Allignment Settings

[bandman659]

Installing the S/R struts and H&R springs this weekend and I'm getting an allignment done too. I don't want the standard allignment, but rather one with less toe-in for better response and as much camber and caster I can get without getting camber plates. Does anyone have any suggestions as far as settings go? What works best with these cars?

[Jho]

Caster isn't really adjustable in a BG, and I wouldn't **** with that anyways.

I just threw my car on the rack yesterday, and this is what I had:

Front camber:

Specified range: -.8 - .7

Actual: -1.2

Rear camber:

-Specified range: -1.1 - .4

Actual: -1.6

A little more negative camber than specified because my car is lowered. The tires still wear perfectly.

I wouldn't mess with toe too much either, or you will start eating through tires.

[bandman659]

Well, the problem is that my front tires are getting chewed up on the outside edge. If I remember, that means too much toe-in. I was thinking zero toe in the rear and about 1/32 or 1/16 toe-in in the front.

[Jho]

Well, the problem is that my front tires are getting chewed up on the outside edge. If I remember, that means too much toe-in. I was thinking zero toe in the rear and about 1/32 or 1/16 toe-in in the front.

I wouldn't mess with toe. Just leave it at the manufacturer's spec or else you will go through tires.

[escortkid]

why do you want so much camber and caster? just wondering? it seems to me like you dont totally understand the effect of camber and caster on your car. yes the outside edge can be too much toe. it is also positive camber. it can also be just your driving.

[deadly_sleeper]

I wouldn't mess with toe. Just leave it at the manufacturer's spec or else you will go through tires.

well, since you said that your car is chewing up tires on the outside that would mean too much toe in. yes the factory settings on all cars have the car with some toe in to make it more stable on the road, but i'm thinking that you have too much toe in. when i lowered my car i didn't hardly mess with the toe, left it almost stock a little less to make it closer to zero, and i have no problems with it eating up my tires. if you make your car have almost 0 toe either way, then it is going to wander more on the road. take it to less schwabs or something and have them check the toe. tell them that they did the alignment and you think that it is out of adjustment. then after that, go from there.

[Clean 4WD]

Caster isn't really adjustable in a BG, and I wouldn't **** with that anyways.

Um Yes the caster is adjustable on the BG... That is why the upper strut top has Four studs vs Two studs on the earlier BF... You can look at the strut top and see the strut stud sticking threw is offset.. When rotated in the proper position caster and camber both can be changed... Just thought You should know... The adjustment is a fair amount...

[FE3-323]

slight toe out in the rear assists you in being able to make the back end more responsive to coming around.
let the alignment shop set your toe for the front.
beyond that, i think this is what your searching for.
Altho its not reccomended to change the position of the plates as you'll add positive camber which isn't what your seeking.
without camber bolts or plates your better off with a standard front alignment & only slight toe out in the rear.
A good alignment shop will be able to set it for you. after you align your toe in the rear you'll wind up with some negative camber to start with. H&R springs give you the added bonus of a good amount of negative camber. can't say as much for other springs.

[FE3-323]

courteousy of yours truely

[Jho]

Um Yes the caster is adjustable on the BG... That is why the upper strut top has Four studs vs Two studs on the earlier BF... You can look at the strut top and see the strut stud sticking threw is offset.. When rotated in the proper position caster and camber both can be changed... Just thought You should know... The adjustment is a fair amount...

Yeah, sure you can move the strut mounts around to change front camber and caster.

But the strut mounts only belong in one position. Like you said, if you move the strut mount around, it makes a BIG difference, and can really mess your alignment up. And like Ryan said, if you do move the strut mount, it will make your camber positive.

Your caster shouldn't be messed with. If it is off for some reason, then you have a problem, like a bent component. A better way to adjust caster, without affecting camber, would be to make the 4 holes that your strut mount bolts to oblong, so that you can move the whole strut and strut mount assembly without changing camber.

[FE3-323]

Your caster shouldn't be messed with.

I wouldn't nessicarily go so far as to say that JHO, caster also has good & bad effects when moving /altering the angle/°

slotting aas you said is the only real way to adjust your caster. Most people do not go to that extent.

[Clean 4WD]

I wouldn't nessicarily go so far as to say that JHO, caster also has good & bad effects when moving /altering the angle/°

slotting aas you said is the only real way to adjust your caster. Most people do not go to that extent.

Well this is true... that is why I got the Cusco camber plates so I can have a full 4* of caster on the front.. On my jeep when I built the front axle I built in 10* of caster to compensate for the big lift and tires.. goes straight at 80 mph with no hands on the wheel..

[FE3-323]

i believe you meant 4° of camber. not caster.

[Clean 4WD]

i believe you meant 4° of camber. not caster.

Nope Caster... Alignment specs for my 4WD

Front L R

camber -1.0* -1.0*
caster 4.0* 4.0*
toe -1mm -1mm

Rear L R

camber -.75* -.75*
toe -1mm -1mm

This is my basic awd set up for any awd car that gives the car a good high speed stability and a nuetral feeling. The rear toe in helps the car turn in better but limits the oversteer. There are lot of ways to minuplate the camber caster on the front of the BG without moving the strut top.. But that is the proper way to adjust... I am toying with the Idea of making some tubular lower arms for the front that are adjustable at all three points..

[Grav1ty]

On my Escort LX E and Protege I set them the same.

Between 1.8 deg. to 2.0 deg. neg camber on all 4 wheels.

1/8 inch total toe out on all 4 (about 1/16 inch toe out each wheel)

Left caster stock.

Tire wear seems even, and it turns great.