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    #1

    Help - Check engine light on and off

    Ok, so after getting off the freeway the other day I realize that I had quite a bit of smokey steam coming from under the hood. So I pull over and find that I'm missing my radiator cap. Odd as this was I shrugged it off and kept driving, just joking. I left it where it was and replaced the cap the next day. That didn't seem to have solved the problem though and I later narrowed it down to a stuck closed thermostat which I replaced. That seemed to have solved the problem of too much heat and my fan started engaging again. But now, my check engine light is coming on and off but only after I've been driving on the freeway above 65 for 10 minutes or so and it stays on until I've either been driving slower for awhile or restart the car. I've already tried leaving the battery unplugged to reset the ECU.
    Any ideas?
    Tags: None
    #2
    well resetting the ecu wont help being that it is a obd1 computer id say your best choice is to buy a scanner and scan it get the code and go from there you should be able to get a scanner to pull the code for like 50 to 80 dollars.
    mods: engine: fm stroker lightened and knifedged crank, 11:1, custom crank scraper, fully p&p head and intake mani, bored throttle body, flowed and matched stock injectors, rx7 vaf, apexi safc, gude race cams, modded ecu 8200 fuel cutoff, blaster coil, clutchmasters stage 3 clutch, fidanza fly wheel and timeing gears, msp diff, custom shortram in a cold air box

    suspension: s/r struts intrack springs and intrax sway bars 15x6.5 rims kumho mx tires 205 50 r 15

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by escortkid
      well resetting the ecu wont help being that it is a obd1 computer id say your best choice is to buy a scanner and scan it get the code and go from there you should be able to get a scanner to pull the code for like 50 to 80 dollars.
      No no no. You don't need a scanner. You have a diagnostic box on your firewall. It's small and black and between your battery and your firewall. Jump ground and #10 with the key in the on position and the check engine light will flash. Count the flashes and this will tell you what the code is.

      1) Jump the TEN and GND terminals at the DIAGNOSTIC test connector.

      2) Put tranny in neutral, turn off all accessories, turn the ignition "ON" but don't start.

      3) The check engine light should blink the code.
      a)first digit = long intervals
      b)second digit = short intervals

      TROUBLE CODE CIRCUIT/SYSTEM
      02 Distributor Ne-signal
      03 Distributor G-signal
      08 Airflow sensor
      09 Coolant temp. sensor
      10 Intake air temp. sensor
      12 TPS
      14 BPS
      15 O2 sensor
      17 O2 sensor
      25 FPR solenoid valve
      26 Solenoid valve (purge control)
      34 IAC valve
      41 Solenoid valve (VICS)
      Last edited by Jho; 03-20-2006, 06:56 PM.

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by Jho
        No no no. You don't need a scanner. You have a diagnostic box on your firewall. It's small and black and between your battery and your firewall. Jump ground and #10 with the key in the on position and the check engine light will flash. Count the flashes and this will tell you what the code is.

        1) Jump the TEN and GND terminals at the DIAGNOSTIC test connector.

        2) Put tranny in neutral, turn off all accessories, turn the ignition "ON" but don't start.

        3) The check engine light should blink the code.
        a)first digit = long intervals
        b)second digit = short intervals

        TROUBLE CODE CIRCUIT/SYSTEM
        02 Distributor Ne-signal
        03 Distributor G-signal
        08 Airflow sensor
        09 Coolant temp. sensor
        10 Intake air temp. sensor
        12 TPS
        14 BPS
        15 O2 sensor
        17 O2 sensor
        25 FPR solenoid valve
        26 Solenoid valve (purge control)
        34 IAC valve
        41 Solenoid valve (VICS)


        Wow, thanks for that I had no idea you could do that with the diag. box. So when I turn it to the on position, if it were a zero first would it jump right into the short intervals? If that's the case then it does two long intervals and seven short... And I don't see a 27 on your list. Or it's a 17 if you start counting after the first time it goes out and comes back on.. But an O2 sensor wouldn't fit my problem. I'll check the 02 sensor and coolant temp sens with a multimeter and see what that shows.
        Last edited by TheStock; 03-21-2006, 04:12 PM.

