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    Trouble bleeding clutch

    It was working when it was parked I'm pretty sure. Now I just can't seem to get the system to pressurize again after tearing it all apart. I'll probably try again tomorrow but since the pedal doesn't seem to be pushing anything, I think I might have to replace the master cylinder.

    Bled the brakes and they work fine.
    1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
    1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
    2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
    1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

    #2
    1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
    1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
    2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
    1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

    Comment


      #3
      yep saved me from typing it all out lol
      -Jack

      ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

      91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
      http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

      01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

      91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
      http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

      Comment


        #4
        I slept on it a bit and decided a new master cylinder would be both cheap and easy. That will be high on my to do list tomorrow.
        1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
        1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
        2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
        1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

        Comment


          #5
          I thought I needed to bleed my clutch once. I went through a sickening amount of brake fluid doing so. Turns out that one of the springs on the clutch plate (something about vibration dampening I think, I dunno, I'm not all that up to speed on clutches) had exploded and the clutch needed to be replaced.

          It felt like there was air in the line and when I pushed the pedal down it didn't disengage it. PITA

          Comment


            #6
            I got this taken care of. I bought a new master cylinder for $17~ and had it installed in less than an hour. Getting it bled was still a problem though because the bleeder valve didn't seem to work properly. When I finally pulled the valve out all together and used my thumb to plug the hole, I got good progress, as well as a bath of fluid. It worked though. I reinstalled the valve and am happy to report a fully functioning clutch.
            1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
            1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
            2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
            1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

            Comment


              #7
              I've always found that the clutch bleeding takes a LOT longer than the brakes. I think it just doesn't move the volume of fluid that you'd expect.

              I take a big syringe (used at one point to feed myself through a stomach tube) and suck the fluid through, at first, then do the pump'n'bleed to finish up.

              --sarge

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by SgtRauksauff View Post
                I've always found that the clutch bleeding takes a LOT longer than the brakes. I think it just doesn't move the volume of fluid that you'd expect.

                I take a big syringe (used at one point to feed myself through a stomach tube) and suck the fluid through, at first, then do the pump'n'bleed to finish up.

                --sarge
                We have an exercise ball that has a syringe looking thing to blow it up. It would have to be modified to work in this situation but it's a great idea.

                As for feeding yourself through a tube in your stomach, I wish I could do that sometimes when my wife insisted on putting mushrooms in the spaghetti sauce. Other than that, it would suck ass!
                1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
                1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
                2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
                1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

                Comment


                  #9
                  I always use one of these:





                  It makes it easy for me since I don't have to have a helper around.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I like speed bleeders. those things that look like the stock valves, but have a spring loaded check valve in them. Just loosen, pump, tighten it up, done!
                    Cheap to. Works for clutch and brakes.
                    94 pro base model, all synthetic fluids, s/r struts, front & rear ebay upper strut bars,front & rear tie bar, ZX2 1" front swaybar, EGT 21mm rear sway bar, custom delrin endlinks front & rear, custom delrin rear swaybar mount bushings, EBC front blanks & redstuff pads, CS ss brake lines & dot 4 fluid, big drum brakes in rear (from ZX2, free parts), 2.25 custom exaust w/magnaflo oval muffler, 4-wire o2 sensor, custom ram-air, 4-wire BP tb, MSD super conducter plug wires, MSD Blaster SS coil, NGK iridiums,OEM weighted shift knob, ebay short shifter, bronzoil bushings, CS ss clutch line, custom air splitter, mx-3 recaro drivers seat, EGT foglight switch, 35w 5000k hi/lo hid's

                    soon:
                    lightened flywheel & clutch; in garage,
                    Miata Daisy's; after new tires

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