If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Haha, I meant the one on the right for the brake pedal. I know the one on the left is for the brake lights. Anyway, I think I got it figured out. The white in the safety switch, the black one with the yellow thing is to turn off cruise control (not needed in my car), the other black one is the brake light switch and there's also a black switch on the clutch pedal (not in picture) that should also be to turn off cruise control when you press in the clutch.
Anyway, I ordered a new safety switch, since the connector is broken off the one I have, and a new cruise control turn off switch because the plug on the one I have is different than what's in my car.
I also cleaned up and pianted the pedal assembly and the pedal arms.
The arms weren't too bad. But they did have some rust around the weld for the pedal and around the top where it meets the bracket assembly.
Just filled up today, 25mpg, gah! Though my idle is higher than it should be and I also have a P0110 code. IAT sensor malfunction or something or other. It's plugged in fully and the wiring is all good as far as I can tell. I'll order up a new one and see if that fixes it. And also adust my idle back down, haha.
before you order it, unplug it from the car and check the resistance of it (i'm guessing you have a basic dvom) cause if its good, throwing a new part in won't fix it
just leave it unplugged (you already have the code set ne way...) measure it when its cold and later on in the day when it warms up and see what the resistance is
sigpic
96 protege dx - gone :'(
94 Mustang Gt - Became one with a deer
02 dodge 1500 - CAI, random aftermarket exhaust
95 protege dx - now derivable, my new project
Originally posted by firelizard
I'm going to go take a bath in $10 bills after my mom makes me a PB&J.
Me: just wondering if that was a 2500 and if it was a diesel
Class mate 1: it wasn't mine, but i think it mighta been a 1 ton and ya it was a diesel
Class mate 2: no way, that truck was way to big to be a 1 ton...
computer looks for changes, if it thinks your coolant temp is correct and the air is not changing the way it should it will flag a code... always remember, computers are not smart by any means, they just do what they "think" is right
BUT... before you go chasing down that sensor, you could do this:
measure it at the sensor, than go to the computer and UNPLUG THE CONNECTOR FROM THE ECU and measure the sensor wire again (if you leave it plugged in and measure it your going to get a false reading, same reason you have to unplug it at the sensor when you first measure just the sensor) that way you know that the computer is at least receiving the correct info and that your wires all the way to the computer haven't been messed up (corrosion, pinched... ect)
but if that checks out i would do the same exact thing with the coolant temp, and if that checks out i think your just sol...
EDIT: i should add before everyone thinks i'm stupid, the above scenario can POSSIBLY happen, it is highly unlikely, but if the sensor(s) failed in just the right way it could do this, there is probably a way better explanation if the sensor checks out, but above is the first thing that popped into my head
sigpic
96 protege dx - gone :'(
94 Mustang Gt - Became one with a deer
02 dodge 1500 - CAI, random aftermarket exhaust
95 protege dx - now derivable, my new project
Originally posted by firelizard
I'm going to go take a bath in $10 bills after my mom makes me a PB&J.
Me: just wondering if that was a 2500 and if it was a diesel
Class mate 1: it wasn't mine, but i think it mighta been a 1 ton and ya it was a diesel
Class mate 2: no way, that truck was way to big to be a 1 ton...
Well, got my new clutch switches today. Safety switch and cruise cut-off switch. Only problem, the pedal assembly is from an EGT, therefore it had a different cruise cut-off switch. Here's the difference:
The Mazda one obviously won't thread into the assembly like the Ford one did. (Or maybe it's a BG/BH difference, I dont' know.) Either way, I'm going to have to find a creative solution to this, or find a BH pedal assembly. *sigh*
edit: Just found this out...
Just found a site with some diagrams. I'm thinking this assembly isn't going to work in my car.
I think he's just comparing the two. The park/neutral safety switch lets you start the car only if the transmission is in Park or Neutral. The clutch safety switch is basically the same thing, let's you start the car only of the clutch is pressed in.
The clutch safety switch is basically the same thing, let's you start the car only of the clutch is pressed in.
It's strange, but when key is in START position and the clutch isn't pressed in - car would start anyway (by starter), even when neutral switch isn't selected )
Maybe your switch is bad? I know my mom's Jetta won't start unless I press in the clutch pedal. It's a safety thing. You don't want to accidently start your car with the transmission still in gear (ex: parking on a hill) so you press the clutch to disengage the engine from the transmission. Or maybe I'm just not understanding you.
You've understood me right - we tried on many mazdas - 323, 323f - all of them start well, maybe it's due to european version... Or all swithches on our mazdas are bad , lol
But the neutral switch is important - people have problems with engine when switch wiring is damaged, for example
i've seen them bypassed a lot, you just have to be really careful, my brother smashed into my parents garage cause his old dakota would start w/o the clutch in, and he forgot it was in first gear lol
sigpic
96 protege dx - gone :'(
94 Mustang Gt - Became one with a deer
02 dodge 1500 - CAI, random aftermarket exhaust
95 protege dx - now derivable, my new project
Originally posted by firelizard
I'm going to go take a bath in $10 bills after my mom makes me a PB&J.
Me: just wondering if that was a 2500 and if it was a diesel
Class mate 1: it wasn't mine, but i think it mighta been a 1 ton and ya it was a diesel
Class mate 2: no way, that truck was way to big to be a 1 ton...
Haha, exactly my reason for wanting to sort these out and get wired up properly. I don't want to forget it's a manual since I've had an automatic for my whole driving life. Only 4 years, but whatever, hahaha.
Shifter arrived! My bed is officially home to my car parts, haha.
Let's see, do I have everything?
-Transmission
-Intermediat shaft
-Driver side axle (reusing Protege passenger axle)
-Flywheel (and bolts)
-Clutch
-Pressure plate (and bolts/washers)
-Master cylinder
-Slave cylinder
-SS clutch line
-Pedal assembly (ordered a new one, the EGT one wont work in my car)
-Transmission mounts
-Shifter
-Shifter bushings (Bronzeoil)
Things I know I still need: -Brake master cylinder- (just ordered from Rockauto)
-Clutch master cylinder hard lines-
Anything else? And where can I get the hard lines?
Comment