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    BP-T is calling me....

    Ok, I never thought of me buying a BP-T motor but....
    Yesterday I raced a 96-00 civic DX and i smoked him big time. At the light he asked me," is that TURBO?", I told him no its just a swap DOHC with h/i.

    On my way to a friends party, My friend with the GSR told me that he just got smoked from a friend of ours that just bought a used 92 civic hatch and we dont know wut he got under the hood.

    My other friend w/ an Accord sedan and a racecar CRX is done with his mini-me swap sohc vtec.

    All my friends are planning on hitting 14's this summer and my car is running 15's only (estimate time) I want people to give me props If i beat them not say Hey u cheated u got Nitrous!!! So, I'm thinking of getting the turbo.

    The bpt is only $1,380 thats cheap compare to honda motors but how come not much 323/pro have this engine? Is there any problems with this motors?
    How much do you guys think I will be spending If i do, do a bpt swap on my 323? I heard just to get it on the engine bay and running (stock bpt) it'll cost me $5,000???? is this for reals?

    #2
    LMFAO, it wont cost your $5G's. Well obvisouly you have everything for the motor since you did the DOHC swap. Of course there are things you can buy to make it $5K. You dont NEED these, but a BOV and intercooler should be put on, but thats about $300 for both. I would definitly do it, but after you get turbo you'll always want more. =)
    James G.
    sobe83@yahoo.com
    AIM: DVS 323BPT
    MySpace
    Cardomain
    <BR>

    <marquee>Turbonetics T3/T4, RC 550cc injectors, Walbro fuel pump, SSAutochrome Miata manifold, Tial 35mm wastegate, large FMIC, Apex-I SAFC, GReddy Type S BOV, 2.5" aluminum charge pipes, NGK plugs/wires, RX-7 VAM, 3" turbo-back exhaust, ARP head studs, H&R Springs, S/R struts, Sony XPlod deck-2/12" subs, Power Acoustic 800w amp, Pioneer speakers, Evo front bumper, ADR DV8 17" wheels.</marquee>

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      #3
      just buy a front clip..., they end up bieng like 2400 shipped :D ,

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        #4
        My remaining shopping list for the swap comes out to ~$2500 (I already have the engine/harness/ECU -- I paid $1050 shipped for all of it). I don't think everything on my list is required, so your total for just the minimum might be a little less.

        I know you will need:
        Intercooler
        Piping
        BOV
        Boost Controller
        Engine Management (I've heard of people running on the stock ECU, but you would probly be better of with either the BPT ECU or Haltec)
        Fuel Pump
        Downpipe/Exhaust
        Clutch
        Possibly AFC
        You can gauge cost from there. There might be more, but that's all I could remember off the top of my head.
        2013 Dodge Dart Aero

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          #5
          See thats really all extras, to get it in an running doesnt cost that much at all.
          James G.
          sobe83@yahoo.com
          AIM: DVS 323BPT
          MySpace
          Cardomain
          <BR>

          <marquee>Turbonetics T3/T4, RC 550cc injectors, Walbro fuel pump, SSAutochrome Miata manifold, Tial 35mm wastegate, large FMIC, Apex-I SAFC, GReddy Type S BOV, 2.5" aluminum charge pipes, NGK plugs/wires, RX-7 VAM, 3" turbo-back exhaust, ARP head studs, H&R Springs, S/R struts, Sony XPlod deck-2/12" subs, Power Acoustic 800w amp, Pioneer speakers, Evo front bumper, ADR DV8 17" wheels.</marquee>

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            #6
            right now im saving for a gtx....i dont care if its a stock gtx swap but i just want it to run to start with then work on it from there....btw marc where did you get the motor harnes and ecu for that price from????im so interested....
            91 323 GTX @ 16psi, 5 speed || December 07 R.O.T.M.
            Powered by MegaSquirt I PCB3, Tuned by Lex

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              #7
              NO! Stay NA, there aren't enough of us. You could do a pretty good NA build for $5000. peep dis

              Flyin' Miata is the world leader in Miata performance and well-engineered, proven Miata MX5 components. We offer parts for a full range of Mazda Miata, MX5 and Eunos Roadsters vehicles.


              I'm running 15.7 right now, and it'll be 15.4 in two weeks, after I'm done tuning my cam/cam gears and hit the track. If you had MY engine, you'd be in the 14s with your little 323. Come on man...have patience, and think about how rewarding the NA build-up will be....

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                #8
                sorry id take a turbo motor any day of the week over a na motor
                91 323 GTX @ 16psi, 5 speed || December 07 R.O.T.M.
                Powered by MegaSquirt I PCB3, Tuned by Lex

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by redfox
                  sorry id take a turbo motor any day of the week over a na motor
                  If the two cars were just as quick, and you could never open the hood to show off the engine, which would you pick?

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                    #10
                    if i could never open the hood?? id go to canada and buy a turbo geo metro
                    Last edited by redfox; 07-11-2004, 09:23 PM.
                    91 323 GTX @ 16psi, 5 speed || December 07 R.O.T.M.
                    Powered by MegaSquirt I PCB3, Tuned by Lex

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Gen1GT
                      If the two cars were just as quick, and you could never open the hood to show off the engine, which would you pick?
                      i would pick the one that didnt need high ass octane fuel... and im going n/a too btw lol!
                      Serenity's Dead.

