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NEw Rotors and Brakes and BLeedin THem

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    NEw Rotors and Brakes and BLeedin THem

    Hey whats Im puttin new rotors on the rear and front of my car and new brakes too... Im think Im goin to bleed them too... Could someone just give me some tips on replacing the old ones... and bleeding them and brakes too... I need help(Step by STep) changing them out... Thanks... :microwave
    Ratrod


    #2
    if you're just replacing rotors/pads you don't need to bleed the brakes.
    sigpic

    03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
    92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

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      #3
      What pads and rotors are you going with Ron?

      Flushing out the old brake fluid would be a good idea. Who knows when it was done last. When you push the caliper pistons back, you're supposed to have the bleeder screw open, so that instead of sending the ****ty fluid that has been collecting in your piston bore back into the master cylinder, you flush it out. After you pump up the brake pedal, you should crack the bleeder screw open again, and let it gravity bleed for a few seconds, just to make sure that there is no air in the lines. So essentially, you SHOULD bleed the brakes a little when doing a brake job.

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        #4
        JHO im just doin the rotors how do I take them off PLAYA
        Ratrod

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          #5
          rear rotors have screws holding them to the hub.
          fronts should jsut come off if memeory serves correct.
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          1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




          I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
          he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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            #6
            get a haynes manual, it tells you more than enough of info as well as torque specs and it has some nifty pictures

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              #7
              OKya IM deff having a problem now the rotors are all on no problem the rear brakes got to be changed so I went and got some new ones and pull the old ones out but the round thingy that pushes the brakes wont go in... I tryed drainin it and took off the cap under the hood the bitch wont push in so I can put the new pads on and put them back on the rotor... what do i do...
              Ratrod

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                #8
                use a C-clamp & tighten it down until the piston goes back into the caliper... on the rear however, you must loosen the allen screw inside the caliper that adjusts the parking brake. this allen screw moves the piston in & out. mild-light force with a c-clamp & loosening the allen screw will get it to move back into the bore.
                ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by bpt323
                  rear rotors have screws holding them to the hub.
                  fronts should jsut come off if memeory serves correct.
                  The fronts have screws holding them on too.

                  Originally posted by bpt323
                  use a C-clamp & tighten it down until the piston goes back into the caliper... on the rear however, you must loosen the allen screw inside the caliper that adjusts the parking brake. this allen screw moves the piston in & out. mild-light force with a c-clamp & loosening the allen screw will get it to move back into the bore.
                  Or a pair of big channel-lock pliers will work.

                  Ron, to get to that 4mm allen screw on the rear caliper, you first have to take out the little 14mm bolt that covers the allen screw. Back the 4mm allen off and it will retract your caliper piston to fit the new pads in. When you put the caliper back on, make sure you re-adjust your ebrake adjustment using that 4mm allen screw.

                  Good luck man.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    OKay the rear pad goes in good but the front pad just doesnt looks like it fits... what the hell now Im payin someone next time....





                    27/gcfinest17/100_2875.jpg[/IMG]
                    Ratrod

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by ProjectProtege
                      OKay the rear pad goes in good but the front pad just doesnt looks like it fits... what the hell now Im payin someone next time....
                      You have a sexy thumb.

                      Take a pic of the front pads and I'll tell you if you have the right ones.

                      Just put them in the caliper and slide the pins thru them to hold them in place while you put the caliper on.

                      This is what it should look like:
                      Last edited by Jho; 10-22-2006, 05:31 PM.

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                        #12
                        the rear bro
                        Ratrod

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                          #13
                          come on JHOOOO.... the problem is the rear... pads dont want to fit or some****...
                          Ratrod

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by ProjectProtege
                            come on JHOOOO.... the problem is the rear... pads dont want to fit or some****...
                            Thats why he said he wants to see a pic so he can tell you for sure considering when a caliper/pads fit PROPERLY it can be on a 17 inch rotor on a race car or a 3 inch one on a geo metro its the same GENERAL "concept" of how it fits!
                            **SOLD** 93 EGT with more suspension mods then your average riced out civic's # of decals + useless "bling/style/culture" mods! **SOLD**
                            95 EGT New beater! And gawd damnit shes NOT pink!

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                              #15
                              and what size should the front be the new ones look smaller than the old ones damn autozone...


                              Ratrod

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