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Dissection of an Outer CV joint

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    Dissection of an Outer CV joint

    well, on my gray 4WD, I had a wierd noise that sounds like a wheel bearing. Up on jackstands, got out the stethescope, and listened to the hubs while the car was "driving". Seemed pretty quiet, BUT the outer CV boot was ripped about 2/3 of the circumference. I pulled the axle, and decided to take it apart and inspect it even though I'm getting a new one, just to see how bad this actually is (if bad at all). I figured to take some pics along the way, as I've never really seen any, and thought it might be interesting for other people who haven't either.

    Here's the axle after taking it out:


    Boot is ripped pretty severely. Not sure when that happened.


    there's grease inside, but that spot in the middle has me concerned. looks like dirt/grit/something has maybe found a home inside.


    I cleaned out the grease with a rag, pushed the boot up the axle, and cleaned the exposed part of the joint.




    I made sure the joint was articulated, then tapped on the inner cage to pop it off the end of the axle shaft.
    Here you can see it's splined:


    here you can see the end of the shaft. it's got one of those circlips, just like the part of the axle that goes into the differential.


    here's a look into the outer joint, without the axle shaft in the way:


    another shot of the removed joint. You can actually just buy the joint itself and replace it if needed, but it's a PITA sometimes.


    started to remove the innards of the joint. Never having done this before, I just started rotating it around and watching what happened:


    Basically, you need to rotate the inner AND outer cages to free the ball bearings. i couldn't quite do it by hand, so I used a punch to pry a little bit:


    here you can see that the ball is now no longer blocked by the outer shell


    Once the first ball came out, the cages rolled around much better, and I was able to remove all the other balls. Here it is with all balls removed. (this photo was taken after the whole thing had been done, for reference)


    Once they were out it's pretty specific. The outer cage has two of the six holes that are slightly larger than the others. These two larger holes are very important. First, the inner cage needs to turn 90° to the outer cage, and one of the "teeth" fits into one of the slots of the outer cage, giving enough room to roll the inner cage out.




    Once the inner cage is out, you then rotate the outer cage, aligning those two bigger holes with the "teeth" of the shell. then you can lift the outer cage right out:


    So, here's everything taken apart:





    --sarge
    Last edited by SgtRauksauff; 12-15-2011, 11:31 AM.

    #2
    Then I like taking pictures of shiny bits of metal in cars, so here are a few more just for fun. They also happen to show some detail on the wear of the parts.











    Here's the inside of the shell note the "scallops" on the area where the balls travel. I'm not sure if they're supposed to be that way. fingertip sensation felt like they were slightly ridged there. Which, in my mind, is NOT supposed to be how they are.





    And here's some photos of the outer cage. Notice it's not really nice and shiny, but there are worn and dull areas on it:
    This photo shows the "regular" holes in the cage:


    This photo shows the "large" holes in the cage:


    An artsy-fartsy photo through the inside of the cage, looking at the opposite large hole:


    And here's the inner cage. those lines on it are NOT from fingerprints. Once again leading to my belief that this joint has had grit or something to cause the metal to wear improperly.



    Anyways, those are all the pics I took. I didn't bother trying to re-assemble, as I'm betting it's kinda tricky, plus I'm replacing the axle anyways.

    Hopefully, this will either help people, or just give them more information on how this works.

    Comment


      #3
      Um yeah stick a fork in it. It's done. Good dissection though.
      '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
      '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
      http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

      Comment


        #4
        that's pretty neat
        sigpic

        03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
        92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

        Comment


          #5
          I shoulda taken pix of the one we blew up at the rally. That bearing cage? 3 chunks, most of the balls went right through the housing and are on the stage road somewhere, the tulip survived mostly intact but I won't be keeping it as a spare...
          '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
          '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
          http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

          Comment


            #6
            Do you still have the pictures that went along with the joint dissection? I need to take apart my outer joint and was hoping the pics would be here as a guide.

            Comment


              #7
              I have to change my cv boot this weekend

              Comment


                #8
                Nevermind, I don't need the pics. I found a video that describes it pretty good. Search for "Eric the Car Guy" on Youtube.

                Comment


                  #9
                  um, pics are still there, at least for me. I never took them down.

                  --sarge

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Strange, they don't show up on my computer, but like I said, I don't need them anymore. Thanks, though.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      awesomely informative sarge. thanks for the writeup
                      ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                      1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                      I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                      he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Hello Sarge

                        Looking on the forum to see what the outer joint looks like when taken apart. Thanks.

                        Between my current 323 (9 Years old this week with 201 000 kms on the clock) and the previous one (300 000 km's) I have never had to
                        change a outer boot until now.

                        I will collect the boot on the way home (using the wife's 2009 VW Citi Golf 1.4i Sport lowered and all, nippy little car)as the 323 is up on ramps
                        just waiting for the boot. Prepared every thing last night. I wanted to whack the outer off as it felt like it could have had a retaining clip on the inside
                        but caution got the better of me (the manual does not seem to contain what this looks like, except saying do not strip the outer). I then removed the
                        inner CV joint from the drive shaft for the boot change on the outer joint.

                        But your info here will certainly help later on again, printed to pdf and will place in my manual.

                        Oh yes, I will be doing the headlight upgrade this week end, bought all the spares over the week end.

                        Thanks again,

                        Flyingfish.

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