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    #31
    Originally posted by TRRC View Post
    SPACERS ARE A BAD IDEA UNLESS YOU ARE BUILDING A DEDICATED TRACK CAR WITH A PRO BEHIND THE WHEEL.
    Actually spacers are never a good idea. Unless the spacers have PHENOMINALLY close tolerances, the spacer cannot absorb torque placed by forces like accelerating and braking (or just sitting still if you are not hubcentric). Instead of the wheelstuds only absorbing loads in single shear, they now also have a bending torque about the base of the stud.

    This means that you have greatly increased chances of bending the studs, and I mean greatly, with spacers. They shouldn't be used.

    Instead, the correct sized wheel should be used!!!
    .

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      #32
      So assuming the information on this website is a bunch of bull about adapters and spacers. I just want to get some opinion. Heres the website:

      Comment


        #33
        Skulte makes good products.

        But the way you're planning on using adapters, and the way they are intended to be used, are different in this case!!! You'd be thrusting the wheels outward, which changes the track of the vehicle.

        In order to safely use adapters your centerline must not move inboard or outboard. This basically means you must use crazy positive offset wheels just to properly use an adapter. Your bearings are going to see an average torque on the spindles. This means you should not be changing the track between the centerlines of the tires.

        It even says so in the Skulte FAQ
        Originally posted by skulte
        Do the bolt-on wheel adapters increase the load on suspension parts?
        The suspension loads are only affected by the centerline of the tire. Billet adapters usually correct offset issues when bolting newer style high offset wheels onto older cars that were designed with low offset wheels. A wheel with a 51mm offset and a 2" adapter is identical to the suspension as a 0mm factory wheel. This loads are the same on the wheel studs, bearings, bushings, because the wheel is in exactly the same location on the car.

        If it helps, imagine two identical wheels, with only the offset being different. Bolt the 2" adapter to the 51mm offset wheel, and it will measure exactly the same as the 0mm offset wheel.
        Then also...

        Originally posted by skulte
        Will my studs break if I use bolt on wheel adapters?
        No, the loads on the studs are identical to just bolting on wheels if the centerline is the same. Slip-on spacers will increase stud loads.
        This verifies all of what people have said here. Both sites are giving you good information. If you intend to use adapters to give you the 4/5 lug conversion you need space, and the space will alter your centerline in a very bad way which will cause premature bearing failure.
        .

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          #34
          I decided not to use the adapters and sell the wheels and the wheels are sold. Receiving a certified check in the mail in a couple of days. And the person that bought the wheels will send a mover to pickup the wheels after I received and cashed the check.

          Right now I'm concentrating on getting my OEM GTR front bumper cover painted before I mount the puppy. Made some repairs on the urethane with some epoxy and some sanding now for a new coat.

          And installing a new stereo, the diagram that I downloaded didn't quite match up on the speaker wires, so some testing here and there with a 9v battery to make sure the corresponding wires goes to the correct speakers.
          Last edited by Dijadoit; 04-05-2007, 10:31 PM.

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            #35
            a 9v battery? you dont have a multimeter?
            sigpic

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              #36
              I just look at the speaker visually, if the woofer moves forward it good and also tells me the voice coils are still in tacked. Sure I could use a multimeter to see if the frequency is reaching its destination but doesn't tell me if the speaker coils
              are good or so.

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                #37
                Originally posted by Dijadoit View Post
                I just look at the speaker visually, if the woofer moves forward it good and also tells me the voice coils are still in tacked. Sure I could use a multimeter to see if the frequency is reaching its destination but doesn't tell me if the speaker coils are good or so.
                Hmmm.

                Well, if the voltage can travel through the coils when the speak coils are intact, and you know the coil is burned out if the woofer does not move - that means the wire is continuous without breaks.

                You can test continuity with a multimeter. You can also test the resistance of the coil to see if it is within spec.
                .

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                  #38
                  Lets say for me, its the fast way of doing it. Not really necessary using the multimeter. I used to do it that way in the early 90's when I installed car stereo
                  as a hobby. Which is old school but it works, now you have these fancy amps with built in eq and adjustable channels. That says I've been out of it for a long time. Now I built computers as a hobby, now thats when I use the multimeter.

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