Mp5t

[BRIAN MP5T]

HALTECH

L'approche facile, plus c'est un bon endroit pour les spectacles automobiles comme la couverture s'enlève facilement.

[chrmar]

I know that lighthouse...

[BRIAN MP5T]

Freddy Beach

[chrmar]

Indeed! I saw the thread on NBAT when you posted these pictures a while back. I can't seem to ever find a copy of that magazine anymore, however...

[Mazda_Powered]

car looking great!

[BRIAN MP5T]

New CRUNK.

Looks Great, Feels Better..

[BRIAN MP5T]

Coiled Cable is the horn, exactly like the Porsche Le Mans car.

[progtmp5]

wow your ride is so hmmmm the best!!!!

[scort4life]

That chick is hot!!!

OH Yeah! NICE RIDE to! LOL!!

[BRIAN MP5T]

So This post might not make sense because it is 4 months worth of posting...


"I really think that Less is More if there is an extreme amount of "Less".

Each and every part is selected based on, Function and Reliability, Then It Must never stand out, seem out of place, and it must be part of the rest.

I do not want a bunch of parts in a car, I want a Single Perfect Machine."

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• 2002 Mazda MP5 Turbo
• HALTECH SPORT 1000 Full Standalone
• RACEPACK IQ3 Digital Display
• Garret Custom GT-28s
• 8.5:1 CP Pistons
• Oliver Rods,
• TOGA Rod Berings,
• TOGA Mains,
• ARP Rod Bolts.
• LS1 Coil Conversion
• Full Crank Balance, Deck/Head, Deglaze, Align Hone.
• Intake Manifold Extrudehoned, VCTS Disabled
• Head Extrudehoned, ARP Head Studs
• Tri Point Adjustable Timing Gear
• Custom Sidewinder 304 Stainless Turbo Manifold
• DEI Header Wrap
• 2.75" Turbo Back Exhaust
• Apex-I N1
• Spearco Full Front Intercooler
• T-6 Ron Davis Prototype Triple Pass Radiator
• KVR Nickel Plated Cross Drilled Rotors
• Sparco Torino Seats w/4 Point
• TEIN - SS Full Suspension
• AWR Motor Mounts
• AWR Adjustable End Links
• AWR 21 MM Anti Sway
• ACT Stage IIR Clutch
• Turbo XS Bov-RFL
• Tial 35mm Wastegate
• BRAILE 11 Lb Battery
• NO Audio System
• NO Air Conditioner
• NO HEATER
• NO Power Steering
• NO Stock ECU

Some New Goodies.

A Second Summer Spare Engine. There is nothing wrong with the current forged motor, just wanted a second spare in the garage ready to go.....

Arias 8.5:1 Ceramic Coated Piston with Teflon Skirt.
Pauter Forged Rods





WP116SHD

This is a remote mounted coolant pump.

It has these Pros.

1. It is not driven by the motor.
-It does not drag the engine all the time
-It is not slaved to the RPM of the engine.
-It can be set to run for 30 seconds after the engine has shut off.
-It can be set to 80% on a switch, to be used the 2 minutes before you park the car. (Park your car at 60Deg vs 100Deg)

2. It is variable as set by the Haltech, You set a target temperature and the Haltech maintains that temperature by adjusting the speed of the pump. So in theory,
-If I am stuck in traffic, this sucker will probably be running about 70% in conjunction with the fan likely doing 55% duty.
-If I am blasting down the highway, it will alternate between 20% and 30% depending on the day, just to hold the engine at 90 Deg C. (This Becomes The New Thermostat)





LOL



Oh FUN!!

With the Big Blue and the Small Red, the base minimum wastegate is 20.7 PSI, then the Haltech ECU takes the engine to 23 at 3rd 25 at 4th and 27.5 at 5th gear



So I am in Afghanistan but here is an Update... Sorry it will be hard to make sense of because it is actually 10 Posts that have been CTRL+C CTRL+V...

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Parts for the spring...

6x Solid State Relay SSR 5-220V DC, 40A + Heat Sink (Electric Water Pump, Fal Cooling Fan, Fuel Pump, Master Relay for Haltech, HID Headlights, Spare)



10x 6 Position 35A 600V Terminal Block with Clear Cover

8x 12 Position 35A 600V Terminal Block with Clear Cover

(Looks like this but wider with more terminals)


Rewiring the monster, I tried not to rush when it was all installed the first time, but it's really hard to work on and makes no sense.

