This thread is a good one, I have the same identical problem/symptom and have tried to do everything to have a perfect idle.
IMO, I think the engine's emission system is a little aggresive or maybe a little off for its time. Always when I race the car it will kind of "wake" up from its stale humble condition and once I am back to driving normal on the next light or stop the engine will stay a little bit up on the rpms exactly like you are stating and then I give it a fewe seconds and drops to 1000 or if it is a very hot day to 800.
On colder days it is more noticeable the idle glitch, in a way I have learned to live with it.
I always gave the fault to the engine mods, but I have exactly the same engine on my scort completely stock and behaves the same although not so drastic. The modded breathes much better so the change is more pronounced.
Just something to look into as it has helped in my case, move maybe one or two teeth clockwise (if I am correct) on the AFM to make the flap a little stiffer, it usually helps a lot on the idle issue besides messing around with the TB idle screw, and makes it less drastic rpm change from driving to smooth idling usually like you state from 1200 to 800 or so...
IMO, I think the engine's emission system is a little aggresive or maybe a little off for its time. Always when I race the car it will kind of "wake" up from its stale humble condition and once I am back to driving normal on the next light or stop the engine will stay a little bit up on the rpms exactly like you are stating and then I give it a fewe seconds and drops to 1000 or if it is a very hot day to 800.
On colder days it is more noticeable the idle glitch, in a way I have learned to live with it.
I always gave the fault to the engine mods, but I have exactly the same engine on my scort completely stock and behaves the same although not so drastic. The modded breathes much better so the change is more pronounced.
Just something to look into as it has helped in my case, move maybe one or two teeth clockwise (if I am correct) on the AFM to make the flap a little stiffer, it usually helps a lot on the idle issue besides messing around with the TB idle screw, and makes it less drastic rpm change from driving to smooth idling usually like you state from 1200 to 800 or so...
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