94 LX cuts off driving down the road,

[Raider9864]

I'm guessing he replaced the FPR control solenoid...

[323Permin]

@ mazdapowered... really the neutral switch does this ???

I have been having the same issues with my DD and I to am completely stumped .

I have traced all the grounds, power cables, swapped out sensors , spark plug wires, coil, ignitor , condensor, cooltant temp sensor , heat gauge unit, fan thermo switch, ecu , VAF.. CPU,

The car just dies !!! no power to the coil. And no CEL codes in the ECU with I check .

But when it dies and I unplug and plug back in the primary wire connector to the coil ( Blue and Yellow/ Blue wire ) it will reset itself and it will start.

Its F*in driving me nuts ....

I know its an electrical some where , but where is the circuit breaking or making the ecu shut down ?????

Anyone ??? the car is in great shape only 207000 Kms... but if I cant figure this out I am driving it over a very tall cliff. :0)

[gofanu]

323Permin -
from my notes:
Y/L = IG -- = from igniter & coil & tach {Coil B+ is supplied direct from IGN switch via L = blue wire, which has a suppression capacitor in it via connectors and grounded via a B/O}

Om other words, there is no ECU involved except in triggering the igniter.
L is power direct from the key.
Y/L is ground from the coil through the igniter when triggered.

I will suggest that you have a problem with a broken wire inside the insulation or a bad connector probably at the coil. When you disturb it, you make contact, then it breaks again from vibration etc. If you can backprobe the L at the connector, while it is dead and without moving anything, you can maybe figure out which wire is bad.

I recently had a lot of trouble with my daughter's 323 after fixing a bunch of bad wires to the fuel pump. Whenever I grabbed the connector under the seat the pump would start, and I always had voltage when checking. When I let go of it the pump would die. Careful look showed the power pin in the connector was black - which means it has been hot from bad connection or overload. The female half had lost its spring from being hot, and both parts were oxidised black. I reached in the connector with needle nose and bent the pin a few different ways, which broke up some of the oxide and put some tension on the connection, coated it with OxGard grease, and voila!

I had this situation on a Cummins diesel; the fuel would shutoff at random. Sometimes it would restart if you kicked it out of gear and let the engine stop completely - the fuel solenoid will not open against pressure. Since there is only one wire involved, you always check it when it dies, and it always restarted immediately. After a year of the truck dying on the road, I finally pulled on the wire while looking through a magnifying glass. There was about .010" movement where the wire was crimped in the connector. One new connector fixed it!

FRM