Replacing valve stem seals

[323driver]

I need to replace the valve stem seals but I don't want to take the head off since the engine is running strong and compression is 180 at all 4, just smokes badly on startup and when cold. Is it possible to replace the seals with the head on the engine? If I put cylinder 1 at TDC, would the valves for 1 and 4 stay where they should be or is the piston, valve gap big enough and they will fall into the combustion chamber?

[Turpro]

There's a couple of ways to keep the valves up(yes they will fall into the cyl if you don't). You can use a rope and put it in the spark plug hole and then push the piston up by turning the motor(yes leave a piece hanging out to take the string/rope out) or the best way is use an air compressor and a bit that threads into the spark plug hole. There's a write up on feoa. Give me a sec and I'll find it

[therieldeal]

that rope idea isnt bad, never heard that one before

[Turpro]

that rope idea isnt bad, never heard that one before

Haha that's a trick for a cheap bastard like myself.

Here's the link to the original thread. I talked to jacob(a member here as well) and he said this was on his wifes car and its still good.

http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=45644

first off this is really not such a bad job. It is really intimidating cause if you drop a valve in the engine your boned.

step one buy the right tools

1) I suggest a 3/4 deep socket with 1/2 inch drive and a short (6 inch ) extension. This will be used to pop locks loose.

2) You need a air compressor 2-5 gallon will work fine!

3) a valve spring compressor and not any run of the mill you need a fulcrum style like the Sherman one

Valve Spring Compressor Kit
Item # : 085-0960 ( 1620 )

The tool ranges from $50-$120 and come with the 14mm spark plug fitting to inflate the cylinder

Step two

Pull the **** apart!

pull plug wires
pull valve cover
now pull cam gears refer to image

Bolt on the cam gear is 14 mm the cam i used a 15/16ths im not sure what it is in metric. THE BOLT WILL BE TIGHT!

pull the end plat 6x 10mm bolts
pull cam bearing caps
you need to pull CAREFULLY the center guide pins out of the cam gear side so you can mount your compressor


if your not careful pulling the guide pins you'll damage the threads for the cam bearing cap bolts


OK lets take some locks out!!
install your air fitting

use your 3/4 socket tap fast and firm you'll feel them pop and hear them bounce around in the socket when they come out
i used a small magnet tool to pick them up


pull the spring remember how it was when you pulled it out there is a top and bottom

reach in with long pliers and pull the old ones out


I used a 10mm deep socket to install the new stem seals. oil them and guide on with finger if you drop them in the hole your gonna have fun getting them out


You should feel them click on at least once possibly a second click PUSH THEM ON FIRM!

next install spring

i like to put the valve lock plate and locks together first set them on the spring.
set up compressor
and your pressing down put your finger in the slot of the tool and guide locks in

repeat 15 more times and your done

[323driver]

This looks good. But I don't have a compressor and I don't undersand how the rope works... Do I just fill the cylinder with rope or what?

Also, where can I get the valve stem seals? The dealer asks 10 per seal, and there is 16 of them

[5l1mm]

the trick is to keep the valves from falling unrecoverably into your cylinder.
so the rope is to push up on the valves to prevent them from dropping.

stuff a bunch in,
turn crank (by hand) to moosh rope against valves.
profit

[5l1mm]

i got mine in a rebuild kit from advanced auto parts

[323driver]

Ok, that's what I understood. I found a set for like 50$ online, will see what I can get locally.

[redheddude222]

I have a couple of extra unopened sets. I'll sell you one for $10 +shipping.

[Skuce]

Where can you score the fulcrum kit? I'm up in Ontario

[Turpro]

Bumping an old thread for updates.

Did you get these done? If so were they hard?

I'm mainly asking anyone if they did this while head was still on. I'm going to attempt doing mine soon and just wondered who used what to compress the spings. I know they're a pita without the proper tools or while the head is still installed. I thought about getting a 2 arm puller and spare socket. I'd cut a slot in the socket where I could fit needle nose pliers in to put the retainers back in and weld the socket to the flat spot on the puller.

[323driver]

I did it but it was a pain in the ass. I used a big crowbar and a spark plug socket that I cut an opening in it with several extensions. I leaned the crowbar on my strut bar to do the intake valves and used the rad support to do the exhaust valves. If you don't have the appropriate tool, don't do it. The rope trick worked perfectly.

[Turpro]

Good to hear the rope did work. Guess I'll be seeing if I can figure out a tool to use.

Did it burn oil before replacing them? Did it fix what was wrong?

[323driver]

It burned oil before and after, it was the rings and not the valve seals. The problem is that my comp gauge was telling me that the cylinders were at 180 but actually, they were at 160 (I found out the gauge problem only later). knowing that, I would have not changed the seals on this engine.

[SgtRauksauff]

I tend to use rope, less to deal with than an air compressor. No accidental drop-through of the valve if something happens, either.

as for a tool, there's one you can get for about 40 bucks from snap-on, it's an AWESOME little tool....



works frickin' awesome, no need for levers and such.

It's a Blue-Point GA317, Small Valve Keeper Remover and Installer.

here's another one:


here's a link to the PDF: Linky

here's another thread where the first image is also posted. Actually a write-up on replacing the valve seals on a toyota 4AGE engine:
AEU86 forum linky

$36.85 plus shipping... http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&group_ID=1578 Maybe less, maybe more, if you can find a Snap-on truck around.

I started to make my own tool, to do the lever-action style of removal, but this one just works SO freakin' good. install AND uninstall, hassle-free!

I just got done using it on my 4AGE when I was rebuilding it. No need to use a hammer like the pic on the box shows. The valve springs on DOHC engines are generally WAY softer than those on pushrod single-cam engines. I think the seat pressure on the Toyota engine I just did was ~30lbs. The BP is more, but still easily done by hand, as I've done it in the past.

--sarge