in those. They arent as good as a fsm but they can get you thru a bunch of basic things.
                  1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
                  1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
                  2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
                  2010 VW routon

                  Originally posted by jay
                  .....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    turpro if you want to post up the how-to i can zip it up and send it over aim

                    Comment


                      #11
                      All,

                      I got it timed. Looks like it was 8 degrees btdc I set it for 12ish. Big difference. I wast expecting such a change in the response of the engine. One issue though, I let it sit there for about 30 min warmin up. Lon enough for the fan to kick on during a 15 degree day anyway. One thing I noticed is that I had what looked like blue smoke coming out the back. It did that the other day too when I let warm up for a while. It looks like it burns off and goes away after a few blocks and doesnt come back. Certainly didnt do it after I got done with a few runs to the redline testing out the new timing setting. i have it in the driveway running and will see if it does it again. I'm sure it will. I've driven it at least 900 miles since I bought it and it doesnt look like its burned any oil. Nothing noticeable any way. It doesnt smoke when I start it up like a valve guide and it doesnt smoke going down the road. Normally when your ringsa re shot you can put it in N when youre going down the road and rev it and smoke will come out. I dont see that. I'm concerned, should I be? Should I get a compression tester? I just got the car licensed in my name today. I figure that with 79,000 miles on the odo the engine shouldve had at least another 150,000 on it.

                      Thanks
                      Mike
                      I've got an idea - an idea so smart that my head would explode if I even began to know what I'm talking about.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The blue smoke during warm-up is probably worn valve stem seals.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I suppose I'm looking at a head rebuild right? Since I'm in there anyway... Any Aftermakrket heads I could throw on there?

                          Would that be caused on the exhaust valves? Unburnt fuel Heating them up because of the retarded timing?
                          I've got an idea - an idea so smart that my head would explode if I even began to know what I'm talking about.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            a little blue @ startup isnt really anything to worry about YET you have plenty of time to deal with it .. enjoy the car for a bit.

                            you will find aftermarket support is almost non-existant for our cars. a stock rebuild will do or even a wrecker low mileage head with some new guide seals


                            Comment


                              #15
                              corksport sells a head package but its $2000 with everything

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