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JP Motorsports BG/BF/GT4 Rear subframe production and discussion.
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Just for clarification, we are talking about the 4 points that attach the subframe to the body, Correct?Ian Boyd- Bellingham, WA (click vehicle to view)
1988 BF GTX
1990 x2 BG AWD Protege
1991 Escort GT- SOLD
1975 911 S Widebody 3.6 conversion
2005 Corolla
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Originally posted by DuRWooD View PostI haven't had a chance to actually go and look yet, but it appears the 4WD uses studs with a nut, and the 2WD has a bolt that goes up through. I wish they said the size of the bolts on these diagrams.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]60395[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]60396[/ATTACH]
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor
1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
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One of the mount bolts for the rear AWD subframe.... It's a 17mm nut
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor
1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
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that should be M12's
Where as the FWD's use 14mm bolts [M10] ****(but the holes are larger then a M10 spec)---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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The holes in the subframe I had here had like 3/4" ID sleeves in bushings---we used 3/4" bolts to mock it up...must be some kind of reduction someplace...Last edited by JPmotorsports; 07-01-2013, 01:30 PM.sigpicwww.piercemotorsports.com www.piercemotorsport.com Like us on facebook http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/p...91292610897146
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^ not nessicarily. the FWD's have a location pin for placement. whilest having oversized holes- perhaps the AWD is the same??---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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The bolts measure 12mm. There is no alignment hole in the AWD subframe...
Also, in the expanded diagram, if you look , part 28-880 is the reducer that goes over the stud. It's listed as "RUBBER MTG, MEMBER".
Here are some pictures of my subframe (still on the car, not coming off any time soon.)
interesting hole going nowhere.....
--sarge
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Make one for the BJ/P5 and I'll buy one!
HPLogic Mustang Dyno @ 15psi on MS1 v3 226 whp / 195 ft-lb [HD Video]
Soon to be powered by a Precision snail on crack...
Add me on more pictures of my projects can be found there.
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In my second picture, the front of the car is to the right, this is the drivers-left side of the car. That "interesting hole" seems like it might just be the one used for the FWD subframe mounts.
Which makes me think two things:
One, I'd like to see if that hole actually lines up on a FWD car. just for curiosity's sake.
Two, that they made the 4WD subframe mounts further back for more than just mounting the diff, but also for some needed bracing. If you think about it, with the rear wheels being driven, the front of the diff is going to want to come up. This will in turn put some stress on the subframe to rotate forward, putting lots of load on the rear subframe bolt. Consider the front of the diff to be the lever, the front bolt to be the fulcrum, and the rear bolt to be the load. With the mounting bolts closer together, it gives the diff more leverage on the subframe. With the mounts further apart, it solidifies the subframe a bit and gives it more resistance to forward rotation, hence less strain on the rear mounting bolts/studs, which also happen to be a size larger for the 4WD (12mm instead of 10mm).
So, for mounting this in a FWD car, with real power going through it, I think it might be wise to consider somehow strengthening the actual pickup points on the unibody.
This is just a thought; I don't know if it's an actual issue, or just my paranoia of breaking things, lol! Granted, this BG 4WD platform was homologated for WRC, so they may have anticipated more loads on it than anything most of us would be throwing at it.
--sarge
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Originally posted by DuRWooD View PostMeasure up the mounting points, I'm sure they're different, but perhaps the same.
Here's the BJ subframe drawing:
HPLogic Mustang Dyno @ 15psi on MS1 v3 226 whp / 195 ft-lb [HD Video]
Soon to be powered by a Precision snail on crack...
Add me on more pictures of my projects can be found there.
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very interesting point to consider sarge!!---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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So where we at here? Is information still needed Jim? If so can I get a reminder of what info is outstanding? I'm feeling quite motivated since picking up my trans this weekend.Ian Boyd- Bellingham, WA (click vehicle to view)
1988 BF GTX
1990 x2 BG AWD Protege
1991 Escort GT- SOLD
1975 911 S Widebody 3.6 conversion
2005 Corolla
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