Give South Bend a call. They'll either suggest the TZ Stage 2 or the DXD for your setup. Prices are fair, and they're great guys to work with.
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DeeAOne's BF KLDE Swap.
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just go with good material & a decent pound pressure plate---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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Originally posted by DeeAOne View PostMine lasted about 15k-20k. I'm going name brand this time. Lol
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Originally posted by concealer404 View PostGive South Bend a call. They'll either suggest the TZ Stage 2 or the DXD for your setup. Prices are fair, and they're great guys to work with.
Originally posted by Ace View Postwhen it comes to clutches you get what you pay for. I don't trust ebay clutches at all, I don't see the point it spending a little less money for all the labor involved you might as well spend a bit more and KNOW it's gonna hold. I've got like 1300 miles on my spec 2+ so far and it's awesome. I love to feel of it, the pedal isn't very hard but it grabs hard. I just resurfaced the stock flywheel too.Last edited by DeeAOne; 05-11-2011, 01:14 AM.
'88 323 sedan, K-swapped..
'03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege - miss it so much..
'01 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins - 323 hauler
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Originally posted by Ace View Postwhen it comes to clutches you get what you pay for. I don't trust ebay clutches at all, I don't see the point it spending a little less money for all the labor involved you might as well spend a bit more and KNOW it's gonna hold. I've got like 1300 miles on my spec 2+ so far and it's awesome. I love to feel of it, the pedal isn't very hard but it grabs hard. I just resurfaced the stock flywheel too.
they use Competition Clutches for their 6 puck clutches. At least they use to, because my first clutch back 5yrs ago from F1 racing was Competition Clutch, and retailed for $400 and I paid $210 shipped to Canada.
So with that in mind, you do get what you pay for...a hell of a deal-Jack
ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/
91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)
01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested
91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606
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im running a southbend tz in my mx3.... it always grabbed really good, took it to the track and it started slipping after hot lapping about 25 times... but after I let it cool down....HOLY **** that ****er grabs nasty hard now... annihilates 3rd gear... go with the TZ
1992 MX-3 GS - KLZE
1997 Probe GT
Its not a BP05.... Its a BPOS... BIG PIECE OF ****
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The TZ is not the best choice for drag racing, but how often do you get to make 25 passes in hot lap format at the drag strip?
The reason why it start slipping is because it's a Kevlar clutch, doesn't deal with heat very well. It does NOT like to be slipped, which is exactly what you need to do to get a good launch on a FWD car from a stop. However, once you're already moving, it'll grab fast, and HARD through the rest of your drive.
I'm going with the TZ for my application for that reason.
If you're going to be doing a LOT of drag racing (or dig racing, whatever), get a DXD. Otherwise, the TZ is a great choice. If you're going to continue doing roll racing, TZ.
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For what it's worth:
My friends got a turbo setup that makes about 500Hp, and they prefer to use custom made copper button clutches. The company that they use specializes in truck clutches like mentioned elsewhere in this thread.
A other friend of mine also use a custom made copper button clutch on his 200kw (268Hp) NA rotary powered F1000 truck. He is currently on ±40 000 km (25000 miles) and no problems yet, and believe me, he really gives his vehicle some stick.mazda stands by you
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Good news I think!
I noticed that the clutch was only slipping bad when it was very hot outside. Hot temperatures made the underhood temps shoot up of course, and the clutch line really hot as well. I think this caused the fluid to expand just enough to make it slip(master cylinder even at rest was close to having the clutch engaged) So I put a shorter bolt in back of the master cylinder, and so far it has stopped slipping all together.
It didn't slip yesterday evening, but I'm waiting until the hottest part of the day to test it again. Hope it works.
I hope I didn't confuse you guys. lol
And in other good news, I ran an NSX last week. You can guess who won.
I know they aren't super fast, but $1500 323 > $30000 NSX is a nice thought. lolLast edited by DeeAOne; 05-21-2011, 08:25 PM.
'88 323 sedan, K-swapped..
'03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege - miss it so much..
'01 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins - 323 hauler
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excellent find!!! explain more about this bolt in the master cylinder---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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southbend clutch ftw! my fully built boosted FE3 has been running there OFE for over 5 years. and ive ran everything from there Rally clutch, to there TZ, and have never had any issue, and has been the best clutch's ive ever ran. and if its a mazda, i wouldnt even think of going with a different brand.
ive owned so many cars, ive pretty much ran every brand you can think of though. act, and centerforce clutch's are pretty good and have treated me well. but id still choose the southbend clutch above them now.
the only clutch ive ever had fail was Spec. and it failed horribly right off the bat. then they made me send it in to make sure it was there fault. well it was. so they replaced it for me. well the 2nd Spec slipped right from the install. that 2nd Spec never saw more then 1/4 pedal cause it would just start slipping. SPec clutch is the only failure ive ever had. and it happened twice.. thats a ****ty ass product. i ended up replacing the spec with a southbend stage 1, and never had an issue again. id trust a OEM replacement before id install a spec in any of my cars again.~PaTricK~
-Current car's-
~ 92 Probe GT Turbo, 90 FE3 Turbo 626GT hatch, 97 KL mtx 626, 05 Mazda6, 09 Kia Sportage V6~
What are you driving?
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Maybe the picture will help.
The back of the cylinder, where the rod would go that connects to the pedal and pushes in that plunger when you hit the clutch pedal, I had a really long bolt in it that when I pushed the pedal, it pushes the plunger in, in the cylinder. It's ghetto I know, but it works great. lol
Anyway I think the whole time the bolt was just a little bit too long, because even when the pedal was in resting position the plunger was already pushed in about halfway. I found a shorter bolt, and walah, no issues yet.Last edited by DeeAOne; 05-22-2011, 02:24 PM.
'88 323 sedan, K-swapped..
'03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege - miss it so much..
'01 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins - 323 hauler
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Yep, having your clutch m/c engaged when the pedal is at rest will give you issues lol. Glad you figured it out!-Jack
ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/
91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)
01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested
91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606
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