Brand New Idle Air Control Valve - 1995 Mazda Protege DX 1.5

[jsvalenzo]

Have had the low idle (500-550 rpm) blues since I bought the car. First I removed the throttle body, and cleaned parts tediously. Everything drastically improved, only the electronic idle remained low.
Base is solid @ 750 rpm. Remove the jumper and it drops. Then Recently I purchased the t25 tamper proof torx bit. Once again removed the throttle body and IAC valve. Only this time I cleaned IAC shaft and springs by removing the solenoid, thorough. but the idle remains low. Funny, Iac valve resistance measures ok.


SO ... Sunday I found a steal on "Pep Boys" - online - for a new IAC valve. [...Everyone is selling them new for $350 - $400 now ]
Anyways they had BWD's version for $250, + promo retailmenot code knocked off -$70...
Grand Total of $180 ()

Maybe this will be a success story... perhaps perhaps perhaps.

[jsvalenzo]

Installed new IAC Valve yesterday. Once again to no avail , same symptoms. Idles fine (750rpm) when in diagnostics mode, idles low (500rpm) with jumper removed....
Today I tried the cigar smoke into the brake booster hose. Couldn't find any vacuum leaks. I am out of ideas... I took multi-meter measurement of maf sensor... got 1.43 volts with engine off (*Ignition turned to 'on')... and got 2.09 volts with engine running, idling. The voltage increases and decreases smooth. Just not sure about the target range. Only literature I could find showed MAF Sensor voltage range to be 0-5v.

I am exhausted.. perhaps it's doomed.

[Kitty]

Try putting a block off gasket on the egr valve going to the manifold and see if that changes anything. The egr on the BHA was always problematic for me and it would create all sorts of weird conditions where it would stick open or closed for no apparent reason.

Do you have a slush box? If so does the idle searching change when in drive vs neutral?