ok so lately ive been having some charging issues with the EGTx
to start its got a yellow top battery and a worldwide alternator from advance. these are 2 1/2 years old or so and never had any problems with them other then the alt belt slipping and stretching and being chewed up a lil bit.
but to the problem i first noticed issues a month or 2 ago when my tach would occasionally stop working... never affected driveability and the bat. light wasnt coming on..
it would however affect me restarting the car it would restart if it was right away after shutting it off but anymore then 20min and it would just crank once or twice and die. and i would need to jump it.
ive cleaned/replaced all the grounds and when the car is running its reading 14.5v at the batt. the alt and batt were both tested b4 winter and was told they are good.
after shutting it off the batt would be fully charged at 12.5v but an hour or 2 later it would drop to 10.5v but never go lower.. needless to say i havnt been driving it lately bcuz of these issues.
i borrowed a batter optima red top from a friend put it in there and it helped a lot.. car started everytime right away atleast 4 times that night with anywhere from 30min to 2 hour inbetween starts never any problems.. i thought i was in the clear..
driving home my tach went to 0 and the batt light came on.. dead give away that its the alternator right? so i drive as long as i can till it dies and i pull out the jump box, fires right up and im back on the road get another 2 miles and it dies again at a light. pull the box out again and again fires right up get a couple more miles after the car been stumbling and clearly low on bat. juice it dies again.. never after the jumpbox was on it did the tach come back or the bat. light go away.
after jumpboxin it twice i decided to jump it with my friend mazda 5 let it charge for 10min or so and fired her up no problem.. bat. light went away and the tach was working. awesome so i drive it the last 5miles home and get it in the garage for the night.. checked the batt it was at 11.8v left it all day thur. and checked it tonight, another friday night workin on this thing... anyway it was still at 11.8v so no drain this time where b4 i was loosing 2v on the yellow bat. so i try to crank it and it cranks 2 or 3 times and quits i check the bat im at 11.4v so i try again cranks twice and quits no clicking no nothing.
check the voltage again at the bat. and im at 10.8 ok so now i know starting it isnt going to happen without a jump i decided to pull the alternator as well as the starter thing one of the two has something goin on..
did a google search on bench testing the starter and got this http://www.misterfixit.com/starttst.htm basically in the artical it says that a bad starter could be causing a short within the starter causing a power drain on the bat.
i bench test the GTX starter its actually a mitsubishi made starter and it clicks then spins so it works..
i bench test the JY starter i got it also clicks and spins but sounds a lot worse.. like bad wheel bearing in ur sk8board.. kinda grinding noise..
i check my oem starter from the bp05 and i know that one worked but test it anyway clicks spins and makes the same grinding like bearing noise but not as bad as the JY one.
out of the 3 the GTx one sounded the cleanest.
im going to put the oem one in as i know it worked fine but also the hole where the top left bolt goes thru the trans and into the starter well it was missing the edge so the bolt was actually loose imagine cutting a circle in half and thats what i was threaded into... theres also a crack in the housing on the starter but doesnt go all the way there just looks like the starter had been taken off and dropped a few feet.. i never noticed it during install as i never took the starter off..
should i use the GTX starter because it sounded the best even tho its got a jacked up bolt hole and cracked edge on it..? or should i use the OEM one?
when i had the worldwide alternator tested i also had the GTX one tested it was also good...
i have a warrentee on the WW Alt. that i will swap 2marrow but i want to get it running tonight. so i will try the GTX alt.
Im looking for a quick answer here on what starter u would do.. also looking for any input on where to look for my charging issues..
did the new batt fix it and is it just a coincidence the alt took a dump that same night?
what does yall think? sorry for the uber long post but i wanted to be as clear as possible
to start its got a yellow top battery and a worldwide alternator from advance. these are 2 1/2 years old or so and never had any problems with them other then the alt belt slipping and stretching and being chewed up a lil bit.
but to the problem i first noticed issues a month or 2 ago when my tach would occasionally stop working... never affected driveability and the bat. light wasnt coming on..
it would however affect me restarting the car it would restart if it was right away after shutting it off but anymore then 20min and it would just crank once or twice and die. and i would need to jump it.
ive cleaned/replaced all the grounds and when the car is running its reading 14.5v at the batt. the alt and batt were both tested b4 winter and was told they are good.
after shutting it off the batt would be fully charged at 12.5v but an hour or 2 later it would drop to 10.5v but never go lower.. needless to say i havnt been driving it lately bcuz of these issues.
i borrowed a batter optima red top from a friend put it in there and it helped a lot.. car started everytime right away atleast 4 times that night with anywhere from 30min to 2 hour inbetween starts never any problems.. i thought i was in the clear..
driving home my tach went to 0 and the batt light came on.. dead give away that its the alternator right? so i drive as long as i can till it dies and i pull out the jump box, fires right up and im back on the road get another 2 miles and it dies again at a light. pull the box out again and again fires right up get a couple more miles after the car been stumbling and clearly low on bat. juice it dies again.. never after the jumpbox was on it did the tach come back or the bat. light go away.
after jumpboxin it twice i decided to jump it with my friend mazda 5 let it charge for 10min or so and fired her up no problem.. bat. light went away and the tach was working. awesome so i drive it the last 5miles home and get it in the garage for the night.. checked the batt it was at 11.8v left it all day thur. and checked it tonight, another friday night workin on this thing... anyway it was still at 11.8v so no drain this time where b4 i was loosing 2v on the yellow bat. so i try to crank it and it cranks 2 or 3 times and quits i check the bat im at 11.4v so i try again cranks twice and quits no clicking no nothing.
check the voltage again at the bat. and im at 10.8 ok so now i know starting it isnt going to happen without a jump i decided to pull the alternator as well as the starter thing one of the two has something goin on..
did a google search on bench testing the starter and got this http://www.misterfixit.com/starttst.htm basically in the artical it says that a bad starter could be causing a short within the starter causing a power drain on the bat.
i bench test the GTX starter its actually a mitsubishi made starter and it clicks then spins so it works..
i bench test the JY starter i got it also clicks and spins but sounds a lot worse.. like bad wheel bearing in ur sk8board.. kinda grinding noise..
i check my oem starter from the bp05 and i know that one worked but test it anyway clicks spins and makes the same grinding like bearing noise but not as bad as the JY one.
out of the 3 the GTx one sounded the cleanest.
im going to put the oem one in as i know it worked fine but also the hole where the top left bolt goes thru the trans and into the starter well it was missing the edge so the bolt was actually loose imagine cutting a circle in half and thats what i was threaded into... theres also a crack in the housing on the starter but doesnt go all the way there just looks like the starter had been taken off and dropped a few feet.. i never noticed it during install as i never took the starter off..
should i use the GTX starter because it sounded the best even tho its got a jacked up bolt hole and cracked edge on it..? or should i use the OEM one?
when i had the worldwide alternator tested i also had the GTX one tested it was also good...
i have a warrentee on the WW Alt. that i will swap 2marrow but i want to get it running tonight. so i will try the GTX alt.
Im looking for a quick answer here on what starter u would do.. also looking for any input on where to look for my charging issues..
did the new batt fix it and is it just a coincidence the alt took a dump that same night?
what does yall think? sorry for the uber long post but i wanted to be as clear as possible
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