The entire dash will be removed so that I have full access to the firewall...


100ft Red 14ga
100ft Red 18ga
25ft Red 10 ga (Electric Water Pump)

100ft Black 14ga
100ft Black 18ga
25ft Black 10 ga (Electric Water Pump)

50ft Yellow 14ga
50ft Yellow 18ga
50ft Blue 14ga
50ft Blue 18ga
50ft White 14ga
50ft White 18ga
50ft Orange 18ga
50ft Brown 18ga
50ft Pink 18ga
50ft Green 18ga

14" Disk
8 Piston Caliper



Today I picked up a couple hundred dollars in Russell Fittings and Stainless Steel Braided hoses ranging from 1/4 Inch to 1.25 Inch.

This will make up the Electric Cooling system in MP5T.

The pump will be mounted after the engine, but will pump reverse (Down from the Head to the Block)

The benefits are well documented, the only negatives are that it is difficult to remove air from the system unless a surge tank is added and various hoses are run to allow the air at the top to be replaced with coolant.

The rad cap on the radiator will be removed and replaced with an aluminum plate TIG welded in place.

A 28 Ounce surge tank with a 25 PSI cap will replace the OEM located rad cap.

The top and bottom of the Radiator already have AN6 and AN8 provisions for such a design. They let air leave the top of the rad to the surge tank where it is vented out and replaced with Draw In Coolant from a reservoir.

The system is loosely based off of most VW and Porsche systems, where the reservoir is where the cap is..

The Mezire 45 Gal/Min Electric pump will be mounted inside the firewall and will draw coolant from the top driver side of the radiator (thus why it is imperative that there is no air there..) and force it into the top of the motor with an AN16 SS Hose.

The coolant Temp sensor will have to be moved to the opposite side of the motor.
The Stock water pump (Belt Driven) is being removed and replaced with a 1/2 Inch Aluminum block plate, thus freeing up more HP to drive the transmission. The Coolant sensor will sit in this plate to give an accurate reading.

The Haltech in conjunction with two solid state relays will drive the Electric Pump and Electric Fan on a variable duty cycle by pulsing the power.

There is NO MECHANICAL THERMOSTAT in this system to regulate the temperature. The Haltech is now the thermostat.

Eg.
Below 50 DegC, the pump will run 5% and the Fan will be off.
Below 60 DegC the pump will run 5% and the Fan will be off.
Below 70 DegC the pump will run 5% and the fan will be off.
Below 80 DegC the pump will run 10% and the fan will be off.
Below 90 DegC the pump will run 15% and he fan will run 10%.
Below 100 DegC the pump will run 20% and the fan will run 15%.
Above 100 DegC (Target Operating Temp) the pump will gradually run to 50% and the fan will gradually run to 75% to hold below 105 DegC
Above 108 DegC (Over Target) the Pump and fan will run 75%.
Above 115 DegC (Well Over Target) the pump will run 80% and the fan will be 100%

There should never be a reason to run the pump over 50%, it is intended for use on Supercharged V8 Monsters 45 Gal/Min.

Note at 100 to 105 the pump will be totally aggressive. I believe that I will literally see the pump duty cycle on the laptop rage between 20 and 50 as the temp goes up and down by 2 Degrees. If the pump alone is not able to remove heat (Stuck In Traffic) then the fan becomes much more active as well.

A manual override will put both pump and fan at 100% on a switch, which is good for problems, or as you are approaching the house to kill engine temps before parking, or kill engine temps when staging.

The entire system is focused on freeing up HP and making the cooling system more effective at holding a solid operating temperature.

I need this so that I can tune the car for one temperature and have it hold there.



The Protege uses a VR sensor on 4 corners for Speed and ABS.

Aftermarket ECUs need a Hall Effect Signal and cant operate on the weak signal of a VR sensor.

I am going to use "Clutch Speed Sensor Kit"

PCS - Powertrain Control Solutions - Data Logging Sensors & Accessories





Road Speed Sensor Hall Effect solution for MP5T.

On the driveshafts where it meets the Transmission there is a Cylindrical Attachment that is the Constant Velocity joint.

