I couldn't find anyone else doing a KJ swap anywhere, seems like nobody wants to touch those engines
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My 2002 KLZE Protege 5, kl to kj swap thread
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so it's just you and shurwood?1993 Mercury Tracer, KLDE VItara build swap, Compound turbos, 12 injectors, 2 wastegates, 2 Megasquirts, 2 axles, 2 everything, why not
2nd Compounded KL in the world
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No I don't own it anymore, I started the swap and traded it to Durwood, so it's the only KJ swap that I know of
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor
1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
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Originally posted by Damkid View PostSo are you basically doing that to increase the max boost? if so that's pretty awesome man!!sigpic
1992 Familia GT-X
1988 323 GTX
2011 F150 Lariat Ecoboost
2014 Civic Touring
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A buddy brought this up to me, what about putting in a boost controller right before the MAP sensor?
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor
1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
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I was discussing this a few pages back. The problem is that the MAP sensor measures boost, vac, and atmospheric pressure. It wouldn't be hard to rig up a check valve however. I am going to try this, but it won't fix the problem I currently have. The problem is hard to explain fully, you'd have to drive it to see. The two scenarios I described above are more than just different boost levels, the engine is completely lethargic when the MAP is hooked up properly, it even revs slow with the clutch pushed in.
I know why this is happening, fixing it is going to be difficult, as access to the OBDII parameters requires equipment I can't afford. I have a few ideas as always, just very little time to work on it, as I generally work 60 hrs a week. A solution is coming. For now the solution is just a switch that I can toggle between lots of power, and no low speed driveability, and driveability and no power.sigpic
1992 Familia GT-X
1988 323 GTX
2011 F150 Lariat Ecoboost
2014 Civic Touring
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If you were in the area i could have hooked up the ids at work to check the parameters for you to see91 protege gt. dropzone mx3 springs, mx3 crossmember, ractive front and rear strut braces, rear lower mx3 brace, 4 wheel disc brakes, corksport ss brake and clutch lines,kvr front pads, ractive cai,ram air hood scoop, modified front bumper, shaved ant and rear trunk lock, fubu ant, short shifter, corksport bronzeoil shifter bushings,92 glass sunroof and tail lights, mx3 center console, autometer gauges (volt and oil pressure) cluster needles painted to match, sound system, 17 inch eagle alloy 193 with 205 40 17 rubber. klze is ALIVE BABY!! . http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2394656http://www.toprotege.com/forums/show...hlight=project[url]
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I tried something I was sure wouldn't work just now, and... it worked! I reversed the vacuum lines going to the supercharger bypass, I accelerated really slow at first, as I didn't want it to over boost (Not that my map sensor would read more than 1 bar anyway), and I'm getting 12 psi now with a smooth idle. It's not the 1 bar I was hoping for, but it's a start. I definitely need to get those spark plugs in though, bad misfire at anything above 10 psi. I only drove it around the block this way so far, I'm going over to the next town tonight, I'm hoping for no new codes.
I also cut the muffler off today, as it was hanging too low, and I was going to weld it on at a different angle. Then I remembered I used all my welding wire last week. I clamped on a piece of pipe for now, it's not too too loud, but it's definitely not acceptable.
Also, I keep forgetting to mention, what I said earlier about the engine braking being non existent was fixed right after I wrote that, it was just a vacuum leak that caused it to rev down really slowly.sigpic
1992 Familia GT-X
1988 323 GTX
2011 F150 Lariat Ecoboost
2014 Civic Touring
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Just drove the car 50km. No new codes. I made a couple of pulls before it fully warmed up (misfire when hot), and I get full boost almost right away, then it falls off toward redline. This makes sense, as the pcm allows for 7 psi boost under normal circumstances, this obviously simply relates to a stored pulse width to send to the solenoids controlling the bypass actuator position. So when it starts asking for boost, as it did really late before, it actually drops boost. The fact that this didn't throw a code has given me an idea on how to get it working 100%. I'll control the boost myself, and loop the actuator control lines, that SHOULD keep everything happy.
If that doesn't work, the pcm will need to be programmed, there's no other way.
... or perhaps klze heads, FMIC, klg4 ECU, fmu, etc...sigpic
1992 Familia GT-X
1988 323 GTX
2011 F150 Lariat Ecoboost
2014 Civic Touring
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Boost control fault on the way to work today there's a possibility one of the solenoids is on it's way out though, so not all is lost.
I had a good idea if the car ends up working with the boost controller setup the way I have it. Twin charge. It's a perfect scenario. Wouldn't need to add anything fueling wise. Just set the wastegate at 15 psi, done. It would make more power than the supercharger alone, even if it held 15 psi to redline, as there is less load on the engine when it is bypassing.
We'll see. I'm just frustrated, yet still very optimistic.Last edited by DuRWooD; 02-01-2012, 11:38 AM.sigpic
1992 Familia GT-X
1988 323 GTX
2011 F150 Lariat Ecoboost
2014 Civic Touring
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^^x2!! You've done more with that car then I think I would have been able to, it sounds like a bit more tweaking and you'll have it up to 100%
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor
1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
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