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                        #12
                        I really don't see the point in purchaseing a GTX turbo motor. I mean the only real benefit you are getting is the turbo, manifold, harness and ecu (maybe) and some plumbing.

                        You have already completed 80% of your work by dropping in the BP into the 323. At this point you should just consider droping a turbo into the car in an effort to produce more power.

                        Your options as I see it.

                        As per Manifolds
                        - Get a custom manifold made, this can be on the expensive side of things.

                        - Use a log style set up manifold, this is more cost efficient and wil require some fitment guidance by you or the shop who does the welds.

                        As for Turbo's

                        - You can spend the 1300 for the GTX motor. Ofcourse your basically paying for the Turbo, intake manifold, injectors and ecu + a few other things.
                        Of course you can obtain these same parts for way less than 1300 and remeber you already have the BP in your 323 ....

                        - You can just order the vj20 manifold from corksport or similar site, or purchase a turbo and manifold from someone that owns a gtx and wants to upgrade ... ( about 400-600)

                        - You can also do the research on Turbo's and get a good sized T28, T3, or T3/T4 or equivalent and then get a log many and have the flanges welded on and set everything up.

                        You can also basically get your injectors and so forth from other turbo mazda's or ford probes or other combatible vehicles.

                        There are plenty of ways to build a turbo kit that won't cost a serious hit to your pockets .. There are as needed items and there are needed items. Once you know the difference between the two, your money will go a long way.

                        Me personally, I don't think it's worth it to purchase a GTX motor .. especially when you have a competent motor already sitting in your protege/323. It's a shame most people don't realize this. Ofcourse if you have a Blown BP or really stressed BP, then I understand.

                        Otherwise, with a little extra work, you can have a lot more accomplished.

                        Also look into limpgtx's set up.. he has a t3/t4 in his 323 ....
                        I still think he is nuts though, as I sware this 323 is fast enough na, much less with a vj20, but damit with a t3/t4 ......

                        for gods sake..
                        sweet. lol..

                        later yall.
                        photo album|photo album 2 (pbase)

                        dbest1a AT yahoo DOT com

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                          #13
                          As for NA, that is also not a bad idea..
                          It will just take a lot more work and tons of frigin dyno time, which on the east cost can not be found for cheap. (dyno time).

                          However a 323 with the vj20 is supposed to be a 13 second car... easy..

                          that's why mine has the vj20 going into it after I swap the clutch.
                          photo album|photo album 2 (pbase)

                          dbest1a AT yahoo DOT com

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                            #14
                            A 323 with a vj20 is easily a 13 second car ON SLICKS. I'd go with the gtx motor over a BP. Yah the BPT head does suck ass, but thats an easy enough part to get ahold of. With the BPT your getting a forged crank and some low compression pistons that can handle a good amount. I'm running 18 psi (traction limits) on my BPT with stock internals and a FMIC and its running fine. Go slap a t3/t4 on a BP and crank up the boost, see how long that'll last. Then you gotta buy pistons, new crank etc. The BP limits are what...8psi? Trust me, that gets bored after one week... You might be saying "yah well its a pain in the ass to do a head swap"...you gotta take it off anyways to put new pistons in, and you might as well put a new fresh head gasket too.
                            James G.
                            sobe83@yahoo.com
                            AIM: DVS 323BPT
                            MySpace
                            Cardomain
                            <BR>

                            <marquee>Turbonetics T3/T4, RC 550cc injectors, Walbro fuel pump, SSAutochrome Miata manifold, Tial 35mm wastegate, large FMIC, Apex-I SAFC, GReddy Type S BOV, 2.5" aluminum charge pipes, NGK plugs/wires, RX-7 VAM, 3" turbo-back exhaust, ARP head studs, H&R Springs, S/R struts, Sony XPlod deck-2/12" subs, Power Acoustic 800w amp, Pioneer speakers, Evo front bumper, ADR DV8 17" wheels.</marquee>

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Gen1GT
                              NO! Stay NA, there aren't enough of us. You could do a pretty good NA build for $5000. peep dis

                              Flyin' Miata is the world leader in Miata performance and well-engineered, proven Miata MX5 components. We offer parts for a full range of Mazda Miata, MX5 and Eunos Roadsters vehicles.


                              I'm running 15.7 right now, and it'll be 15.4 in two weeks, after I'm done tuning my cam/cam gears and hit the track. If you had MY engine, you'd be in the 14s with your little 323. Come on man...have patience, and think about how rewarding the NA build-up will be....
                              I've spent $2k on my turbo setup with some accessories. You spend $2k on your n/a motor and tell me how close to 300whp you are. BTW not trying to be an ass, just pointing out the facts that most protege owners dont have tons of cash to go fast.
                              James G.
                              sobe83@yahoo.com
                              AIM: DVS 323BPT
                              MySpace
                              Cardomain
                              <BR>

                              <marquee>Turbonetics T3/T4, RC 550cc injectors, Walbro fuel pump, SSAutochrome Miata manifold, Tial 35mm wastegate, large FMIC, Apex-I SAFC, GReddy Type S BOV, 2.5" aluminum charge pipes, NGK plugs/wires, RX-7 VAM, 3" turbo-back exhaust, ARP head studs, H&R Springs, S/R struts, Sony XPlod deck-2/12" subs, Power Acoustic 800w amp, Pioneer speakers, Evo front bumper, ADR DV8 17" wheels.</marquee>

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