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Cannot get off front rotors on a -91 Protege DX

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    Cannot get off front rotors on a -91 Protege DX

    Hi! Guys

    I have a 1991 Protege DX I'm fixing up from my son to start driving soon. I have not changed rotors on a Mazda before, so I just want to be sure that I don't have to loosen the axle shaft nut before I can get the old rotor of the front hub?

    If it is supposed to come straight off after the caliper is removed, it is stuck on there pretty good. I let er soke overnight in WD40 to see if that will help.

    I tried a 3-point pulley puller, but it wouldn't budge.....took it easy tho....still don't wanna do anything stupid....so I would like to aks the online guru's

    So if anyone have a trick up their sleeve it would be appreciated?

    Thanks

    Ron
    Kalispell, Montana

    1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (Medium modded)
    1991 Mazda Protege DX (1.8SOHC....stock)
    1974 Mercury Marquis Colony Park (460 -V8 Bigblock oh yeah)
    1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (300Hp @ crank mildly modded)
    1991 Mazda Protege DX

    #2
    Really it's just held in place by the caliper and pads, and the lug nuts while the wheels are on. No need to take off the axle nut. Have you tried just whacking it from behind with a rubber mallet?
    2006 Mazda 3 hatchback manual

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      #3
      Don't worry, my old rotors were a bitch to get off in my 99, I can only imagine how much harder it would be for a 91.
      Clint/1999 "Sport20"

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        #4
        once the wheel is pulled off, caliper and pads are removed, the rotor should be completely lose for removal.. losening the axle hub is NOT required.

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks guys, it was like I thought then, well these rotors are orginial with 128k miles on em, I did actually try a rubber mallot to wack it...but it was stuck on pretty darn good. I'll try again tomorrow to see if it loosned up a little. The hub had some surface rust on it......so that is easy to imagine it is on the pretty good.

          I've redone brakes on 7 cars total, cannot let a basic DX get to me......must not......
          1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (300Hp @ crank mildly modded)
          1991 Mazda Protege DX

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            #6
            what you should start by doing.... is not whacking the rotor.... that can become an expensive error... make sure you have the 2 phillips screws out that hold the rotor on the hub...... secondly remove the caliper w/pads. that will allow it to be free floating on the hub. whacking at any part of the rotor should be your last resort.... I completely broke a rotor on my old rear disc by hitting it. if all else fails remove the hub assembly from the tie rod ends /balljoint/strut. holding the rotor use force and lightly pummel the wheel studs from the hub assembly into the ground while holding onto the rotor. that should by any means remove the rotor if it is going to come free..... if you decide to take the route of removing the whole hub assembly be very carful not to break or knock out a wheel stud.
            else wise it is safe to hit the center section of the rotor where it bolts to the hub . but do not hit the contact surface.
            ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

            1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




            I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
            he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

            Comment


              #7
              My CRX had screws holding the rotor to the hub, the protege doesn't.
              _________________________________
              '12 Focus SE hatch
              '04 Eddie Bauer V8 4X4 Explorer
              '05 Saab 9-3 turbo (sold)
              '90 Mazda 323 GT (sold)
              '04 Mazda Tribute (sold)
              '92 Mazda Protege LX (sold)
              '91 Mazda Protege LX (blown engine)
              '91 Honda Prelude (totalled)
              '91 Honda CRX SI (sold)

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                #8
                There is currently no screws in the hub, but there is ONE hole that seem to fit a 6mm screw in there. I'll get one and screw it in there to see if it will come loose when I get home from work.

                Once again thank you guys for all input and expertise.
                Last edited by Shamans; 01-11-2005, 10:05 AM.
                1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (300Hp @ crank mildly modded)
                1991 Mazda Protege DX

                Comment


                  #9
                  just try that, put in the screw when the rotor moves a bit, just turn the screw in the opposite direction and it should come loose

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                    #10
                    The rear rotors are the ones with the screws then.... protege's do use screws. maybe not in the front tho. my error.
                    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Buy some REAL penetrating fluid.
                      Heat the bitch up with a torch and spray the **** on..
                      Certain Penetrating fluids say to hit gently on the piece with a hammer, as this sets up a vibration which supposedly helps the fluid penetrate better.
                      Ryan The middle child is always ignored
                      BP powered 97LX Touring Edition
                      Vibrant strut tower brace, KVR front brake pads, Tungsram Megalicht H4 headlight bulbs, Phillips Halogen H3 foglight bulbs.... 91 GT rims w/ 195 60 14 Yokohomo Mirada GTX sport

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