Brake problems, need advice..

[bozhano]

Hi guys,

Yesterday I had a close call with my 94 DX and I'm going to take it to a mechanic. But before doing anything, I need your advice because even after reading related topics about my problems I'm still confused.

Here is a little history first. About 10.000 Kms/ 8 Months ago my brakes were jumpy and brake pedal was pulsating up/down like mad, so I took her to the mechanic. Front rotors have changed (pads were fine)and rear drums sent for machinery. That solved the jumpy/pulsating brake problem but I noticed brake pedal started to travel way too much ( I could push it to the stop ) and it's softer compared to before. But I didn't mind that time, actually I liked it.. I'm pretty sure he did not bleed the brakes after that brake job.

Over the time I noticed my brakes are loosing their efficiency, especially in mornings for a first 10-20 meters damn car won't even slow down. but I couldn't test them properly because of damn Ontario winter. And yesterday, I had a chance to test them on dry HWY 401 . Oh boy, that truck became bigger and bigger on windshield while I was pushing the brake pedal to the floor to only get a moderate braking... I took it to a local mechanic today who said pads are ok and wanted to change almost all the freaking brake system, starting with master cylinder..

So here is my question. Where should I start? I don't want to change MC first because my car has only 105000 Km on it, I believe a MC lasts longer than that. Or should I tell to guy start with a bleed, if so should I look for a mechanic with vacuum or other bleeding equipment?

Well I desperately seeking for advice now, any reply is appreciated

One thing for sure, if you want to improve your driving skills and overall mpg, try driving with weak brakes, that makes you alerted and aticipated all the time

All the best,
Bozhan

[FE3-323]

start with good pads & a bleed

[Masterbanter]

Make sure vaccum hoses are on right and look for any leaks. Like around rear brake cylinders

[bozhano]

Thanks for replies,

@bpt323 - Front Pads are fine ( I edited my post also, thnx )

@Masterbanter - I'm not loosing brake fluid but I'll make sure hose positons are right on, thanks.

[323driver]

Pads cannot be fine if they are the same ones you had with the old rotors. They are maybe thick but their surface is no longer straight, biting your new rotors only at some places. So as stated earlier, change pads.

Another thing to look at is the rear drum internal diameter. You said they were machined but i'm not sure their internal diameter is to spec after that. Also, your shoes need to be replaced as they are grooved to the shape of your "old" drums. If your calipers or wheel cylinders weren't touched, the car should break as much as before, especially because it has new rotors THEREFORE, something is wrong at the rear.

1. Replace front pads
2. Measure rear drum diameter
3. Change rear shoes

You can do all of the above yourself, should take 1 hour for the whole job. Once you brake in the pads, if that doesn't help, than go to your mechanic...


my 2 cents...

[EricM]

i would be willing to bet your problems would be solved with a good bleed.

i had the same mushy pedal and a bleed fixed it.

[therieldeal]

i have a feeling it was bled wrong.

apparantly the correct way to do it is RR LF LR RF or something like that (dont quote me on that!). its a strange diagonal pattern.

when Jho and i did my brakes we bled them RR LR RF LF and my pedal is softer than it was before. it still stops OK but it should have improved because i went to a more agressive pad and fresh fluid. i havent gotten around to re-bleeding yet because no one wants to pump the pedal for me

[Mazda_Powered]

Check for brake fluid on your MC resevoir. If its low, top it up and get someone to help you bleed the brakes. If you're 100% positive there is no more air left, and you still have no pedal its because your MC is not use to that much pedal play and has gone soft.

You can always bench bleed the MC to check for leaks as well.

Asides from that, make sure all your brake lines are tight and there are no leaks.

JACK.

[Tazman2]

i have a feeling it was bled wrong.

apparantly the correct way to do it is RR LF LR RF or something like that (dont quote me on that!). its a strange diagonal pattern.

when Jho and i did my brakes we bled them RR LR RF LF and my pedal is softer than it was before. it still stops OK but it should have improved because i went to a more agressive pad and fresh fluid. i havent gotten around to re-bleeding yet because no one wants to pump the pedal for me

Start farthest from MC and get closer. And yeah i'll pump you UP! Mine defiantly improved but then again that was after new rotors, pads, better brake fluid AND new calipers!

[therieldeal]

thats how we did it, furthest to closest. BUT thats not the correct pattern as specified in the FSM.

[323driver]

Your mechanic didn't bleed your brakes as he didn't disconnect any brake hoses. From that, i'm sure it's your rear that is causing the problems. I would wait with the bleed as if you don't do it properly, you will screw up everything even more and couldn't figure out the initial problem. Once you make sure your pads, shoes and drums are good to spec, then bleed your system.

[Tazman2]

thats how we did it, furthest to closest. BUT thats not the correct pattern as specified in the FSM.

Ford one i assume? That thing is a useless honk of **** as we have discussed recently!

[therieldeal]

ive never looked at the ford FSM in my life

[sube]

Bleed the brakes and I would also check that sliders are moving freely, if you are unsure of how old the brake fluid is I would flush the fluid and replace it with fresh stuff.

Pat.

[escortkid]

get 4 sets of vice grips clamp off your brake lines. now go push the peddle if its stiff as hell and stays that way with out sinking under constant pressure its not your mc. now next thing check your rear wheel cylinders and front calipers and make sure they have no leaks. mc's can bypass internally meaning no leaks but still not working. any leaks would cause your condition along with air in the system. air can come from improper bleeding and any leaks or letting you mc res. get too low. if you pass the line lock test and dont have any leaks bleed the heck out of the system.