My plan is to drill the tiny rare earth 1/4" magnet into this part and mount a Hall Effect sensor on Both Sides of the transmission.

The calibration process is very simple, you tell the Haltech how much distance is traveled for each pulse.
You also tell the Haltech what the Gear Ratios are and it will automatically look at the Ratio between RPM/SPEED and display what gear you are in (When Moving). If the ratio does not make sense to the Haltech, It will assume that you have the clutch depressed and will display a flashing "N" in the gear display on the IQ3.

The Haltech will register Clutch Slip as well as Single Wheel spin if it has both sides logged.

I will be able to use the Gear Indicator and log in greater detail.


The magnet is only a 1/4" Cylinder that is 6mm Tall. The kit comes with a cobalt drill that is sized to match the magnets tight fit. It has to be pressed in or tapped in with a rubber hammer. They recommend that Epoxy (High Temp) be used to hold the magnet in place. There are several spare magnets in the kit so if the improbable happens, it can be replaced.

I believe that the pulling force that the magnet will see from road speed conditions will be quite low due to the size of the drive shaft and the small mass of the magnet.

In the picture of the driveshaft, on the left side is where it would go into the transmission. That CV joint is where the 3mm deep hole would be drilled to mount the magnet. The Sensor comes with several brackets to aid in mounting the sensor in the right geometry and distance from the sensor. I plan to mount the bracket on the aluminum transmission case just over the driveshaft.

OMFG This is AWESOME!

Brian,

No problem on your designed Digital Pulse Output request. Engineering's response below:


Dear Eric,

I have a created an issue for the Sport to add Coolant and Air Temperature to the axis selection of the Generic Duty Output Table. Issue #5028
This will allow a 32 x 32 table to be available for your customer.

I will try and have this done for v1.09, but there is a good chance it will not get completed until v1.10.
There is still a large amount of work we still have to do for v1.09 and time is running out.

Kind regards,


Nathan Clark
R&D Manager


-Eric Gash
Haltech USA

Here is a graph showing how I think they might work as a Thermostat..



So the MP5T plan for the spring just got a bit better.

I am planning to get a set of PAR Straight Cut Gears for the MP5T

The stock gear ratios in the protege are truly too low for the engine that I have.

3000 RPM is like 105 ish Km/h
4000 RPM is like 125 ish Km/h
and with a stock red line of 6500. and power falling off around 6000, you see that to do any sort of long distance driving at any slightly higher than legal speed is truly just painful. The engine is turning too fast for nothing with no need to downshift, just plant the gas to the floor and your GONE, then you are begging for 6th gear.

The research now is just looking at a taller 5th gear, but the problem with that is that the 4th is very short, so downshifting from 5th will be a mis match, shooting the tach through the top.

The next step is looking at a taller final drive which would bring the entire range taller, and then adding a slightly taller 5th.



I have updated the plan.

With the PAR gears, like the middle, the car would accelerate to 160 Km/h in 3rd gear and on to well over 270Km/h before I believe it will be held by wind resistance. The gears are $4300 plus a new LSD so I want to get the ratios correct.



Photoshop Stuff.

Decided to vector a picture of the car..

The actual picture is 50+Mb in size but I have reduced it here.

It's been printed at work 36x50 Inches.

[BRIAN MP5T]

PS I won a Quaiffe LSD for $200 on Ebay..

[tehstocker99]

sweet Brian!! glad to see you're still at it! thought you got rid of the car by now or something, been a while

[BRIAN MP5T]

14 Inch Brakes In The SPRING!

So A Consolidated list of the work being done in the spring.

- Engine: Block and Head are being Tanked. Crank removed and balanced to the new Arias Ceramic& Teflon coated 8.5:1 Pistons and Pauter forged Rods. The Cylinders are being resurfaced to the size of the slight 0.2 overbore pistons. Clevite Bearings. ARP Main Studs. Cometic Head Gasket. New Valve seals, Resurface contact point for valve seat.

