Hey whats Im puttin new rotors on the rear and front of my car and new brakes too... Im think Im goin to bleed them too... Could someone just give me some tips on replacing the old ones... and bleeding them and brakes too... I need help(Step by STep) changing them out... Thanks... :microwave
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NEw Rotors and Brakes and BLeedin THem
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What pads and rotors are you going with Ron?
Flushing out the old brake fluid would be a good idea. Who knows when it was done last. When you push the caliper pistons back, you're supposed to have the bleeder screw open, so that instead of sending the ****ty fluid that has been collecting in your piston bore back into the master cylinder, you flush it out. After you pump up the brake pedal, you should crack the bleeder screw open again, and let it gravity bleed for a few seconds, just to make sure that there is no air in the lines. So essentially, you SHOULD bleed the brakes a little when doing a brake job.
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rear rotors have screws holding them to the hub.
fronts should jsut come off if memeory serves correct.---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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OKya IM deff having a problem now the rotors are all on no problem the rear brakes got to be changed so I went and got some new ones and pull the old ones out but the round thingy that pushes the brakes wont go in... I tryed drainin it and took off the cap under the hood the bitch wont push in so I can put the new pads on and put them back on the rotor... what do i do...Ratrod
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use a C-clamp & tighten it down until the piston goes back into the caliper... on the rear however, you must loosen the allen screw inside the caliper that adjusts the parking brake. this allen screw moves the piston in & out. mild-light force with a c-clamp & loosening the allen screw will get it to move back into the bore.---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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Originally posted by bpt323rear rotors have screws holding them to the hub.
fronts should jsut come off if memeory serves correct.
Originally posted by bpt323use a C-clamp & tighten it down until the piston goes back into the caliper... on the rear however, you must loosen the allen screw inside the caliper that adjusts the parking brake. this allen screw moves the piston in & out. mild-light force with a c-clamp & loosening the allen screw will get it to move back into the bore.
Ron, to get to that 4mm allen screw on the rear caliper, you first have to take out the little 14mm bolt that covers the allen screw. Back the 4mm allen off and it will retract your caliper piston to fit the new pads in. When you put the caliper back on, make sure you re-adjust your ebrake adjustment using that 4mm allen screw.
Good luck man.
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Originally posted by ProjectProtegeOKay the rear pad goes in good but the front pad just doesnt looks like it fits... what the hell now Im payin someone next time....
Take a pic of the front pads and I'll tell you if you have the right ones.
Just put them in the caliper and slide the pins thru them to hold them in place while you put the caliper on.
This is what it should look like:Last edited by Jho; 10-22-2006, 05:31 PM.
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Originally posted by ProjectProtegecome on JHOOOO.... the problem is the rear... pads dont want to fit or some****...**SOLD** 93 EGT with more suspension mods then your average riced out civic's # of decals + useless "bling/style/culture" mods! **SOLD**
95 EGT New beater! And gawd damnit shes NOT pink!
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