Rear Brake Pads changed... now it feels like the calipers need to be bled...

[nerd racing]

So I had to change my rear pads, no big deal there... WRONG! First the driver's rear adjuster set screw stripped the splines out trying to retract the piston. It did move some so I just went to the other side... That one worked perfectly and pad change was a breeze. Set the adjuster in till the rotor dragged, then backed off 1/3 a turn like the manual said. I got back to the other side and swapped out the adjuster hex insert thing. Same deal but it moved enough to get the piston close. So I said screw it, popped off the pad anti-rattle shim things and it was still a touch to tight. I had some sand paper and I took 0.020" off both pads. Fit nice and snug, but didn't lock the wheel it barely dragged. Then I tightened everything up, including the set plugs in the back of the caliper.

I go to test drive it and the pedal goes halfway until I get any sort of braking and the E-brake doesn't do diddly squat. I pumped up the pedal and it stiffened up. It feels exactly like the lines need to be bled. Before the brakes were always pretty good... Anyone ever run into this? I'm not leaking fluid anywhere either. I am trying to make it through the end of August before I get anything different (more than likely new) but man things are making me re-think that. I am 100% positive the bleeder is going to break off on at least one side when I go to bleed them... Always does.

Just tried pumping up the pedal till it was stiff and then pulled the e-brake. The brake had tension then.

[FE3-323]

i had a leaking caliper via the adjuster. check theres no fluid in there

other then that. leave them so they barely drag- drive around the block quick with light drag from your foot. takes care of them right away.

[nerd racing]

There was some in the driver's side adjuster I noticed. I reinstalled the plug with a new crush washer, I think I just need to bleed them since it leaked into the adjuster area and probably let air into the rest of the caliper.

[Mazda_Powered]

I've had great luck setting the drag with the wheel/tires still on the car. I crank the parking mechanism solid, then do 1 full rotation back and check for drag.

Sounds like you've found your issue tho, sounds like a leak. Usually the pedal gets better, not worse lol

[nerd racing]

I know, who would have thought changing the pads would make it worse!

The pedal was a little stiffer this morning, but still not what I'd like it to be or what it was.

[Mazda_Powered]

I'm going to guess it needs to be adjusted still, too far away from the rotor could cause some crap

[MazdaNoob]

the lack of ebrake is the clue... has nothing to do with bleeding you are missing something on the adjuster + you need to adjust the ebrake as well

[A100FLOWERS]

Hi I am new and want to know what and how to do in case the 4 mm hex screw/adjuster(which is behind the cliper) striped--I checked some messages which mentioned the little hex adjuster is easy to strip. I may need to replace my rear brake pads next week.Thanks.