More Brake problems. Pedal shakes.

[tonybonekhang]

I just replaced the front pass side brakes on my wife's car (92 Mazda Protege LX) and now the brake pedal jumps up and down when I press on the brakes. The strength and length of the pulses slows down as the car does. When I put the pads in I realized that the rotor had some corrosion on the outer edge. It was about 1/8" into the face - as if the pads were a little bit too small. I figured the new brakes, which covers the entire face of the rotor, would grind it down and it would be fine. Also when I compressed the caliper I forgot to open the cap for the brake fluid. I did the diver's front side a few days ago with a new rotor and pad and it was fine until I did the passenger side.

Also I tried to do the rears but the bolts that hold the caliper from swinging up were to hard to get out. It was a small 10mm bolt. I stripped the driver's side so that didn't come out. When I went to do the passenger's side I managed to break if free but when it pulled part of the bushing out with it. I ran out of clearance to pull it completely out (the ratchet head hit one of the lower arms) so I tried to drive it back in. Unfortunately it didn't want to take the bushing with it so the bolt head is kinda stuck inside that bushing sleeve. I'm just kinda driving it around now with that lower bolt half out until I can get it into a shop on Monday.

Any idea's about the brake pedal shaking?

[tyler886]

You can either take tyhe rotor off and knock off the edge of rust to see if that helps it, or replace the rotor since it sounds warped.

-Tyler

[tonybonekhang]

I replaced the rotor and it's fine. I thought the new pads would just grind down the rust but the edge on the back of the rotor was pretty bad. Now it's all nice and smooth.

[Jho]

I was going to say replace the rotor, but you already did.

Glad you fixed it.

[midnightblue97]

I just replaced the front pass side brakes on my wife's car (92 Mazda Protege LX) and now the brake pedal jumps up and down when I press on the brakes. The strength and length of the pulses slows down as the car does. When I put the pads in I realized that the rotor had some corrosion on the outer edge. It was about 1/8" into the face - as if the pads were a little bit too small. I figured the new brakes, which covers the entire face of the rotor, would grind it down and it would be fine. Also when I compressed the caliper I forgot to open the cap for the brake fluid. I did the diver's front side a few days ago with a new rotor and pad and it was fine until I did the passenger side.

Also I tried to do the rears but the bolts that hold the caliper from swinging up were to hard to get out. It was a small 10mm bolt. I stripped the driver's side so that didn't come out. When I went to do the passenger's side I managed to break if free but when it pulled part of the bushing out with it. I ran out of clearance to pull it completely out (the ratchet head hit one of the lower arms) so I tried to drive it back in. Unfortunately it didn't want to take the bushing with it so the bolt head is kinda stuck inside that bushing sleeve. I'm just kinda driving it around now with that lower bolt half out until I can get it into a shop on Monday.

Any idea's about the brake pedal shaking?

I would think the length of the pulse would increase as the car slowed.

For the back, incase you care to get the one bolt off, there is a 14mm bolt on the back that you can take off and stick a small allen wrench in the hole, I think its a 3.5mm wrench but don't quote me, it might be 3mm.
Stick the allen wrench in there and turn it, I forget which direction, but that will move the piston back into the caliper then you can put a small prybar inbetween the pads and rotor, exposing the head of the 10mm bolt making it easy to get the box end of a wrnech on it.
The other one you might be able to get off with a pair of vice grips.

The part numbers for new sliders, known to parts people as "guide pins" is:BW0H-26-998A

The rear adjuster gear part number is bw0h-26-733
I know I bought new rubbers for my calipers, but I'll be damned if I can find the part numbers for them.

Keep in mind that these are the part numbers for second gen rear calipers, but I do know that some model years of first gen had the same rear calipers so theres like, a 50/50 chance that these numbers might be of use to you.

[Jho]

For the back, incase you care to get the one bolt off, there is a 14mm bolt on the back that you can take off and stick a small allen wrench in the hole, I think its a 3.5mm wrench but don't quote me, it might be 3mm.
Stick the allen wrench in there and turn it, I forget which direction, but that will move the piston back into the caliper then you can put a small prybar inbetween the pads and rotor, exposing the head of the 10mm bolt making it easy to get the box end of a wrnech on it.
The other one you might be able to get off with a pair of vice grips.

It's a 4mm.

Clockwise will push the piston out, counter will pull the piston back into the bore.

[tonybonekhang]

I think I'm just going to take the back brakes into a shop. They're gonna need new rotors most likely and the factory set screws are still in place. I can't seem to get that 10 mm bolt off of the driver's side either. I tried some vise grips but to no avail.

Still odd how the outside of all the rotors were rusted in like that. I dunno if the brake pads were too small for some reason or if rust actually started getting into the rotor. I'm sure if I just slap on new pads it'll shake just like this one.

And as for the length that it was shaking I didn't mean it as time duration but rather as in the distance it was moving. Sorry about that midnightblue.

[Jho]

Did the car sit for a while?

[tonybonekhang]

I don't know. It's been a daily driver since I've owned it(about 2 years now). I don't know how long it was sitting but it couldn't be too long because the last owner had it titled in 2002. I never really checked things out until they needed to be replaced. I only got it for $400 so I was only concerned that it ran. Now it's apparent that it's got a lot of life in it.

So far I've replaced the rear struts, both cv axles, both front lower ball-joints, both tie-rod ends, a new battery, and a new downpipe and muffler. I've just put in new pads/rotors for the front and will eventually do the back. I've been keeping a relatively routine maintenance schedule with it. After everything I've done there's nothing left to happen to it other that snapping a rod or spinning a bearing. Although there does seem to be some rather odd (and loud) ticking from the head somewhere. My guess is that it's something to do with the valves or rockers. Is this fairly normal for a 200k+ motors? I might try to retime it but I dunno.

[Jho]

I don't know. It's been a daily driver since I've owned it(about 2 years now). I don't know how long it was sitting but it couldn't be too long because the last owner had it titled in 2002. I never really checked things out until they needed to be replaced. I only got it for $400 so I was only concerned that it ran. Now it's apparent that it's got a lot of life in it.

So far I've replaced the rear struts, both cv axles, both front lower ball-joints, both tie-rod ends, a new battery, and a new downpipe and muffler. I've just put in new pads/rotors for the front and will eventually do the back. I've been keeping a relatively routine maintenance schedule with it. After everything I've done there's nothing left to happen to it other that snapping a rod or spinning a bearing. Although there does seem to be some rather odd (and loud) ticking from the head somewhere. My guess is that it's something to do with the valves or rockers. Is this fairly normal for a 200k+ motors? I might try to retime it but I dunno.

Oh, I was asking because you said that the rotors had rust.

Your engine doesn't have rockers. It has direct hydraulic lash adjuster actuation(HLA's). They get noisy over time or when you are low on oil. My engine with over 185K on it tells me when I'm low on oil.

Here's a good "How To" for cleaning them: http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11841

[gtx510]

low oil doesn't matter as long as the pick-up is submerged. It's THIN oil that messes with the HLA's. When you get low on oil your put xxxx miles on your oil, right? That can make the oil thin out, especially if it's being diluted with fuel.

and www.auto-rx.com can help clean those clogged lifters.

[tonybonekhang]

Hmm...would a heavier weight oil help out at all? I'm running 5w-30 right now would running 10w-30 help cure the ticking at all? I'm not in the mood to remove any cams or retiming the car. Is this an issue that'll affect the car in the long run or is it just annoying to have?

BTW are there any other cleaners similar to Auto-RX that I can pick up locally? Sea Foam perhaps?