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I'll take some pics on Monday. The gauge pod is just a universal one that I molded with a heat gun/trimmed/ and drilled some holes. Then I covered the screws/bolts I used with little covers lol I wish it were grey, but black looks okay too. I'm 99 percent sure I have the firing order right. I think pashka is right at 1342...I'll take some pics though.
So I hate plastic parts. I broke the nipple off the vacuum line that goes to that little solenoid that comes from the intake manifold to the little solenoid to the fuel pressure regulator. I don't know what it is, but I'll have to get another one.
You can run the vacuum line to any vac source on the intake manifold straight to the fuel pressure regualtor. IIRC it raises the fuel pressure only by a little bit. Also the gtx/gtrs don't have that solenoid.
Okay cool that's what I did was just run it straight to the fpr lol I threw my old injectors on there knowing that they work, but I think the plugs are fouled out now. The cars not staying running. Firing order is right at 1342 counterclockwise. We're getting current to the injector plugs, and we're getting fuel pressure. I'm really thinking it's the injectors. Like I said I put my old ones on and I'm gonna get some new plugs and see if that fixes it. I know I can't drive it on the N/A injectors, but at least I'll know if it's the injectors. :/ also I need to get the timing set. I think I've read 14* btdc for the turbo BP/vj20? I've also read 12*
Last edited by Redscortgt93; 10-01-2013, 10:53 AM.
timing depends on what type gas you are running run 93 if at all possible with the gtx/gtr ecu. if you are not running a knock sensor run 14 degrees with 93 since the gtx/gtr ecu retards timing a couple degrees without it. stock timing on the gtx was 10.
Okay so today we messed around with it some more...can't even get it to stay running. We double checked the timing marks on the belt and made sure everything was TDC-check...plugs gapped and clean at 0.030 thousandths-check...verified working injectors(NA injectors just for starting)-check...all grounds and harness plugged in-check...Bp26 ecu plugged in and repinned 2L/2M-check...4 wire TPS installed-check...WILL NOT START at all...it'll roll over, but it sounds like the timing is waaayyy off and won't get that OOMPH to start. Turning the disty slowly from one extreme to the other does nothing. I did a bit of experimenting and plugged in my old NA ecu...m'fer starts right up...although it idles high at about 1800rpm, it does fire right up. So my thought was, "is my ecu an authentic BP26?" I had read that fake ones were floating around. Here's a pic of the inside of my ecu. The pics I've seen aren't good news for me as it seems to be authentic...
I'm truly stumped. I don't have much car experience, but geez...any thoughts? I'll answer any questions you have as best I can.
It looks like a real one, the numbers on the bottom right will let you know.... there is a thread on how you can verify if its a gtx ecu or not.... also the bp26 ecu won't idle with n/a injectors, I tried it when I was swapping over the turbo on my 323.... what injectors did you use on the first try?
First I tried my gtx injectors. According to the numbers it's a real one from what I've read. When I first had everything hooked up it sounded like it was running on 2 cylinders so it led me to believe it was spark or injectors, but then it wouldn't start at all. Yesterday when we checked the timing marks it did seem off, which was weird because I'm 100 percent sure I had it right before we put the engine back in the car lol.. we fixed that, so I'll try the GTX injectors again and figure out if they're working or not.
The gtx ecu is picky with vacum leaks and AFM so check on those.. also check if the ecu throws any codes, there's a thread on how to get the codes on the gtx ecu.
Alright I'll check into the codes for the ecu. ^ It fires right up with my NA ecu. I also had a crappy flange/bov setup, but I'm currently getting a flange welded onto my piping for a type rs bov. It'll definitely seal a lot better! No vacuum leaks this time. haha thanks for all the advice guys
You need the GTX injectors in there if you're running the GTX ECU. Must match at least those components.
I started my car with the GTX ECU/injectors and a U code VAF right off the throttle body like an n/a car to bypass any possible vac leaks (I was also in the middle of fabricating the FMIC piping)
Well I started the car with GTX injectors and ecu but it sounded like it was running on 2 cylinders. Then on another day we went back to it and it wouldn't start...not touching anything it just wouldn't start, so I don't know. We re-checked the timing marks on the belt and apparently they were "off" even though I was 110 percent sure they were right going in. We fixed that, but we still started it on the na injectors and the na ecu...so I'm gonna get that bov fixed up and plug in the gtx ecu, and put the gtx injectors back in and see if she'll fire up again. I need to find out if the gtx injectors are bad. They shouldn't be they look nice, but looks can be deceiving. lol
Last edited by Redscortgt93; 10-04-2013, 11:13 AM.
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