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    Axle stuck in transmission

    I'm looking for some help.

    I've got an Escort with a BP that has a Kia G-series transmission. The trans has a KaAZ LSD in it. My problem is that the drivers side axle is stuck in the trans. I believe that the circlip has somehow jammed and that is what is keeping the axle from coming out. I have to get the axle out to split the trans case because I have a problem with my reverse gear.

    Right now the trans is out of the car. Is there anybody that has had this problem who can help me?

    #2
    can you possibly get a small punch through the other side? Not familiar with the Kaz LSD.
    -Steve

    94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
    VF10 powered!
    262 Whp & 257 Wtq
    13.1@107

    '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

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      #3
      I just pulled the driver and passenger side axels from my E-series transmission I'm selling like 20 minutes ago... I rented a slide pull hammer from advance (140$ full refund), it's the ONLY way I've been able to pull axels out. prybars don't work for me. I used the long "hook" and a ratchet strap to clamp it down to the side, then give it a yank or 2, it comes out easy.

      this is what I'm talking about..I'm sure there's other better ways of going about this, but it works, I just happened to have a ratchet strap laying around that was junk with a knot in it anyway.





      I ripped the passenger side out on purpose, to make it easier to get the transmission out of the engine bay so I could do other work.. it had 170k miles, was good but not really worth reusing, it's gonna make a better strut tower brace when I get time to fab up some brackets ^.^
      Last edited by zoom-zoom; 01-25-2012, 09:45 PM.
      1993 Ford Festiva - Fiona/b6 swap
      1997 Ford Aspire - Peaspire/rescued restored and sold
      1994 Ford Aspire - Kiazord/BPG5MR Swap
      1999 Mazda 626 - exDD, sold
      1997 Ford Aspire - Babyspire, stock low miles&clean
      1994 Ford Aspire - Crustyspire, scrapped
      2003 Chrysler T&C - grocery getter

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        #4
        Cats paw and a 5lb hammer 30s tops

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          #5
          most of the time they will come out with a prybar and a big hammer. it needs to have the jolt from the hammer in order to make it come out. constant pressure wont make it come out give it a good hit and it will come out. having the right sized prybar helps too.
          bp swapped escort lx, gtr ecu, gtr intake manifold, A code VAF, rx7 460cc injectors, ky clutch, holset hy35 turbo on 8lbs, 38mm tial wastegate, ramhorn manifold, full 3 inch ss exhaust, walbro 255 fuel pump

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            #6
            smashed my finger and finally got cv out 2 days later alot of blood sweat and tears good luck
            swapping into another shell!

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              #7
              i usually use my 4' MAC tools pry bar... i have had a stubborn one once that i had to use a chisel on each side and hammer them in between the case and axle like a wedged to pop out

              how does that LSD hold up? what kind of power are you putting through it?
              Last edited by fastivab6tg25mr; 01-26-2012, 02:42 PM.
              i know its a piece of crap... but im still faster...

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                #8
                Still no luck. I put the trans back in the car to keep it more stable while using a slide hammer on just the inner cup and stub, but the 3 jaw attachment can't hold on.

                The KaAZ diff itself is a clutch/plate type so I can't hit the stuck axle from the back side. I am very pleased with the performance of the diff. It's a 1.5 way that is built to lock more/quicker under deceleration. It works great to get the nose to tuck in with lift throttle, and just awesome rally crossing. I'm not putting much power through the diff, just a built n/a motor running the stock ecu. Even so I'm faster than all but the most highly tuned awd cars at Colorado RX events. The car might see a turbo down the line, but I've got to get the trans work done first. ;-)

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                  #9
                  the trick is getting the slide hammer to have grip for a second.. if your junking the axels, you could pull the inner cv apart and drill a hole in the cup and tie to the pull hammer. If your interested I'll ship the same ratchet strap I used to you for the price of shipping. I hopefully won't be needing it for awhile, and I've got more layin around anyway.
                  1993 Ford Festiva - Fiona/b6 swap
                  1997 Ford Aspire - Peaspire/rescued restored and sold
                  1994 Ford Aspire - Kiazord/BPG5MR Swap
                  1999 Mazda 626 - exDD, sold
                  1997 Ford Aspire - Babyspire, stock low miles&clean
                  1994 Ford Aspire - Crustyspire, scrapped
                  2003 Chrysler T&C - grocery getter

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                    #10
                    Finally got the stub out. Wound up using a dremmel to make notches to put the claws of the slide hammer into.

                    Thanks everybody who replied.

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