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    #1

    Replacing the oil pan on the 03...

    Found me a suitable donor at the JY today. If luck holds for me tomorrow I should be getting a matching Black Mica spoiler and fog light assembly.

    Anyhow the engine that is the donor has a cork gasket between the engine and the lower oil pan (mine's rusty and I need to make a 3,000 mile trip soon so I'd just assume replace it before going). Pan literally looks to have been replaced days before hitting the yard as the oil inside is still clean. Makes me wonder why the car is here since there's no body damage.

    I noticed that other Pros/Probes had gray sealant between the lower pan and engine.

    Is there any harm in using a new cork gasket, or, should I get me some gray RTV to use on mine?

    Also, anyone know offhand if there's a particular order to torquing the bolts once I have the pan in place? TIA.
    Tags: None
    #2
    You should use sealant on the inside edge of the oil pan. Run a bead all the way around, making a straight line between the bolt holes and around the inside of the bolt holes. There's no torque spec or sequence given in the factory service manual. It also makes no mention of a gasket on the oil pan.
    1995 626: daily beater, mostly stock. Future NASA racer?

    Next up: Speed6 or RX-8

    Comment

      #3
      According to the Engine Workshop Manual FS which covers rebuilding of the FS-DE engines, a bead of silicone sealant should be run around the mounting surface between the bolt holes and the inner edge of the lower pan. Use sealant for a leak-free installation.

      If the bolts are reused, remove the old sealant from the bolt threads as tightening a bolt that has old sealant on it can cause bolt hole damage. There is no special tightening sequence for the lower pan bolts (although there is one for the upper block pan bolts). The torque specs for all pan bolts, upper and lower, is 14-18 ft/lbs (19-25 Nm).

      Happy Motoring!
      Last edited by goldstar; 03-26-2011, 01:23 AM.
      02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
      MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
      MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
      Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
      MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
      Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
      Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
      Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
      Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
      Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
      Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
      Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
      Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

      Comment

        #4
        Awesome, exactly what I was thinking. It is odd that FelPro makes a gasket for this application, however...unless that's for people who wish to reuse a warped pan.

        Now let's hope I can get my fog lights and spoiler this morning as well!
        Last edited by smokstac; 03-26-2011, 05:12 AM.

        Comment

          #5
          w00T! Got the oil pan, spoiler, fog light switch, relay, all wiring, and both fog lights for $55.

          Comment

            #6
            Nice going. Good luck with the installation.

            Happy Motoring!
            02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
            MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
            MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
            Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
            MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
            Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
            Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
            Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
            Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
            Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
            Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
            Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
            Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

            Comment

              #7
              Two months later, a move across country, and I finally got it installed.

              Hardest part really was moving the J-pipe out of the way. The actual oil pan removal didn't take long nor did scraping the RTV residue off the bottom of the engine. That came very clean with minimal fuss.

              Beaded up the top of the replacement pan with black RTV and pushed the pan into place. Then I finger tightened all the bolts until the pan was just snug. Returning about 45 minutes later I used a 12mm socket to gently turn the bolts about 1/2-3/4 of another turn and then walked away for the night. Next morning, filled it up, no leaks.

              I did notice however that the intake screen was somewhat dirty so I took the opportunity to clean that while the oil pan was off. Engine was sort of brownish inside...is this normal for 120k miles or did someone not use high quality detergent oil prior to me?

              Comment

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