I'm in for a fiberglass set, maybe carbon fiber depending on price
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Kev's JDM 1997 Protege
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Attempting to figure out placement of that hood scoop in relation to parts under the hood. I think I might have to relocate the battery to the trunk and have the intake come around the front, side or bottom of a custom airbox. Photos are in my CP album on Facebook and I'll upload them here after work.
From the looks of it, the scoop sits right above the intake path. An airbox nestled nice and tight between the throttle body and distributor, and valve cover and battery should be perfect. Maybe the top half of the OEM airbox flipped upside down would work if the filter is large enough. Then it would just be a matter of figuring out the intake routing.
And here's a photo of the adjustable 19mm rear sway bar.
Moving the endlink forward should make it stiffer, and making the rear bar stiffer will make the car slightly more neutral/tail happy?
And My OEM stainless steel scuff plates arrived two days early. I love surprises like that. Came with full installation hardware and even instructions, woo! I know what I'll be doing in the morning.
HTC Droid DNALast edited by irishkev90; 07-10-2013, 09:43 PM.
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Alright. I think I'll start this project this weekend. Need to get supplies.
HTC Droid DNA
Edit: Previous owner will be back next week, so I'll be able to organize getting everything settled and have the car registered by August, hopefully.Last edited by irishkev90; 07-10-2013, 07:31 PM.
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Updated post #33 with promised pics. Also, back in December 2005, 95pro was supposedly making copies of his rear skirts. Judging by the photos in his thread, he made a mold of the originals, but never got farther than that. The last post was in the beginning of 2006. I'll try to keep my project from meeting the same tragic end
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Question concerning the hood scoop; is there a way to seal the edge of the metal after cutting a hole in the hood without repainting the entire thing? If I do figure out a way to make that scoop functional, I'd rather not have to repaint the whole thing or even just a section and risk the paint peeling off later.
It can be done if necessary, of course, but is there anything I can just put around the raw edge to prevent rust?
HTC Droid DNA
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I guess I'll give that a shot when the time comes, thanks.
Installed my new stainless scuff plates. MUCH nicer than the original plastic pieces and very simple to install.
1. Remove plastic scuff plate.
2. Insert plastic clips into the two outermost rectangular holes. They slide a little bit to help with alignment with screw holes in the scuff plate.
3. Align screw holes in metal scuff plate over plastic clips and screw into place.
4. Enjoy
The Protege badges even have a slight metallic look to them. Tried to get a picture.
Also went under the hood and played with the hood scoop/airbox idea. This is about where it would go.
It needs some slight modifications, however. The (now) bottom hits one of the wiring connectors on the engine.
It also needs to be resized. It's about an inch too narrow and 1-1.5" too long.
With this setup, the battery will have to be moved and the intake will have to snake around from the throttle body, over the battery tray and up into the airbox. Completely doable, but I see a lot of trial and error in the future. Would be awesome to make that thing functional, though.
Edit: After taking some measurements and punching them into K&N's website, four filters popped up. One for a Civic, a Daewoo something, Elantra, and a lawn mower engine. The two closest filters in size were the Elantra and lawn mower, within 1/8" of each other. Made two paper cutouts and compared them to the seal for the hood scoop. The Elantra filter was pretty much as close to perfect as I'll probably find, 7.5" x 8" and I think 1" in height. Advance has a Purolator in stock for $12, so I'm going to grab that for mock-up purposes. Since the paper element filter probably won't hold up well if it gets wet, I'll get a cotton filter when the whole project is finalized.Last edited by irishkev90; 07-11-2013, 08:37 AM.
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Little update. Looks like the Elantra filter will seal quite nicely. It will be flipped the other way, of course, and the airbox actually making a seal with the duct, but you get the point. And I thought it was just a paper filter based on price ($11.99), but it is, in fact, a cotton filter. We'll see if this one lasts before getting a higher quality filter.
And this is the Elantra filter on the Mazda airbox. Some trimming is required. I wish I had a silver marker so I could show my modification plans, but maybe you'll just have to wait and see.
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Got the top half of the new airbox figured out, screwed together and placed under the hood to check fitment issues.
This will be trimmed down in the final design to less than an inch tall.
And it looks like our major adversaries are the throttle body wheel, the engine hook thing, and distributor and maybe the breather.
The hook will simply be removed, I can always put it back if the engine should have to come out. The throttle body wheel and distributor, however, will need to be molded around. I'm wondering if maybe I can use some hard foam and shape it around those parts and use some clay or JB Weld or something to make a mold. The foam would ensure I have enough clearance between the box and those engine pieces. Hmm...
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Forgot to grab a couple things to start the fiberglass project, so I decided to keep working on the intake. Boneheaded move number one: I cut everything with the filter upside down Now I'll have to build back up everything I cut off. Oh well.
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Edit: I may have just determined how I will route the intake from the scoop box to the throttle body, assuming clearance is not an issue. Here's what I've got:
I've turned that 90* down and moved some of the wires that would have blocked my chosen path. I would like to go with a 90* 2.5" coupler if I can find one off the throttle body to the MAF. After the MAF there will be another coupler going into the bottom of the airbox. You can see me holding the IAT connector about where it would be located. Here's a diagram (sort of). The orange is the rough outline of the airbox and the green is the intake routing.
I think this could work pretty well. My first idea of moving the battery and snaking around the side got thrown out after taking a closer look. The brake master cylinder and transmission dipstick would have been in the way. Not back to that airbox...... I need some PlasticWeld.Last edited by irishkev90; 07-13-2013, 06:31 PM.
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