        Comment

          #5
          Ok, so after checking the O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, and restting the ECU I still had the problem of the light coming on and off. So I broke down and took it to a local mechanic to have it diagnosed. They too read the code as a 17 and determined the light was coming from my O2 sensor because it was a universal instead of an O.E. " Code 17 - Oxygen sensor not switching at an idle, seems to be biased lean at cruise." I've picked up an O.E. sensor and will probably put it in tomorrow.

          Comment

            #6
            sometimes that stuff happens if it doesnt fix it them sounds like youll be into one of those long diag processes.
            mods: engine: fm stroker lightened and knifedged crank, 11:1, custom crank scraper, fully p&p head and intake mani, bored throttle body, flowed and matched stock injectors, rx7 vaf, apexi safc, gude race cams, modded ecu 8200 fuel cutoff, blaster coil, clutchmasters stage 3 clutch, fidanza fly wheel and timeing gears, msp diff, custom shortram in a cold air box

            suspension: s/r struts intrack springs and intrax sway bars 15x6.5 rims kumho mx tires 205 50 r 15

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by escortkid
              sometimes that stuff happens if it doesnt fix it them sounds like youll be into one of those long diag processes.
              Don't discourage the guy.

              Originally posted by TheStock
              Ok, so after checking the O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, and restting the ECU I still had the problem of the light coming on and off. So I broke down and took it to a local mechanic to have it diagnosed. They too read the code as a 17 and determined the light was coming from my O2 sensor because it was a universal instead of an O.E. " Code 17 - Oxygen sensor not switching at an idle, seems to be biased lean at cruise." I've picked up an O.E. sensor and will probably put it in tomorrow.
              Good luck with that man, hopefully it fixes your problem.

              Comment

                #8
                this might sound like a dumb question coming from a car noobie like me, but what kinda wire should i use to jump the terminals with?

                Comment

                  #9
                  you can use a paperclip

                  93' 5spd DX
                  R.I.P

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Just realized I hadn't responded yet to my lost post. I installed the OE O2 sensor and my problem has been solved ever since. The car no longer stumbles at a dead stop and doesn't stumble when going up an incline and I haven't seen the check engine light either.
                    Thanks for the help guys.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Question: Is the car a DOHC or SOHC? I have an SOHC and was wondering if these diagnostic codes and jumper settings work for both. (That's good stuff, Jho! Thanks!)

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by cat34evr
                        Question: Is the car a DOHC or SOHC? I have an SOHC and was wondering if these diagnostic codes and jumper settings work for both. (That's good stuff, Jho! Thanks!)
                        Mine is also a SOHC

                        Comment

                          #13
                          yea the codes work for both
                          stock blaze red 1992 Mazda Protege DX 5 Speed

                          Comment

                            #14
                            This should be a sticky
                            c+p>c<c+d1>c+p<m+d2>m<m+f>f<c+p>m<m+f>f<f+s1>c+p<c +s2>c<c+p>

                            2002 Mazda Protégé 5 , 5-speed , poly engine mounts , 4 to 1 header , JIC-Magic semi titanium cat back , custom CAI , Tokiko hp struts , Vogtland springs , Mazdaspeed sway-bar kit , Megan racing TTL's , Megan Racing trailing arms , pedders control arm bushings , corksport clutch line and shifter bushings , Tiger Tuning rear panel with V brace , Black sedan headlights with 6000k H.I.D.'s , M3 mirrors , Audio by Alpine , Kicker and just getting started.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by TheStock
                              Just realized I hadn't responded yet to my lost post. I installed the OE O2 sensor and my problem has been solved ever since. The car no longer stumbles at a dead stop and doesn't stumble when going up an incline and I haven't seen the check engine light either.
                              Thanks for the help guys.

                              Good to hear that you fixed the problem.

                              Comment

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