I just did the front brakes on my '93 Mazda 323. (Just my get to work car). And when it came time to bleed the lines the passenger side would go to the floor after opening the bleed screw, but the driver side wouldn't. Fluid came out when the bleed screw was opened but not with the force of the passenger side. One guy said the proportioning valve may need to be reset another said the master cylinder needs replacing. Anyone out there ever work through the same problem???
-
-
It is more than likely the flexible line is collapsed, try new lines on the front.
Pat.sigpic -
You also may want to check the bleeder screw to make sure it's working properly. Take it all the way out, see if the pinhole at the bottom is clogged, and blast a little compressed air through the bleeder.
Clint1994 Mazda Protege DX (261Kmiles): Eibach springs, Tokico struts, Addco sway bars, massively ghetto-fabulous OBX camber bolts set to max. -ve, Energy Suspension LCA bushings, disc brake conversion, Carbotech XP8 (front) and AX6 (rear) pads, ATE Superblue, 15x7 Kazera KZ-M w/ 205/50/15 Avon Tech Ra (track), 15x6 Miata wheels w/ 195/50/15 Hankook Ventus R-S2 (street) and 14" stock wheels w/ Blizzak WS-60 (ice racing), A/C delete, BP swap, POS Pacesetter (w/ leak), 2.25" custom exhaust, cage and full SCCA ITA prep possibly in the works...
1995 3000GT VR-4:Tein Flex, 332mm Stoptechs, manual steering conversion, custom brake lines with cockpit-mounted prop. valve, AWS delete, DSM sidemounts, full ATR single-exit, 13g/9b mismatch w/9psi WG springs, DN o2 housings, SAFC, AEM wideband, much more, etc.
1987 BMW 325is:Bilsteins/H&R Springs, very solid motor mounts, 220k - stodgy daily driverComment
Comment