- Transmission: Full removal of contents of a second transmission. A Full set of straight cut PAR Engineering gears. Double Syncros. Gear ratios extended such that new 1st gear is as tall as stock 2nd, New 2nd is as tall as stock 3rd... etc.... giving a 5th gear top speed of 310 Km/h at 7000 RPM. 3.5:1 final drive, Quaife Helical LSD. ARP Bolts. SPEC Stage 3+ Solid Clutch & Pressure Plate 425Ft/Lb Clamp. Spec 6.8Lb Flywheel. ARP Flywheel Bolts. ShaftMaster Drive shafts. New Front Bearings, New Poly_U bushings on hubs. SS Clutch Lines, New Clutch Master, Clutch Servo.

- Brakes: 14" K-SPORT 8 Piston Brakes (1.28 Cm Clearance inside an 18" Rim). New Brake Master, SS Lines. MS6 Rear Big Brake Conversion

- Electrical: Complete re installation of wiring with Solid State Relays and custom Fuse Panel. Re-Location of 11Lb Braile Battery inside the dash behind the firewall closest to the starter. Custom bracket for 110 Amp "Tuff Stuff" One wire Ford alternator on front of engine.
Install Variable Electric Pump Control and Variable Electric Cooling Fan Control.

- Water Cooling: Install Mezire 45 Gal/m Electric water pump with Russel Fitting on Stainless Braided Quick disconnect hoses. Remove stock mechanical water pump and replace with a blocking plate. Install a Coolant remote container, and coolant overflow.

- Suspension: Remove TIEN SS Suspension (160,000Km) and install new K-SPORT Coilovers. Replace all Bushings in rear AWR 21mm Bar, and rear suspension.

- Fuel Delivery: New Aeromotive Haltech controlled Electronic Fuel Pressure Regulator (65 PSI under boost, 40 at idle).

- Sensors: Hall Effect Shaft Speed sensors on both front drive shafts.

- Body: Paint Front and Rear Bumpers from a JDM SPORT-20 and Install. Remove Stickers from running boards and repaint. Repaint Both A-Pillars.

- Exhaust: Reposition APEX-i N1 6" shorter due to the JDM bumper being 6" shorter.

- Ignition: AEM CDI Twin Fire Direct Coil On Plug. System Will fire several sparks at once.

All this should be a 15 Grand "Freshen Up" on MP5T to start up Spring 2011.

I will point out... None of that money is wasted on stupid stereo, lights or other **** that does not make the car move. This is Not A Show Car.

So I did a Photoshop of the 14" Disks K-Sport BBK in the front and 13" in the rear.. I think it's going to look ****ing SICK in the spring. I'm really excited.

[wgnths]

clean wagon

[BRIAN MP5T]

So Haltech is awesome, they not only answer E-Mails quickly, they also modify the Software/Firmware to add features that you request.

The electric cooling system consists of a ECU Controlled Coolant Pump and an ECU Controlled FAL Flex-Lite fan.

Both of these are driven by a Solid State Relay. The ECU is able to vary the speed of the Pump and Fan, by pulsing a 12v signal many times per second. The longer the pulse, the closer the item will get to it's full speed.

Because the signal is Pulsed, the device can be made to run at very low speeds.

The Haltech team were able to make a 32x32 user programmable Generic Duty Cycle Table. Each Output can have it's own map.

X and Y and can be changed to any of the following.

Speed Sensor, RPM, MAP, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Gear, Air Temp, Fuel Temp, Coolant Temp, Gear Selected, EGT, AFR... Almost any situation can trigger the output.

I have Engine Temperature and Load as the X-Y with Duty Cycle as the Output. The ECU has 8 Outputs of this nature, so other possibilities is a transmission cooling system, Additional Cooling Fans, Automatic Intercooler Sprayers (IAT=On/Off Spray). Literally Awesome Support.

Here is what it will look like.



A Note: There is no mechanical thermostat, the pump duty cycle is the thermostat.

You will notice that the pump will gradually increase as I get close to the target of 95 Deg to 100 Deg. If the coolant goes over the target, then the pump will aggressively drop the temperature. The Fan will work with the pump to control the engine temperature.

I believe that there will be some changes to the maps to make the balance between Fan and Pump requirements perfect.

The point is to make the system only use the power required to maintain the engine temperature.

If the car is blasting down the highway on a cold day, it is likely that the pump will not go over 40% which is a 0.70 Amp load.

BONUS MARKS FOR THE ONE THAT CORRECTLY EXPLAINS WHY I WOULD WANT A BLOCK OF 90% NUMBERS IN THE MIDDLE OF THAT MAP