PICS: Replacing Axles, Snapped Link Nut

[mazdaclub]

the hardware store will have everything you need. get a grade 8 bolt and sleeve if you need it. that will never break

[mike_moss]

I'm sorry, but I'll have to disagree with most of you.

Only buy OEM ****. There's a reason it's sized the way it is. It's designed to be the weak link and break should it need to do so.

On one of my cars, the previous owner had this happen to him and just replaced it with some NAPA ****. Thing he didn't notice was the bolt was slightly larger diameter. The extra strength coupled with the old rusty bar, resulted in a broken swaybar. That's much more of a bitch to replace and a silly endlink.

So get the right ****!

...and next time don't remove that when swapping axles...it can be done without removing all of that stuff. I've done my axles many times...I only ever remove the lower suspension bolts and axle nut. You can then swing the hub out of the way of the axle and pop the axle out.

Cheers!

[FE3-323]

I'll have to disagree with you on this mike.
OEM endlinks are ****, & should not be replaced with more OEM ****.
Upgrade for cheaper then buying new oem parts.

I've tested the theory pretty well, even SS endlink bolts will not cause the swaybar to break. the bolts will bend first. If you compare the OEM bolt next to a SS bolt @ the hardware store the only way to screw up is if your a complete imbicielle.

Ryan

[FE3-323]

I also do not reccomend the E.S. kit. The bushings are the only part worth any value. Their hardware is junk as well. mind you the poly bushings can misform quite easily uunder the amount of stress they are subjected too. i've replaced mine a few times already.

[Silentbob343]

I also do not reccomend the E.S. kit. The bushings are the only part worth any value. Their hardware is junk as well. mind you the poly bushings can misform quite easily uunder the amount of stress they are subjected too. i've replaced mine a few times already.

LOL great. Oh well I guess I'll see for myself fairly soon.

[EricM]

update: like most people, the axle would just NOT come out of the tranny. So what i did was cut the old boot and pull the old axle out that way. the old tr**** bearing came right out, obviously. Since there is no way that I can get the spindle and metal cup out of the tranny without some major work, I'm going to cut the bands on the new axle, push the new tr**** bearing into the existing metal cup which is stuck in the transmission, and reband the large part of the boot on the car. this can, and has been done, according to two FSMs for my other cars (only have the haynes for the pro)...hopefully i'll be back up and running by tomorrow

[FE3-323]

keep us informed on what happens

[EricM]

keep us informed on what happens

i will...gotta work tomorrow, so i'll get an update up after i finish and test drive it tomorrow night

[mike_moss]

I'll have to disagree with you on this mike.
OEM endlinks are ****, & should not be replaced with more OEM ****.
Upgrade for cheaper then buying new oem parts.

I've tested the theory pretty well, even SS endlink bolts will not cause the swaybar to break. the bolts will bend first. If you compare the OEM bolt next to a SS bolt @ the hardware store the only way to screw up is if your a complete imbicielle.

Ryan

To each his own, I guess. :shrug:

[FE3-323]

true

[Tazman2]

I also do not reccomend the E.S. kit. The bushings are the only part worth any value. Their hardware is junk as well. mind you the poly bushings can misform quite easily uunder the amount of stress they are subjected too. i've replaced mine a few times already.

Yeah my damn washers are so screwed up on the bottom that i can barely get the damn tools on there to tighten it up! And the bushings are pretty squished too. I find myself loosening/retightening the front sway bar every 300-500 or so miles as the car loosens up! Damn ES bushings!

PS: I also agree on the sway bar breakage. If it breaks then clearly it was already screwed to **** as sway bars aren't exactly thin!

[EricM]

ok todays update: fitting the axle into the existing old metal cup worked perfectly. i also got the endlink kit on - but no road test yet because i couldn't get the old tie rod end off. i was just going to leave the old one on there to get to work tomorrow, but the stupid thing won't go in through the hole on the knuckle, even when banging with a 2 lb. sledge (with a piece of maple in between). so i'll have to wait until tomorrow when i can get an extension on my 18mm box wrench to get the old tie rod end off....looks like a ride from my boss for another day

[EricM]

ok...a good update for the first time in a week!!! well, kinda good...

...my method of rebooting the axle on the car with the existing metal cup worked awesome. the car drives better, things feel tighter, and the clicking is GONE. Since we couldn't get the old tie rod end off still, we filed it down a little bit (for a temporary fix) and put it back in its hole in the knuckle. Even after torching and trying to get the damn thing off the tie rod with a cheater bar, we just couldn't budge it at all. So I dont screw up the threads anymore, I'm bringing it to a shop so that they can get more leverage from underneath the car with a lift (all i have is jackstands)...So the car is going in for that, a tranny oil change, and im going to have them reband my inner cv boot cuz i dont think my band is going to hold for too long...but everything worked out well!!! I haven't beat on the car yet because I'm scared to mess stuff up, but the new end link bolt and bushings look and feel great. I'll get a FINAL update once it comes back from the shop and I get the new tie rod end on! Thanks for all your help guys, once again

[SgtRauksauff]

Are you saying you couldn't disconnect the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod?
Or couldn't disconnect the inner tie rod from the steering rack?

Because if you CAN disconnect the inner rod from the rack what I'd do (well, actually what I have done), is just spend the 15 bucks on a new inner tie rod, and the 27 bucks (which you already have I think) on the outer tie rod end, and put all-new between the rack and spindle.

It would save a bunch of money than actually taking it in to have the work done, that could be better spent on an alignment once everything else is replaced.

Maybe I'm not understanding it right, but I'm not sure why the tie rod end wouldn't fit into the hole in the knuckle, unless the end somehow got mushroomed after it was removed? Because it's a tapered fit and should go in easily, even if it was orignally rusted tight. You put it in from the top down, right, not from the bottom?

anyway, good luck!

--sarge

[EricM]

thanks for the heads up.

however, the inner tie rod end is 40 bucks, not 15. how hard of a job is it to take the inner rod out of the steering rack? is there any chance that it could be stuck badly? and im not sure why the rod wouldn't go in either, it was a mystery to both my father and i...yeah, i was putting it in from the top...i have no clue though...but now its in...


...oh - more sweetness...on the way home from work the alternator died...i swear every time i fix one thing, three more break! haha