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And if you want to swap em, you will need the spindle from a lx pro...
So on that note, better to just grap the front spindles from a lx pro with the caliper/rotor/brake lines.
Ok, i have found an LX in good condition in a junkyard around here, im going to nab front and rear brakes, It also has a power sun roof i wonder if i could swap it with my manual glass one....
Ok getting the front spindles will suck. First the axle nuts have to come off along with the outer tie rods and lower ball joints. Rent or buy a tire rod/ball joint puller from your local auto parts store. Sometimes the lower ball joint will come out of the knuckle on it's own after you hammer out the compression bolt and sometimes it'll say "**** you". I had to rent an electric impact wrench to get my axle nut off and my local J/Y doesn't allow power tools, not sure the rule on other J/Ys.
As far as the rear goes you can either grab the entire sub frame, not a bad idea, as many suggest or unbolt the front and rear lateral links from the sub frame and keep them attached to the rear spindle. I could not get the bolt that attaches the spindle to the lateral links and even rounded the end of the bolt trying with a 4ft breaker bar. I was later told by a member on the board that those bolts will never come out; I guess they seize up tight.
Don’t forget the LX proportioning valve. It’s on the firewall and has looks like this:
I’m getting close to the end of my DX to LX brake swap, it’s been an experience. The hardest part has been dealing with old rusted bolts that don’t like to break free.
Last edited by Silentbob343; 01-09-2006, 09:35 PM.
and yeah, the lower spindle bolt that holds the lateral links is a MF'n PITA to remove, sometimes.
Whereas, the whole rear subassembly is 10 bolts, and the brake lines (leave the e-brake cable connected, disconnect it at the handle...
-4 strut mount bolts (inside the car)
-4 crossmember bolts (under the car)
-2 trailing arm bolts. (under the car)
Ah yes good point about the ebrake cable. You need the LX ebrake cables as well they run under the exhaust heat shield. So you will most likely need to disconnect the exhaust as well. The car that I took the cables from had it's exhaust ripped off so I didn't need to muck with it. I also hear the exhaust bolts can be a PITA.
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