I a saw some high compression piston for same for a bp and I have no idea if it will work or want I have to change in the engine to make it work.So if some one can help me it will be nice
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01+ Miata has 10:1 c/r pistons, go to rockauto.com and order them under that listing. Choose your proper bore, and grab some rings.
ebay has some YPC? pistons for sale, around the same c/r and double the price.-Jack
ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/
91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)
01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested
91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606
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asides from machine work, nope.-Jack
ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/
91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)
01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested
91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606
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ok seriously man, do something asides asking questions...if you dont know what machine work is needed to install pistons into an engine block you shouldn't be doing this lol....i tried helping.-Jack
ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/
91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)
01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested
91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606
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I think he meant: is there any machine work that is required besides the regular machine work. (When fitting standard pistons. )My family has lots of bg's!
2003 Ford Escort ZX2: Project car/future daily driver. Built Ford Tough (With Mazda Stuff)
1999 Escort ZX2: Daily driver/beater. Going to be replaced by the '03 next summer.
2000 Escort ZX2 S/R: bought wrecked, going to use as parts car
1992 Protege LX: My old race car. Just a wrecked shell right now. Waiting for scrap to go up so that I can get rid of it.
1992 Mazda 323: Race car
1992 Escort Gt: My grandpa's old race car
1994 Escort GT: My grandpa's new race car.
Parts cars; 1993 Escort Gt, 1995 Escort lx
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yeah when you install new pistons, or rather the new piston rings, you gotta hone the cylinder walls to get a fresh cross hatch pattern in there to break the rings in properly! if you don't hone the rings won't seat and break in right and it'll burn oil and have lowish compression, I know from experience ROFL! 2nd engine rebuild is always better than the 1st
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Don't forget to properly break in the new rings after spending all that money1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
2010 VW routon
Originally posted by jay.....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?
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Head bolts stretch. If you know how to test how much they've stretch then you can see if you can reuse them
Arp head studs replace headbolts and can be reused1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
2010 VW routon
Originally posted by jay.....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?
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yeah I woulda liked to get ARP head studs but funds would not allow, I've reused the head bolts on my blue car build, and my black car I had to reuse them 2 times, so far so good but I would recommend ARP studs and YES break in that engine properly, run it at 2k rpm to 3k rpm for 10-15 min on the first start up, then after that take it out on the streets and in 1st gear FLOOR IT to about 4,500 rpm and take your foot off the gas, repeat about 10 times, 4,500 rpm to idle in 1st with out using the brakes, then make sure for at least 500 miles you don't do the same rpm for too long, if you must drive highway go between 4th and 5th every mile or so. and dump your oil at like 100 miles and 500 miles at least, that will break it in good, and lots of downshifting to slow down, the vacuum helps seat rings, OH and after you get it running and such, and do your 1st gear pulls, find a BIG hill, and CLIMB wide open throttle not going above 5k rpm, don't go above 5k rpm till 1000 miles, I waited till 2k to open my engine up and it doesn't spit a lick of oil out and it runs like a dreaaaaaam, I dumped my oil at 75 miles, then 500, then 1000 and went full synthetic.
good luck!
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