Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Transmission/Differential/Clutch ticking noise

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Transmission/Differential/Clutch ticking noise

    Hey guys. I understand that I am posting in the wrong generation but I figured that I could still get information for those that look view this generation. So check it:

    *The Problem*
    I have a problem with my '99 Mazda Protege ES with a manual short shifter. The car has got ~215,000 miles on it and with the cold weather recently it started making a ticking noise when I let my foot off of the gas. Whether I'm in gear or out of gear, clutch engaged or disengaged, applying the brakes, in between shifts, turning, or any scenario where my foot comes off of the gas when I am actually moving greater than ~5mph, the car makes a ticking noise. It goes away immediately after touching the gas. You can feather the gas and make the noise come and go.

    *The Sound*
    The noise is similar to a cv joint noise or a card attached to your bicycle tire to create a ticking noise when it smacks repititiously up against your spokes. The faster you go the more repititious it is. I can somewhat feel it in my stick shift. Not a whole lot, but it's there. The noise makes a slight pitch change when putting stick into a gear.

    *Possibility*
    1.) A night or two prior to me hearing this noise for the first time, I was stuck (thanks to listening to my wife) in an icey parking lot where I had to get out. I did rock the car somewhat by going back and forth from reverse to 1st a few times to try to get out. In this case I didn't let the RPMs drop between going back and forth, nor was the transmission grinding and it didn't feel like I hurt anything. When I told my buddy about this, he told me I may have strained the transmission doing this. Possibly a problem?
    2.) About a month prior to this noise event I had my transmission flushed of Redline MTL and replaced with generic 75W-90. Could this cause a problem?
    3.) The bitter cold weather.
    4.) The mileage.

    *Diagnostic*
    1.) Took it a place where they said it was the transmission. I can get a used one with 88,000 miles on it for $1100 (with labor) from FL.
    2.) Took it to a tranny shop. Cost $50 to run diagnostic. They said the tranny, but not ruling out the clutch. $1800. $2100 with fixing clutch.
    3.) A buddy said possible engine mount problems. I understand this but I don't think this is it.
    4.) Another mechanic told me over the phone it could be the differential.

    *Issue*
    I don't have that kind of cash running around. If I have someone else do it for cheaper, then I risk the possibility of having them fix one thing, but that may end up not being the problem.

    Does anybody know what this could be? Anything maybe within the transmission, differential, etc...? Anybody ever experience this before when the throttle is released while the wheels are moving?

    Thanks in advance! The quicker, the better on this.

    #2
    it sounds like a bad cv joint or a differential thats about to let go
    Escort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
    ... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
    Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts

    Comment


      #3
      I can't believe how similar our stories are.

      I have a 1999 Protege ES, 1.8 141K miles

      On Saturday 01/09/2010 I was in Vail and my car was in a bitterly cold parking lot. I had to rev it back and forth to get out of ice.

      We got out and then I heard a clicking noise whenever the wheel was moving. The only way to make the clicking stop was to accelerate.

      If I put in the clutch it or put it in neutral while moving, the clicking also happens. It clicks faster when I drive faster. As long as the wheels are moving faster then the gas pedal is torquing the engine.

      Sometimes, to make it stop while driving. I accelerate at a measured pace (No clicking) But at some point the wheels are moving faster then I can accelerate. So I try to hit the break with one foot (To slow the wheels and to kill the momentum) while also hitting the gas to keep it driving forward as fast as the wheels are turning.

      I also can feel the clicking slightly in the gear shift if I hold my hand on it.

      If anyone has any ideas, I've been looking for hours. But this is a hard set of symptoms to describe in a google question. Mazda dealership said it's the transmission and they want to charge us 3,300$ to replace the transmission.

      I'm now guessing it is a differential issue. It must be wherever the wheels moving forward would click against something going slower then from the engine.

      Sears said - Not CV joints. Probably transmission.
      Mazda said- Maybe bearings, maybe driveshaft.. and 3300 new transmission would fix it.

      Ok, that's everything I know. Let me know how it works out for you. If I get this fixed right, I'll do the same.

      Good Luck

      Comment


        #4
        I found out what it is.

        So I had the same exact scenario as you. And what happened was a metal tooth sheared off in the inside differential. This is because one wheel was able to move while the other one wasn't in the ice. I have to buy a new transmission. Cost 1600$ for labor and parts. Sounds like this is a week part for our cars. Good Luck.

        Comment


          #5
          That's crazy that we both had the same scenario in the same week with our cars! How did you find out that it was a metal tooth that sheared off in the differential? Did you pull it all apart or did someone tell you? Can't you just replace the tooth itself and then put it all back together rather than getting a whole new transmission? It would be cheaper.

          Where are you getting the transmission from anyways? How many miles are on the new transmission?

          Comment


            #6
            I have had the car looked at by quite a few people now and I am getting multiple answers, but I believe it's boiling down to the differential like many have mentioned. I've considered selling the car and just getting a newer vehicle, but my car has been taken car of pretty well. I don't want to just sell it or put a used transmission in it if there's a $25, $50, $200, $400 fix. If I sold it someone would know exactly how to fix it and have the car running like new for 25 cents for all I know. Then he'd be like.... And I'd be like.... That's why I'm taking my time with this.

            I have another question for everyone...

            Can I get a transmission from another vehicle other than a '99 Protege ES and install it into my '99 Protege ES (manual)? This way I don't have to just find a used Protege transmission with a lot of miles on it for a heavier price than I would want to pay for. I'm thinking maybe another Ford vehicle or an older or newer Protege model.

            What do you think?

            Thanks.

            Comment

            Working...
            X