1990 Mazda Protege
Symptom- All four power windows stopped working suddenly both from drivers door switches and all other door switches
- Found that the pin inside the harness-to-switch connector supplying power to the switch pack was not making contact with its mate in the switch pack. There was 12V+ (black wire with white stripe) and ground (black wire) at the harness plug, but not coming out the other side of the connector into the switch. Bending the pin in the switch connector about 2mm restored the connection
What I did to isolate the problem:
- checked fuse at fusebox- ok, replaced just to be sure
- removed master switch box in drivers door panel. You can remove the switch box easily without removing the door panel- Push a thin flat blade screw driver under the front edge of the switch trim between the trim and the panel firmly so as to push back the metal clip that hold the switch panel down. There are two halves to the clip, so push in on either side under the center of the of the panel trim to release both halves. pry up to remove the switch panel.
- on the switch box circuit board- remove the the cover over the flat leads from the switch box connector to the switch box circuit board. test for 12V+ on the lead from the black/white wire, check for continuity with the chassis on the black ground wire.
Here's what the switch pack looks like. The center lead is ground, either the upper right or upper left lead is 12v+
Hopefully this helps someone else. The actual switch units seem pretty stout, I'd guess many issues like this are related to bad connections.
Symptom- All four power windows stopped working suddenly both from drivers door switches and all other door switches
- Found that the pin inside the harness-to-switch connector supplying power to the switch pack was not making contact with its mate in the switch pack. There was 12V+ (black wire with white stripe) and ground (black wire) at the harness plug, but not coming out the other side of the connector into the switch. Bending the pin in the switch connector about 2mm restored the connection
What I did to isolate the problem:
- checked fuse at fusebox- ok, replaced just to be sure
- removed master switch box in drivers door panel. You can remove the switch box easily without removing the door panel- Push a thin flat blade screw driver under the front edge of the switch trim between the trim and the panel firmly so as to push back the metal clip that hold the switch panel down. There are two halves to the clip, so push in on either side under the center of the of the panel trim to release both halves. pry up to remove the switch panel.
- on the switch box circuit board- remove the the cover over the flat leads from the switch box connector to the switch box circuit board. test for 12V+ on the lead from the black/white wire, check for continuity with the chassis on the black ground wire.
Here's what the switch pack looks like. The center lead is ground, either the upper right or upper left lead is 12v+
Hopefully this helps someone else. The actual switch units seem pretty stout, I'd guess many issues like this are related to bad connections.
Thanks again to member gooseinyou for the familia garnish
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