Fuse for battery in trunk relocation

[ftjandra]

I am relocating my battery to my trunk (1st gen Protege) and was wondering what size fuse I should use close to the battery. Thanks for the help.

--Ferdi

[MazdaRacer]

none really, but 60amp should be fine.

[blue LEDz]

none really, but 60amp should be fine.

none? what happens if the jacket wears off the power cable and grounds out? bye bye protege from the fire

if you can get someone to measure the current draw when you start your car, go with a fuse over that amount. 150-200 amp should probably be fine.

[MazdaRacer]

what do you think the main fuse is for? (The OEM main fuse) there's no fuse at the battery when it's up front, why in the back?

If it's run right, there's no way you'll eat through a 4awg jacket...

[blue LEDz]

what do you think the main fuse is for? (The OEM main fuse) there's no fuse at the battery when it's up front, why in the back?

If it's run right, there's no way you'll eat through a 4awg jacket...

the main power wire also doesn't run through the firewall, so no fuse is needed from the battery to the alt or starter

*if* it's run right. granted, i've never had any problems, but i'd rather be safe than sorry. it's simple to add an inline fuse holder with a 200 amp fuse. heck, i even have a bunch of 4 guage ANL fuse holders laying around, and you could put up to a 300 amp fuse in there. it would just be there for short circuit protection.

[MazdaRacer]

ok fine, put a fuse on it

[ftjandra]

Thanks for the info guys. Yeah, I know the chance that the insulation will get worn through is super slim, but I'll put a fuse by the battery just for safety. I have an extra ANL fuse holder with a 150amp fuse anyways.

--Ferdi

[electricjesus]

[QUOTE=MazdaRacer]what do you think the main fuse is for? (The OEM main fuse) there's no fuse at the battery when it's up front, why in the back?

arebt there fusable links in ypur engine bay that act as a fuse in case of an accident or shorting?

[blue LEDz]

arebt there fusable links in ypur engine bay that act as a fuse in case of an accident or shorting?

not all cars have them. my 3rd gen pro didn't have a fusable link, that i knew of. it certainly didn't have one from the alt to the battery, or the battery to the main fuse box. but the main fuse box did have a 100 amp fuse. if the wire from the alt to the battery, or the starter to the battery shorted out, it would burn itself, but not much more.

[Pastor_Protege]

I just did this in my car and I took it to a stereo shop for some info. THe guy there told me they would put a 200 amp breaker in if they were doing it. So that's what I did. The breaker is better so you don't have to replace a fuse if it blows. The only problem is that they are a little pricey (at least from a stereo shop).

[blue LEDz]

there's more of a problem to breakers than just the price. they are a mechanical device, so over time, along with corrosion and whatever the elements do to the breaker, they will fail and not work properly. a fuse doesn't deteriorate over time or work less effectively. a breaker does. unless you get one of the $500 electronically controlled breakers, which is the best way to go.

[RonBurgundy]

alright, so besides the long positive cable being run from the trunk to the engine bay to go to the starter, is there a need to run a separate wire from the battery all the way up to the fuse box?
I know that from the standard + terminal, there's 2 wires:one to the starter, and one to the main fuse box...do i still need to replicate this routing while putting it in the back?

[almighty4wd]

Best way to run: 1 wire from battery to front. Joins the 2 wires at the front: 1 to starter, 1 to fuse box. I made it simple, used a bolt to hold the stock battery connector to my trunk run wire. Its like stock wiring, but the battery post is a little farther away (and the ground is to a seat bolt hole). does that make sense? I can take a pic if it doesn't.

[RonBurgundy]

cool, that's how i was picturing it for the most part. one of my coworkers was suggesting running a separate one for each, but from what you guys were doing, sounded like it wasn't necessary.
could you take a pic of the adjoining section from the new cable to the stock cable?
I bought some 2 gauge wire from home depot to use for the relocation. Pretty much found a spot in the firewall to run it (grommet with speedo cable) i just wasn't sure if there'd be any problem connecting the 2 gauge to the smaller factory gauge wiring right at the stock terminal.
Sounds like it'd be ok...

So far, I've got the battery box mounted in the trunk, the route picked out for where to run the cable, the cable, and a couple of inline fuses to mount in the front and rear. Oh yeah, i wire brushed the surface of the new ground bolt in the back. (Same bolt you mentioned)