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Proteges have bigger front brakes than the 323?

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    Proteges have bigger front brakes than the 323?

    Cant seem to find an answer here. but autopart stores say they take diffrent rotors/...
    BG Proteges have bigger front brakes than the BG 323?
    sigpic

    #2
    not sure, but that would make sense as the sedan is heavier than the 3door hatch.....good question.
    Eat ****.

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      #3
      -------------------------
      '91 LX
      '03 Mazdaspeed Protege #235
      -------------------------

      Originally posted by pigeon
      well if you're a fan of inaccuracy and uncertainty.... then by all means, go set your timing by feel and sound

      while you're out there, you might as well adjust your air/fuel ratio by smell... and your tire pressure by ride height

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        #4
        The LX Protege has bigger rotors than the 323 and DX Protege. The calipers are also different.
        2013 Dodge Dart Aero

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          #5
          And if you want to swap em, you will need the spindle from a lx pro...
          So on that note, better to just grap the front spindles from a lx pro with the caliper/rotor/brake lines.
          photo album|photo album 2 (pbase)

          dbest1a AT yahoo DOT com

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            #6
            Ok, i have found an LX in good condition in a junkyard around here, im going to nab front and rear brakes, It also has a power sun roof i wonder if i could swap it with my manual glass one....
            sigpic

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              #7
              Ok getting the front spindles will suck. First the axle nuts have to come off along with the outer tie rods and lower ball joints. Rent or buy a tire rod/ball joint puller from your local auto parts store. Sometimes the lower ball joint will come out of the knuckle on it's own after you hammer out the compression bolt and sometimes it'll say "**** you". I had to rent an electric impact wrench to get my axle nut off and my local J/Y doesn't allow power tools, not sure the rule on other J/Ys.

              As far as the rear goes you can either grab the entire sub frame, not a bad idea, as many suggest or unbolt the front and rear lateral links from the sub frame and keep them attached to the rear spindle. I could not get the bolt that attaches the spindle to the lateral links and even rounded the end of the bolt trying with a 4ft breaker bar. I was later told by a member on the board that those bolts will never come out; I guess they seize up tight.

              Don’t forget the LX proportioning valve. It’s on the firewall and has looks like this:

              It’s the one on the left


              I’m getting close to the end of my DX to LX brake swap, it’s been an experience. The hardest part has been dealing with old rusted bolts that don’t like to break free.
              Last edited by Silentbob343; 01-09-2006, 09:35 PM.
              2005 Mazda 3

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                #8
                Great info, what would be the advantage of getting the entire rear subframe?
                sigpic

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                  #9
                  Oh how bout a picture to show the actual size diffrence between rotors?
                  sigpic

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by OCD-SPEED
                    Great info, what would be the advantage of getting the entire rear subframe?
                    Some say it's easier to grab and install the whole frame rather than dealing with the individual spindles.
                    Originally posted by OCD-SPEED
                    Oh how about a picture to show the actual size diffrence between rotors?
                    I don't have the front rotors off my car to take any pics, perhaps some one else can help out with that request.
                    2005 Mazda 3

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                      #11
                      from the sticky above..


                      9.3" Ventilated Discs w/"13 18V" Calipers
                      --1990-1994 Mazda 323
                      --1990-1994 Mazda Protege SE/DX
                      --1991-1996 Ford Escort Base/Pony/LX
                      --1991-1996 Mercury Tracer Base

                      10.1" Ventilated Discs w/"22 14V" Calipers
                      --1990-1994 Mazda Protege 4WD/LX
                      --1991-1996 Ford Escort GT/LX-E
                      --1991-1996 Mercury Tracer LTS
                      --1992-1996 Mazda MX-3 (all)


                      and yeah, the lower spindle bolt that holds the lateral links is a MF'n PITA to remove, sometimes.


                      Whereas, the whole rear subassembly is 10 bolts, and the brake lines (leave the e-brake cable connected, disconnect it at the handle...
                      -4 strut mount bolts (inside the car)
                      -4 crossmember bolts (under the car)
                      -2 trailing arm bolts. (under the car)


                      --sarge

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                        #12
                        Ah yes good point about the ebrake cable. You need the LX ebrake cables as well they run under the exhaust heat shield. So you will most likely need to disconnect the exhaust as well. The car that I took the cables from had it's exhaust ripped off so I didn't need to muck with it. I also hear the exhaust bolts can be a PITA.
                        2005 Mazda 3

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                          #13
                          Wow sounds like more trouble than its worth. lol
                          sigpic

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                            #14
                            at track days, WAY WAY easier (for me, at least) to change pads if needed than to change shoes....

                            --sarge

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by OCD-SPEED
                              Wow sounds like more trouble than its worth. lol
                              LOL

                              yeah once you start getting the parts and what-not and realize what's involved it seems like it.
                              2005 Mazda 3

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